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The tragedy of jointed cues

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  • #16
    Originally Posted by bonoman1970 View Post
    Ive got the solution, ........ get some coloured tape ,wrap it around the cue neatly on the balance point.......then wheeehaaay bobs yr uncle , now its a two piece , and if you cant get on with the new balance then sell it on ebay for £6,000 or something like.
    Don't really understand this post? Attempt at humour?

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    • #17
      Originally Posted by Bigmeek View Post
      Don't really understand this post? Attempt at humour?
      Some supposed former pro listed some cues on Ebay a few months ago claiming they were all used by him and they had history behind them. Anyway people noticed that there was some tape fitted around the cue to make it look like it was jointed or something along those lines, he was a bit crazy and was listing the cues for around £5000 I think. There is a thread on here somewhere about it.

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      • #18
        If done right there should be no discernable difference, I personally do not like brass or any metal on metal joints and would do it a bit different.

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        • #19
          Originally Posted by LWB View Post
          Well as far as my own cue is concerned I wanted it jointed purely for travelling purposes.

          But I'm not just talking about having a 1 piece for a while then getting it jointed. Could be a brand new cue. I wonder what the cue makers think about doing it.

          As I say it could well be something completely intangible, and not even about feel and balance. Just the point that you have this great piece of craftsmanship (I'll stop short of calling it art) then you cut in to it. So essentially the expensive woods you paid for are then separated from the rest of the cue.

          Obviously this is just my feeling on it, I'm not saying jointed cues are necessarily inferior.
          I agree with you.
          In a perfect world everyone should be playing with a one piece cue in my opinion.
          A joint is a compromise and always will be no matter how you try to get around it.
          A joint is the only removable part that provides structural integrity to the cue.
          Given the option, I would not want anything which is essential to the cue's integrity to be removable.
          With a 3/4 cue, the shaft ends at the joint, the rest is just solid wood. I personally see no reason to build a cue that way except for convenience purpose. In other words, it is a compromise.
          I am not saying 3/4 are worst than 1 piece, or that 3/4 cannot be made to play as nice as a 1 piece--just staying it is a compromise.
          Last edited by poolqjunkie; 8 June 2011, 01:40 AM.
          www.AuroraCues.com

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          • #20
            Glover cues also have a " wood to wood " invisible joint.I had a one piece jointed with the joint that Glovers use for their centre-joint cues.The male pin is only 5/16" whitworth ( 8mm) and the female is in the shaft.The male joint is long and only partially threaded.The joint is smaller than MWs joint ( I had a Black Shark,so know that this is true) and lighter, the joint itself has more "wood to wood "contact as well.I left the shaft long at nearly 49" and really I dont think there is much of a difference between when this cue was jointed or as a one piece.However,most cue builders I have spoken to say " dont cut a one piece",personally I think that as long as you dont upset the balance of the cue then why not ?

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            • #21
              wood to wood, invisable joints and all that jumbo
              ya either like a one piece jointed or not,

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              • #22
                I,ve had some lovely 3/4 cues that play just as well as the one piece i,ve had and have never had a problem with the joints .

                I see no reason why they cant play as well as a one piece .

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                • #23
                  completely agree m8

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                  • #24
                    I really enjoy playing with one piece cues and indeed own several.What I was suggesting was that a jointed cue,although a compromise,need not be a handicap.I play a lot of " pub team pool " and believe me you would not get a one piece around some of the tables I play on.My compromise is to joint low a one piece,leaving a shaft length of 48"-50",thus leaving a playable shaft length for those awkward corners you find on "pub tables".There is a working mens club I play in where there is a full size snooker table in the bar area and that can be just as bad when it is busy.If I only played in proper clubs and did not travel,I too would probably only play with a one-piece,but that would be in an ideal world and we dont live in an ideal world.

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