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  • JP Master 2 piece

    Hi Guys, Im new to this place, it seems like a great place to be with lots of snooker chat I just love it, hope it will give me the insentive to practice so that I can get a high break of 8. Anyway nice to meet you all. A friend gave me a cue to try but cant get on with it as I just cant stand the two piece joint going through on the stroke but it is a lovely cue. it is a John Parris Master 2 piece, quite old I would have thought but a nice piece of Ash. Are they worth anything as I know 2 piece cues are a bit of a dying trade now. Thinking that as I cant get on with it I may put it on ebay for him.

    Keith.

  • #2
    Joint shouldnt be near bridge hand.Try adjusting the length of your stroke and the distance of your bridge hand at address.Terry Davidson has made some interesting observations on this point on this forum.Look him up in the members list ,under Community bar (top of the page) and highlight,posts or threads.Lots of help on this forum,if you know where to look.As to two piece cues,dont worry about value,JP cues generally attract premium prices anyway,although you are correct in that fashion dictates a centre joint isnt too popular these days.

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    • #3
      Old School, thanks so much for the reply, i would love to be able to get on with it as its a really nice smooth cue but I just cant as the joint does my head in, I am playing with a one piece maple at the moment as well which makes it worse although the JP is a much better cue, I am never going to use it so will probably sell it for my mate. Thanks again.

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      • #4
        Hi gooner52, welcome to the TSF.
        As OldSchool said there is a lot of information on how to improve your game already on the various threads, look under Coaching section for these.
        As OldSchool said, the centre joint should be no where near your bridge hand, I have an old 2pc cue that I use for pool (I have had it for over 25 years) and have never had this problem.
        The bridge hand should be about 10-12" from the cue ball (the length of a A4 sheet of paper is a good indicator of that distance) if you have any more than that then your cueing action will suffer. Long bridge distance means that you have greater possibly of missing the shot due to exaggerated cue movement on the back stroke and more importantly the delivery stroke. What is the distance you are playing at the moment? I have a feeling that moving the bridge hand closer to the cue ball will probably feel very strange and you will have to change your stance to accommodate the extra reach (tip - you do not need to have your left arm absolutely straight but slightly kinked will be comfortable) but you will get used to it quite quickly. You should see a good improvement of your potting and positioning once you get used to being closer.
        All the best
        Up the TSF! :snooker:

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        • #5
          Hi dean,

          thanks for the info but it seems that maybe I have misslead you all the joint is not near my bridge hand at all I just cant stand it going under my chin and then forward as I make the stroke it really puts me off. sorry all if i did not explain myself properly.

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          • #6
            Originally Posted by gooner52 View Post
            thanks for the info but it seems that maybe I have misslead you all the joint is not near my bridge hand at all I just cant stand it going under my chin and then forward as I make the stroke it really puts me off. sorry all if i did not explain myself properly.
            I thought it may be this (after I sent the othe rposting ). Do you feel the joint on your chin? Or is it a visual annoyance.
            How long have you be trying out the cue? It can take a while to get used to a new stick.
            If it is feel, then maybe you are too heavy down on the cue? Maybe? a slight change to lift up a tad may help.
            If visual, maybe you should be concentrating on the object ball at time of feathering/delivery?
            I understand where you are coming from thought, on my old cue I have a slightly lighter patch on the shaft about 4-5" down from the tip, I know I should not notice it but sometimes it just "shouts" out at me
            Up the TSF! :snooker:

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            • #7
              "yeh" thats it Dean its a visual thing and it drives me mad, just cant get on with it so have gone back to my one piece maple and it makes so much difference, if I get a new cue which I am going to I will get a 3 quarter or another one piece, thanks so much though mate. I will see what I can get for it on Ebay and give the money to my mate not sure what sort of money that will be though.

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              • #8
                Originally Posted by gooner52 View Post
                "yeh" thats it Dean its a visual thing and it drives me mad, just cant get on with it so have gone back to my one piece maple and it makes so much difference, if I get a new cue which I am going to I will get a 3 quarter or another one piece, thanks so much though mate. I will see what I can get for it on Ebay and give the money to my mate not sure what sort of money that will be though.
                Once you get to 10 posts you will be able to attach images of the cue on here so others with more knowledge can possibly give you an indication of its value. You should also give the specs of the cue as well: shaft wood, butt wood, any splices/veneers, tip size (mm, the ferrule not the tip itself), total length (in), butt diameter (mm), weight (oz), approx balance point (in, from butt end); all these can affect the price slightly.
                Up the TSF! :snooker:

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                • #9
                  To be honest,if its a visual bug,then there isnt much you can do.If the joint disturbs your line of vision you could try focusing on only the tip at the point of impact on the cue ball (something that you should be doing anyway).I do not rest my chin on my cue so your problem would not be evident to me personally.Sorry for any misunderstanding,I do not want to be seen as preaching to the converted.Deans advice about posting j.pegs on here is a sound idea though.Good luck with the sale.

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                  • #10
                    John Parris Master cues are plain black ebony butt and machine spliced. Value not massive but the odd one reaches £150 on ebay

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for that info, yep thats the cue black ebony butt suprised at the machine splice though as I think this is an old one but it has got mini butt with it, I will see if one of the boys in the snooker team knows of anyone that maybe interested as it is a very nice cue for a player that can get on with a 2 piece. thanks everyone for your help I really appreciate it.

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