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Anyone use a lighter cue for UK 8 ball pool??

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  • Anyone use a lighter cue for UK 8 ball pool??

    Just started playing UK Pool after a 20 year break from snooker and recently purchased a new pool spec cue which I'm happy with.

    Weight is 17oz, 8.5" tip, 17" bal point and length 56" (prefer shorter cue) and I can play plenty of variety of shots but I find that very fine touch shots are sometimes difficult to judge (perhaps it's a lack of talent?) when playing with a lighter and smaller cue ball.

    I'm just curious how a cue will feel that is 14-16oz and wondered if anyone uses a cue around this weight and your thoughts?

    Unfortunately cues of that weight (and preferred length 56") don't come off the shelf so unlikely that I will be able to try one without getting a custom made which will be costly and difficult to sell on if it didn't feel right.

  • #2
    I,ve heard a few members here use around that spec for pool .

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    • #3
      I have just ordered a JP to near that spec 17.5oz length 57 so hopefully it won’t be too heavy :-)

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      • #4
        Originally Posted by sootyvrs View Post
        Just started playing UK Pool after a 20 year break from snooker and recently purchased a new pool spec cue which I'm happy with.

        Weight is 17oz, 8.5" tip, 17" bal point and length 56" (prefer shorter cue) and I can play plenty of variety of shots but I find that very fine touch shots are sometimes difficult to judge (perhaps it's a lack of talent?) when playing with a lighter and smaller cue ball.

        I'm just curious how a cue will feel that is 14-16oz and wondered if anyone uses a cue around this weight and your thoughts?

        Unfortunately cues of that weight (and preferred length 56") don't come off the shelf so unlikely that I will be able to try one without getting a custom made which will be costly and difficult to sell on if it didn't feel right.
        My cue is 58'' 18.5oz 8mm tip i did try a 16oz cue for a while but could not get on with it as i like a heavy cue.
        but with these new spotted whites coming in i can controll the white better with a heavy cue..

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        • #5
          My pool cue is 12.5 oz. Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable with anything over 16 oz. I can't really comment on the weight alone as this is the only cue i've used with this weight and it could well be a one off. Especially at 49"
          I will say though, that in these specs, cues can still be very playable even though the weight is on the low side. In 5 years of playing pool with my cue, there hasn't been one type of shot that i've struggled with, due to the reduced weight.
          I'll also be interested to see how you get on with experimenting with a cue of those specs because it'd be a shame to have a cue built, only for to discover that you don't feel comfortable with it.
          Last edited by MattCash; 23 June 2011, 12:05 PM.

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          • #6
            Wow 12.5oz is very light!!

            I might see if I can get hold of a cheap (machine spliced & used) cue that I can modify if necessary to try out and if it doesn't suit I won't cry over spending all that money!!

            I wonder if any cue makers that might have made some rejects (too light) that they might sell cheap!!??

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            • #7
              I have a few cues available.

              PM me for discussion / price

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              • #8
                My season is split into three sections (for various reasons).I have just finished playing the first 1/3 with a 3/4 cue of about 12ozs as an experiment.I totally agree with snookerloopy,there is not a shot on the table that you cannot play.My team mates just can not believe the amount of "action" that I and they (when they play with my cue) can get on the cue ball.I may have a solution for you with regards to a "custom cue being costly".ADR 147 on this forum,at about the end of February (check thread started) advertised some "Cue Craft Specials" that he had made as a batch of 5o,ebony free,pool spec,handmade cues.I bought one,14oz,57.25,8.2mm ferrule and tip,one piece.Well balanced,good grain pattern,straight,plays well.£50 Delivered,cant go wrong.ADR had one piece and 3/4 made and may still have some left.I know the length will be wrong but why not alter your grip (shorten it) instead of cutting it,until you have decided whether or not the cue is suitable.If it is not suitable, sell it in its original length.I know other forum members have purchased one of these cues and so far there have been no complaints,£50 is not a lot of money for an English,hand made cue.Why not PM ADR and see if he has any left.As to other forum members using lighter cues the answer is yes,lots of us do.ask Crispian or perpetual or any of the pool guys or anyone who uses older cues.Hope this helps.
                Last edited by old school; 23 June 2011, 04:57 PM. Reason: Measurement correction.

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                • #9
                  used to have an ash cue, 14oz, 6.1m tip. played for 20 years with it. unfortunately cant remember how it felt now as ive been using a 17oz for 2 years.
                  what i did find though was when playing the touch (havent got one) shots ive recently developed a new way for me to play the delicate one. hold the cue further up, (maybe 2 to 3inch) an just balance the cue between thumb an forefinger. i am also using a 56in cue so thats not the problem.

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                  • #10
                    Originally Posted by old school View Post
                    My season is split into three sections (for various reasons).I have just finished playing the first 1/3 with a 3/4 cue of about 12ozs as an experiment.I totally agree with snookerloopy,there is not a shot on the table that you cannot play.My team mates just can not believe the amount of "action" that I and they (when they play with my cue) can get on the cue ball.I may have a solution for you with regards to a "custom cue being costly".ADR 147 on this forum,at about the end of February (check thread started) advertised some "Cue Craft Specials" that he had made as a batch of 5o,ebony free,pool spec,handmade cues.I bought one,14oz,57.25,8.5mm ferrule and tip,one piece.Well balanced,good grain pattern,straight,plays well.£50 Delivered,cant go wrong.ADR had one piece and 3/4 made and may still have some left.I know the length will be wrong but why not alter your grip (shorten it) instead of cutting it,until you have decided whether or not the cue is suitable.If it is not suitable, sell it in its original length.I know other forum members have purchased one of these cues and so far there have been no complaints,£50 is not a lot of money for an English,hand made cue.Why not PM ADR and see if he has any left.As to other forum members using lighter cues the answer is yes,lots of us do.ask Crispian or perpetual or any of the pool guys or anyone who uses older cues.Hope this helps.
                    old
                    think (an i dont know scientically) the reason yer get so much action is because such a light weight will be propelled into the cue ball quicker. (its like an austin maxi engine into a metro) i use a lighter cue for my breaking cue now, it just seems to work, maybe the scientists on here will know if its correct by thats what ive found.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally Posted by old school View Post
                      My team mates just can not believe the amount of "action" that I and they (when they play with my cue) can get on the cue ball.
                      Lol, I know what you mean mate, at times the amount spin thats possible is ridiculous. To be fair though, its not all down to the cue

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally Posted by old school View Post
                        My season is split into three sections (for various reasons).I have just finished playing the first 1/3 with a 3/4 cue of about 12ozs as an experiment.I totally agree with snookerloopy,there is not a shot on the table that you cannot play.My team mates just can not believe the amount of "action" that I and they (when they play with my cue) can get on the cue ball.I may have a solution for you with regards to a "custom cue being costly".ADR 147 on this forum,at about the end of February (check thread started) advertised some "Cue Craft Specials" that he had made as a batch of 5o,ebony free,pool spec,handmade cues.I bought one,14oz,57.25,8.5mm ferrule and tip,one piece.Well balanced,good grain pattern,straight,plays well.£50 Delivered,cant go wrong.ADR had one piece and 3/4 made and may still have some left.I know the length will be wrong but why not alter your grip (shorten it) instead of cutting it,until you have decided whether or not the cue is suitable.If it is not suitable, sell it in its original length.I know other forum members have purchased one of these cues and so far there have been no complaints,£50 is not a lot of money for an English,hand made cue.Why not PM ADR and see if he has any left.As to other forum members using lighter cues the answer is yes,lots of us do.ask Crispian or perpetual or any of the pool guys or anyone who uses older cues.Hope this helps.
                        Thanks

                        I have sent ADR a PM so perhaps worth a try if he has any left.

                        Can I ask if you have now decided to use the ADR 14oz cue or gone back to the 12oz cue?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have played most comfortably with lighter cues, and have had cues around the 14oz mark, as already stated you can play all the shots, so it is just what feels right for you.
                          as for the weight i was told it is due to fast hands ? i could breack better with a lighter cue also !

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                          • #14
                            Originally Posted by hatterboard View Post
                            old
                            think (an i dont know scientically) the reason yer get so much action is because such a light weight will be propelled into the cue ball quicker. (its like an austin maxi engine into a metro) i use a lighter cue for my breaking cue now, it just seems to work, maybe the scientists on here will know if its correct by thats what ive found.
                            Well.. I am not a scientist but I can still remember some of my high school physics. And this web site is really useful:
                            http://www.ajdesigner.com/index_physics.php

                            1. Start with F = M x A. F = force of arm, M = mass of cue, to give A, acceleration of each cue.
                            2. Take D distance, and A acceleration and find the max V velocity of each cue. Not sure of the formula here.
                            3. Then K = 1/2 (Mass x Velocity^2). K is kinetic energy, the more energy you have in the cue, the more you can transfer to the ball. The total energy is 1/2 of the Mass multiplied by the velocity squared. Note, velocity squared is the interesting part, meaning increased velocity has the most effect on the kinetic energy here.
                            4. The next step is to take those values of K and find a formula for calculating the amount of K transferred to the white, it will probably depend on the mass of the cue again, and would favour the heavier cue.. this may bring things back level again.

                            Thinking about it, one of the basic rules in physics is that you cannot 'get something for nothing' or 'create something out of nothing' and given the only input force is your arm, and it's the same with all cues, this probably hints that they should be the same regardless. But, there are probably hundreds of variables which account for how well that energy is transferred from your arm to the white ball and how much is lost as sound, heat, compression of the tip, etc in the process.
                            "Do unto others 20% better than you would expect them to do unto you, to correct for subjective error"
                            - Linus Pauling

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally Posted by nrage View Post
                              well.. I am not a scientist but i can still remember some of my high school physics. And this web site is really useful:
                              http://www.ajdesigner.com/index_physics.php

                              1. Start with f = m x a. F = force of arm, m = mass of cue, to give a, acceleration of each cue.
                              2. Take d distance, and a acceleration and find the max v velocity of each cue. Not sure of the formula here.
                              3. Then k = 1/2 (mass x velocity^2). K is kinetic energy, the more energy you have in the cue, the more you can transfer to the ball. The total energy is 1/2 of the mass multiplied by the velocity squared. Note, velocity squared is the interesting part, meaning increased velocity has the most effect on the kinetic energy here.
                              4. The next step is to take those values of k and find a formula for calculating the amount of k transferred to the white, it will probably depend on the mass of the cue again, and would favour the heavier cue.. This may bring things back level again.

                              Thinking about it, one of the basic rules in physics is that you cannot 'get something for nothing' or 'create something out of nothing' and given the only input force is your arm, and it's the same with all cues, this probably hints that they should be the same regardless. But, there are probably hundreds of variables which account for how well that energy is transferred from your arm to the white ball and how much is lost as sound, heat, compression of the tip, etc in the process.
                              yes pretty mutch what we all thought ?

                              Comment

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