Originally Posted by jaffa.johnson
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Anyone use a lighter cue for UK 8 ball pool??
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Just another update:
I received a 15oz cuecraft ebony free cue from ADR and was surprised how whippy the cue is compared to my regular cue.
I decided to get it trimmed down a couple of inches to 55" so the tip is now 8.5mm instead of around 8mm which has helped a little with the flex in the shaft and also have a MW super tip fitted.
Early impressions are that the weight feels great when getting down to the shot and feathering is a much more natural. When in amongst the balls, touch shots are very easy to judge so all in all I'm pleased with this gain in feel.
What I have lost out on now compared to my 17oz cue is I'm struggling to deep screw back from distance (not a problem with other cue with Talisman M tip). I'm not sure if this might be a problem with losing 2oz's or perhaps the whippyness of the cue? I'm assuming the MW pressed tip is as grippy as the Talisman M for spin.
All in all I've gained in one area and lost out in another. I'm going to play some more with the 15oz cue before making a decision to perhaps remove weight in my std. cue.
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Perhaps you have less grip with the MW tip.Are you comparing like for like i.e. tip size is identical,weght and balance point are similar (if not identical). I ask because if length,weight and balance point are too dissimilar then your timing may be out.This is not meant as a criticism but timing and " playing through" the cue ball are important when you are trying to play any screw shot.Anyone can put a cue and object ball 2" apart and screw back 18"-36" or more on a pool table,but if you are potting at 60"-70" away and trying to screw back any sort of distance ,e.g.back to baulk, a 1 7/8" lightweight pool ball then timing and technique is more important.One other thing to bear in mind is that,as far as I know MW Supertip are pressed tips and Talisman are 3 layer tips and Talisman Ms are quite a hard tip as well.The flex in the shaft may also be a factor for you as you may take time adjusting to the differences between your old and new cues.I am however glad that you are "warming" to the pleasure and fun that can be had from "lightweight cues" and welcome to "The Club", from 8 ball fanatics everywhere !!!!
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You could be right re. timing. I'm still getting used to it as i'm only using the cue in practice (on my own) and it's probably not helping that I'm reverting back to my regular cue for my competitive matches which I've had 3 this week where I don't want to risk using a new cue that i'm not 100% with.
The tip size is the same for both cues but my regular cue is 1" longer but I do hold it further in by approx. 1" so I would say the length over bridge hand is the same. The balance point on the lightweight cue is 14" compared to 17" of the 17oz cue.
Perhaps I should make it clear that with the lightweight cue i can still screw back full length of the table (pool) from a reasonable distance but for the same effort my other cue will probably come back 50% further so perhaps it's just something that I need to get used to a bit more.
As mentioned earlier, this cue was a cheap'ish experiment which is why I asked for a cheaper MW pressed tip but I suppose it's only £2.50 more for the Talisman albeit "double" the cost sounds so much more lol
Going down the club tonight to play some real players with it so will see how I get on with it....
If I really warm to the weight I think I will get some weight took out from my regular cue.
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I know it is slightly defeating the object ,but how about putting 1oz of lead tape on to the shaft to move the balance point further forward.The weight would be 16oz ( still lighter than your original cue) and with a balance point closer to say 15"-16" perhaps your timing will improve.I personally think that forward weighted cues make it easier to play screw shots,but then I have played with cues with 12" & 15" balance points, so perhaps my idea of forward weighted is different from the norm.If you have tried this experiment and your screw shots improve then perhaps all you need to do is change the balance point from 14" and re-weight the cue to regain "feel".Just a thought and good luck.
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Thanks old school but you're right about defeating the object...
I do think you are right regarding screw back using a cue with a more forward balance. It was one of the reasons I got the cue trimmed down to 55" so that I hold the cue near the end as the balance point is too far back.
Anyhow just returned from the club where I played most of the club league players and won 95% of my games with it so I'm pleased so far. If I keep enjoying it I think I will get in contact with cue maker for another lightweight butt made up for my other cue at least that way I have an option to go back to original if it doesn't work out.
Thanks everyone who contributed to this thread
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Hi all players n fellow billiard brothers - As far as lighter playing cues go - I use to own a J Ashcroft & sons from Liverpool 14oz maple and rose wood splice with a 9 mm Bllie diamond classic tip and the balance was well off as it had a billet of iron or some metal inserted into the bottom which made the tip end point up off my hand so I started using the closed bridge hand which the Americans use to hold it down in place solid - great cue - spin out of this world as if get the white ball spinning just as I hit the white slowly to defy the laws of physics under gravity and it was a great weight to break to like minnetsota fats - tons of top spin on breaks n I rarely had dry breaks - bit going even further - I played in a classic uk pub that had a chimney wall in the way - so a rest got cut to 3ft tall and the owners got 1 x 14mm cheap plastic slip on tip to glue n hammer onto the end of the old X rest and it was only 7oz and I can honestly say it’s the best cue I’ve ever used in my life believe it or not ! Somewhere on cue rules - you can not use a cue that’s less than 3ft - why -? Because it’s a true 1 piece solid cue with a solid tip even though it was only a 50p white plastic tip with a scrap piece of leather that was just a circle piece flat n wasn’t shaped with a file too - it was shaped naturally just with people playing with it - I used to get told off after breaking with this ultra lightweight cue made of ramin wood - just a pool table rest that comes with the table converted into a wall cue because everyone in the pub used to jump up with shock after breaking with it ! 3ft bce rest converted into a wall cue because the chimney wal was in the way - I’ve played with just about every cue certainly in the uk an I can say this cue was without a shadow of a doubt the best cue I’d ever used and I was the only petson that could play all round with it using an open and closed bridge aswell as clasping the cue to the sides when the white ball was close to a cushion - I never looked back and made my own version but made of Birds Eye maple but with a different tip that’s 3ft 7.5” tall n weighs 10oz , polished with my own homemade beeswax too an it’s got a fat 14mm tip filed down to 13.5 mm tip as my ferrule is 13.5mm too - hope this helps n sorry it’s long winded - sorry billiard brothers but it’s good knowledge- another thing why do Americans play with there break cues ? Cus they are solid - isacc newtons 3rd law of motion - for every action there is an equal or opposite reaction. These small solid 1 piece cues can take the shock and vibrations from harder shots like break shots etc
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If your thinking of changing cues - if you can try n get a billet of solid shock absorbing dense hickory wood that’s dense & light weight - use a solid ferrule like flat phenolic resin with a good soft top tip that won’t mushroom on you - that’s key to getting the best tips too - as soft as you can get without it losing its shape like the good old Brunswick blue diamond chalk infused tips made in length from the floor to the middle of your rib cage n ull have a true solid 1 piece cue ! ( NOT SPLICED AT ALL TOO ) Hopefully you or a mad uncles got an old wood lathe in his garage so you can make your own cue like I did but I made mine based off that wall test converted into a wall cue but I had no lathe - no plain - no rasp - nothing bar sandpaper from 80 grit right up to 8000 polishing grit and I’lll never make a true hand made cue ever again in my life as it took me about 4 months sanding a block of lovely maple ! Off my bucket list anyway 😂 so hard to get that cue finished but well worth it ! Hope this info helps ?
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Sorry last tip pardon the silly pun - don’t use ash wood ! Stephen Henrietta on YouTube hates ash n only uses maple cues and doesn’t understand why people use ash cues are the wood isn’t too dense - it does the job but maple is much more dense to take the impact of your shots - we all know why players use ash cues- for the grain n arrows in the grain , but it’s trash to actually help your game - I hate it - an fancy inlays of pearl etc won’t help you play better either as inlays do nothing to absorb shock from shots see - I’m gone 🙏🤐
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You’ll probably think I’m lying or talking absolute rubbish about a 3ft/36” converted 42 or 46” rest but I’ve no reason to lie - all about playing pool and trying to defy the laws of physics under gravity aswell as using mathematics and everything you can to your advantage like cheating pockets to get better angles etc - get a good solid 1 piece bat / cue n ull never look back - my older friend who taught me how to play just by giving me the basic fundamentals of the game n spin on the white said you can play with a mopstick if you need too - building confidence butt 1 day in the pub 2 people had a bet that I could beat another good player with the round end of a mop stick for a laugh and I won n made it work for me - being able to adapt is key too as a lot of pro players that lose there cues in luggage or break there cues are never the same as they get to used to use no the same old cue - hence they say I can’t play with out my cue etc - bad way to think see - anyway hope this helps if you ever see it in 2025 😂 talking to myself here ?
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