Anyone use a lighter cue for UK 8 ball pool??

[sanman]

Well.. I am not a scientist but I can still remember some of my high school physics. And this web site is really useful:
http://www.ajdesigner.com/index_physics.php

1. Start with F = M x A. F = force of arm, M = mass of cue, to give A, acceleration of each cue.
2. Take D distance, and A acceleration and find the max V velocity of each cue. Not sure of the formula here.
3. Then K = 1/2 (Mass x Velocity^2). K is kinetic energy, the more energy you have in the cue, the more you can transfer to the ball. The total energy is 1/2 of the Mass multiplied by the velocity squared. Note, velocity squared is the interesting part, meaning increased velocity has the most effect on the kinetic energy here.
4. The next step is to take those values of K and find a formula for calculating the amount of K transferred to the white, it will probably depend on the mass of the cue again, and would favour the heavier cue.. this may bring things back level again.

Thinking about it, one of the basic rules in physics is that you cannot 'get something for nothing' or 'create something out of nothing' and given the only input force is your arm, and it's the same with all cues, this probably hints that they should be the same regardless. But, there are probably hundreds of variables which account for how well that energy is transferred from your arm to the white ball and how much is lost as sound, heat, compression of the tip, etc in the process.

The first formula is most important. the Force is directly proprtionate to the mass times acceleration. Mass of the cue is constant. Acceleration would come from the contact between your cueball and cue tip. The longer the posssible contact the more the spin. very much like a longer gun barrel means a higher bullet velocity because the expanding gases being in contact with the bullet for a longer time.

[nrage]

The first formula is most important. the Force is directly proprtionate to the mass times acceleration. Mass of the cue is constant. Acceleration would come from the contact between your cueball and cue tip. The longer the posssible contact the more the spin. very much like a longer gun barrel means a higher bullet velocity because the expanding gases being in contact with the bullet for a longer time.

I was thinking of how the first formula applies to the cue itself to determine the acceleration, the impact with the white ball doesn't come into it until step 4 in my original post. At step 4 you have the kinetic energy built up in the cue, and like you say, plus additional force added by direct contact/continuing to push the cue through the white.

I would guess that a softer tip would allow for a longer contact time, but perhaps you also loose some energy compacting the tip.. hmm.

[sanman]

I was thinking of how the first formula applies to the cue itself to determine the acceleration, the impact with the white ball doesn't come into it until step 4 in my original post. At step 4 you have the kinetic energy built up in the cue, and like you say, plus additional force added by direct contact/continuing to push the cue through the white.

I would guess that a softer tip would allow for a longer contact time, but perhaps you also loose some energy compacting the tip.. hmm.

There could be varies other factors influencing it. Tip is one etc Remember the mass of the cue is constant. Therefor the only other variable in that equation is acceleration. Cue action, tip and a lot of other things may then give better accelration which would impart more of the kinetic energy to the cueball allowing for better spin.

[old school]

Surely we can test this.Two cues,same length,same taper, same construction,same timbers used,same tip size and make (tip size is the same because of "stilletto heel" effect).Different weight , say 14oz and 19oz.Heavy cue and light cue moving at the same speed over the same distance (bridge hand on baulk line for example),heavy cue must hit with more force,surely.The trick is knowing how to vary force used to get the desired effect on the cue ball and object ball.A lighter cue ,to me,is all about touch and feel which is subjective I know,but good cueing can compensate with a heavier cue.I own cues from 21oz to about 12oz and play with them all.I challenge myself to acheive the same result (to my satisfaction) with whatever weight I happen to be using at the time,its fun and passes the time of day.What it can also do is give you a wider experience base in your game.I know consistency and accuracy is what most cueists strive for but sometimes it takes the "fun" or "surprise" element out of the game and dont you sometimes find that repetitive drills and constant practice does occasionally get boring,so why not "let loose" once in a while ???

[nrage]

There could be varies other factors influencing it. Tip is one etc Remember the mass of the cue is constant. Therefor the only other variable in that equation is acceleration. Cue action, tip and a lot of other things may then give better accelration which would impart more of the kinetic energy to the cueball allowing for better spin.

I can't see how the tip affects acceleration myself.

The force is also a variable, I see it as:
- Mass of the cue is constant.
- Force applied by the person/arm is not constant, but is reasonably consistent and has a physical limit based on the persons strength.
- So, acceleration is not constant, but is reasonably consistent.

That said, the main influencing factors on a screw (in order of importance) are:

#1 - where you hit the white, most people do not hit the white where they think they hit the white, this is the biggest factor.

#2 - whether you follow through, or decelerate before striking the white. Many people decelerate without knowing it, they snatch at the shot instead of driving it right into their chest.

When talking about acceleration etc we're talking about #2. #1 is still more important. And the other considerations like type of tip, softness of tip, roundness of tip, type of chalk, etc all have very minor effects in comparison to those 2 above.

That said, a badly shaped tip can limit how low you can get (#1) so the factors are inter-related.

[willtyson]

I personally like a heavy cue for pool my specs: 18oz 8.5mm tip 58". Love my cue :snooker:

[old school]

Sootyvrs ,yes I still use the cue I got from ADR,but it does not stop me experimenting and having fun along the way.At the moment I have gone the other way and I am playing with a 20yr old JP Special.That cue is about 18oz and I have re-tapered the ferrule from 9.25 to about a 8.9mm but left the shaft the same (stilletto heel experiment) so tip size has been reduced by just over .30 mm.I am lucky to posess and play with many cues and basically "whatever yanks my chain" at the time I will go with it.

[ADR147]

me - actually most pool players ask for about 14-17oz 8-8.5mm and 56-57" i have a number of specially made cue craft ones somewhere.

[old school]

Too late Andrew,I posted on the first page of this thread,recommending your cues and he has already PMd you.Now about that pint,you owe me !!!!

[ADR147]

Too late Andrew,I posted on the first page of this thread,recommending your cues and he has already PMd you.Now about that pint,you owe me !!!!

1/2 pint!

[jaffa.johnson]

1/2 pint!

If half a pint is on offer for recommending u and getting u a pm! Me and you could get on very well lol!

[jaffa.johnson]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Old-handsplice...item20ba872a76

check out this seller, he selling loads of light old cues are sure he had a 14oz riley up a few weeks ago.

[old school]

Glendronach 1968 , 25yr old then,please.

[cuebru]

cue lite for me

Think you will like trying a lite cue. I've been using an eighteen for a long time but always struggle on the softer shots so finally dug out an old 14oz brunswick (about 75yrs old). So far I'm really enjoying it and with that lite weight my cuing arm feels more relaxed allowing me to deliver a smoother shot and finally am not over hitting the ball but can still produce all the force when needed.
To add to F=ma, acceleration is determined by the muscle, not the strength of it but its ability to contract fast.
I think I might hav developed a new problem, because of the ability to accelerate faster with a liter cue I hav been getting little burn stings on the chin from the friction heat.
Hopefully you'll try some lite cues maybe just off the rack to see if that's what you want. This old cue I'm using now was probably the least popular stick in the poolroom because of its weight. I remember trying it about 50yrs ago when starting the pool game and was turned off of lite sticks and played with 18 or 19oz ever since until now. So fortunately this old 14oz is in like new condition and perfectly strait which I now enjoy using.

[sootyvrs]

Thought I'd give an update on this thread.

I've ordered a 15oz cue from ADR which should be with me shortly but before I started this thread I ordered a couple of additional short butts (6" & 11") to be made for my current cue that fit onto the shaft of my 3/4 cue (which has 16" butt) for the times when there is restricted space which some pubs have.

I tested the 11" butt yesterday and today and I played fantastic!! I weighed the cue with this short butt and it's 14oz (compared to 17oz) and although it now only measures 51" total the feel with touch shots amazes and now have much more control of the cue ball!

It's a touch short for me but I think I may now prefer an even shorter cue for UK Pool, perhaps 53" may be perfect so might order up another butt at 13" and ensure the weight is similar or perhaps an ounce heavier at most.

I will wait to try out ADR's cue and will get it trimmed down I think and if I like it perhaps will keep it as a spare cue (suspect no demand for a 53" cue)

Will keep you all updated. Thanks again for all who have helped