How I remove varnish from my cue to make it smooth

[SuperD123]

I recently bought a new cue through Riley but at times its just way too sticky with the varnish that's on it.

I've heard I need to use 1000 grit sandpaper and then use Linseed Oil.

I have a few questions:

1) Is this the right stuff I'm buying?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/GM-Linseed-O...0236963&sr=8-1

2) How do I apply it? Do I leave it overnight or rub it off straight away?

3) Do i need to remove all the varnish or just most of it? How will I know that I've taken enough off.

4) Finally, In the long run, will it improve my game?

Thanks,
Darren

[ADR147]

this job is not as easy as you might think - you may need grain filler and its raw linseed oil you use.

[poolqjunkie]

Plus you may not like what you see under the varnish.

[ADR147]

Plus you may not like what you see under the varnish.

that's a real risk i should have said that as well!

[kennethkoo]

I have seen many varnish removed cues in my club and I have to say the splices on the butt without varnish doesn't look very appealing. Will oiling give it a little shine? I know it will not be as shiny as varnish but will it be better?

[trains]

Just use light sandpaper til any shine of varnish is removed.
I put Linseed oil on a cue but probably didnt apply it very smoothly as it still cut my hand.I then sandpapered the shine of the oil off and have spent hours playing with it with no problem,I guess if the oil doesnt immerse smoothly into the cue your better off without it and I'd happily go without but if you apply oil just do a better job than I did.

[kennethkoo]

I just got the varnish on my cue removed this afternoon. Apart from the rather dull looking butt, it plays very well. No more hand washing between frames. Was contemplating with the sanding but I'm glad I did it.

I was told that after reoiling the cue, a light sanding using very fine sandpaper. If not the cue will be tacky. Is this true?

[trains]

I was told that after reoiling the cue, a light sanding using very fine sandpaper. If not the cue will be tacky. Is this true?

If I saw any shine on your cue I would fine sandpaper it off until there's no shine,I've found the shine invites cutting of your bridge hand,but obviously its your choice.

[DeanH]

I was told that after reoiling the cue, a light sanding using very fine sandpaper. If not the cue will be tacky. Is this true?

No sanding after oiling unless the oiling brought out roughness in the wood (very rare occassions or this could be grain-filler missing and sanding will not help this situation).
After oiling, only buff with dry soft cotton cloth, or if tacky (probably due to applying too much oil and not wiping off the excess before allowing to dry) use some paper tissue and buff vigourously, then buff with cloth.

[DeanH]

If I saw any shine on your cue I would fine sandpaper it off until there's no shine,I've found the shine invites cutting of your bridge hand,but obviously its your choice.

How does a shine invite cutting of the bridge hand?
If the oiling is done properly, i.e. not too much raw linseed oil applied (a very small amount goes a very long way), apply to the whole cue, wipe with a dry cloth/paper towel to remove any excess and to ensure smooth consistent coverage, allow to dry and cure (usually overnight for a good result, buff with dry cotton cloth. If tacky, use paper tissue/towel to buff the cue to remive the tackiness.
The resulting shine should be lovely to look at and not too "sharp" to cut the skin! :rollingeyes:
Never leave a cue without a protective covering, whether that be oil, wax, varnish, the exposed wood will only get dirty from chalk, sweat, and dust.

[jrc750]

I think he meant "shine" as in varnish shine ?
I guess you meant to say "without" in your last sentance ??

[DeanH]

a "cutting shine" from either oil or varnish - I have not come across, maybe he is referring to varnish and a tacky varnish that drags the skin?

[trains]

a "cutting shine" from either oil or varnish - I have not come across, maybe he is referring to varnish and a tacky varnish that drags the skin?

It was shine from almost certainly a too crude a job of oiling with no additional attention,cutting of my bridge hands happened so much over the last 10-15 years I'd light sandpaper anything in a heartbeat if I felt it might cut or drag so to his question yes I would carefully light sandpaper if it felt tacky and it wouldnt do his cue any harm at all.

[DeanH]

It was shine from almost certainly a too crude a job of oiling with no additional attention,cutting of my bridge hands happened so much over the last 10-15 years I'd light sandpaper anything in a heartbeat if I felt it might cut or drag so to his question yes I would carefully light sandpaper if it felt tacky and it wouldnt do his cue any harm at all.

If it was a bad oiling, I would lightly sand this back, then do a good oil as described before.
I have never had a cue cut my bridge hand in the 30+ years playing snooker and pool (if we are banding numbers about ).
I can imagine that a shaft that has no protective layer (wax, oil or varnish) because of repeated sanding would become plain wood that would not feel nice to the skin and could cause rubbing, etc. <shrug>
I remember years ago a player down our local pub who constantly use a fine sandpaper on his cue, instead of just using a cloth.
I watched him and he would carefully wrap the piece of sandpaper onto the shaft making sure not to have it on the ferrule, then clamp his fingers and thumb onto the paper (grip of death!) then run down the shaft a few times, then go and play.
You will not be surprised to hear that he had a "wonderful" hour-glass figure, just under the ferrule!

[trains]

Cheers m8,if I needed a reminder that wee piece of fine sandpaper is a fixture with me now,the answers an oil paper combo for me