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How I remove varnish from my cue to make it smooth

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  • #16
    How the heck can a shiny cue cut you? Never heard so much rot!

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    • #17
      Originally Posted by Acrowot View Post
      How the heck can a shiny cue cut you?
      Maybe with its dazzling wit!
      Up the TSF! :snooker:

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      • #18
        Originally Posted by Acrowot View Post
        How the heck can a shiny cue cut you? Never heard so much rot!

        soundfs like someones shoved a razor blade in his cue and its the sharp edge thats shining

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        • #19
          Originally Posted by Acrowot View Post
          How the heck can a shiny cue cut you? Never heard so much rot!
          Bout 3 weeks back I played with a cue I just oiled and it cut my bridge hand,upon inspection holding it up to the light there was traces of shine from what I guess was my amateur oil job.
          I've since fine sandpapered it and played with it for about 10 hours with no problem.Happy as Larry.
          Hagman without the wad.

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          • #20
            Originally Posted by trains View Post
            Bout 3 weeks back I played with a cue I just oiled and it cut my bridge hand,upon inspection holding it up to the light there was traces of shine from what I guess was my amateur oil job.
            I've since fine sandpapered it and played with it for about 10 hours with no problem.Happy as Larry.
            Hagman without the wad.
            "traces of shine" - what this could be (and I stress could and this is my guess) are pieces of dried raw linseed oil, usually from the top of the bottle, getting onto the paper towel or cloth you used to apply the oil to the cue, and being left on the cue getting stuck there when drying.
            To ensure I do not transfer these dried bits, I use kitchen paper towel folded several times, tip the bottle not long but enough to get oil through a layer or two (not all the way though), then unfold the paper towel back on itself so the bits are "inside" the folds and clean oil is available to apply.
            What may also have happened is when you applied the oil and bits, you did not wipe the cue with a clean paper towel to remove the excess oil and any bits left, as well as a close inspection before leaving to dry.
            Yes, if these bits were left on the cue and dried in, you would need to sand these with a very fine grit, making sure you do not "focus" the sanding to a specific area too much, then when all gone and smooth reapply a very light coat of clean oil.
            Up the TSF! :snooker:

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            • #21
              Have never, ever touched a cue of mine with sandpaper, only on the tip. But a bloke I played with a couple of weeks ago, had tried to get the varnish off his and what a bloody mess he had made of it. He showed me the sandpaper he used, and the only place I would have used it was on an old piece of rough timber. I took his cue home with me and got the rest of the varnish off and slightly tried to get some of the flats off the top end of the cue, that he had made. Could not take more off, or the cue would have been like a needle. Then I used the mix that the man from Newark (forget his name) gave to a lot of us to try out, to put a finish on this cue. The "stuff" was very hard but in the end, I managed to get some on this cue and after several applications, the cue was much better and the bloke who owned the cue was very happy.

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              • #22
                Originally Posted by DeanH View Post
                "traces of shine" - what this could be (and I stress could and this is my guess) are pieces of dried raw linseed oil, usually from the top of the bottle, getting onto the paper towel or cloth you used to apply the oil to the cue, and being left on the cue getting stuck there when drying.
                To ensure I do not transfer these dried bits, I use kitchen paper towel folded several times, tip the bottle not long but enough to get oil through a layer or two (not all the way though), then unfold the paper towel back on itself so the bits are "inside" the folds and clean oil is available to apply.
                What may also have happened is when you applied the oil and bits, you did not wipe the cue with a clean paper towel to remove the excess oil and any bits left, as well as a close inspection before leaving to dry.
                Yes, if these bits were left on the cue and dried in, you would need to sand these with a very fine grit, making sure you do not "focus" the sanding to a specific area too much, then when all gone and smooth reapply a very light coat of clean oil.
                I'll refer to this on any further try,cheers.

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