Linseed oiled my cue, now it's tacky.

[damienlch]

Good answer, just like my house

Haha, found a dodgy old swiss roll in the fridge... now is that frosting on the cake or what? better not risk it...

[poolqjunkie]

Haha, found a dodgy old swiss roll in the fridge... now is that frosting on the cake or what? better not risk it...

Well, better not waste it. LOL

[Bulkie]

I just had the same problem with a cue I just got from ADR147. After wiping it down a few times with a damp then dry soft cloth with no success I took some paper towel (kitchen roll in UK) and put a dab of liquid soap on it then soaked it and worked the soap into the paper and then wiped down the shaft and butt really well.

After that I took another paper towel soaked in water and used that to remove the soap film and then wiped the cue down with a damp then dry cloth as I normally do. Really worked the soft dry cloth until the shaft got a little warm.

Problem solved and the stickiness hasn't come back yet

Terry

I've done exactly as Terry suggested and it worked wonders.

Replaced the kitchen roll with hand wipes. (similar type paper anyway)

[deant1982]

I've done exactly as Terry suggested and it worked wonders.

Replaced the kitchen roll with hand wipes. (similar type paper anyway)

I just had the same problem with a cue I just got from ADR147. After wiping it down a few times with a damp then dry soft cloth with no success I took some paper towel (kitchen roll in UK) and put a dab of liquid soap on it then soaked it and worked the soap into the paper and then wiped down the shaft and butt really well.

After that I took another paper towel soaked in water and used that to remove the soap film and then wiped the cue down with a damp then dry cloth as I normally do. Really worked the soft dry cloth until the shaft got a little warm.

Problem solved and the stickiness hasn't come back yet

Terry

I do appreciate the advice. My big concern is putting anything wet near the cue. I'm not thinking damp, but actually wet. I'm a bit too concerned that the moisture will warp the cue. I have only ever wiped it with a damp cloth once, and it did nothing for the cue, so won't bother again. Normally, just a dry cloth does perfect.
I did also realise I has a patch of superglue on the shaft, as there has been a patch which has been "rubbing" on my bridge for a long time (long before I oiled the cue). The only thing I can think it could be is glue from re-tipping, so having looked through the threads, I got some acetone nail varnish remover, and gave the cue a good, overall wipe with that last night. I have also put another coat of Linseed oil on, as it is still taking it. I'm wondering, if this is given longer to fully cure, will it take the "tackiness" from the ther layer as well, or have I really buggered it??
Again. thanks for any advise (except any saying use sandpaper. Sorry, but that is ridiculous, and will never happen!)

[jay_j]

I do appreciate the advice. My big concern is putting anything wet near the cue. I'm not thinking damp, but actually wet. I'm a bit too concerned that the moisture will warp the cue. I have only ever wiped it with a damp cloth once, and it did nothing for the cue, so won't bother again. Normally, just a dry cloth does perfect.
I did also realise I has a patch of superglue on the shaft, as there has been a patch which has been "rubbing" on my bridge for a long time (long before I oiled the cue). The only thing I can think it could be is glue from re-tipping, so having looked through the threads, I got some acetone nail varnish remover, and gave the cue a good, overall wipe with that last night. I have also put another coat of Linseed oil on, as it is still taking it. I'm wondering, if this is given longer to fully cure, will it take the "tackiness" from the ther layer as well, or have I really buggered it??
Again. thanks for any advise (except any saying use sandpaper. Sorry, but that is ridiculous, and will never happen!)

i know u don't want to use sandpaper but i used some 3000 grit wet & dry with the airins cue old on it and it worked amazing just like he said it would i wouldn't use sand paper ether but the 3000 with oil u can rub over your hand and not even feel its so fine

[poolqjunkie]

I would agree with what Jay said here. By the way, after you wipe your cue with acetone did it still feel tacky?

[deant1982]

I would agree with what Jay said here. By the way, after you wipe your cue with acetone did it still feel tacky?

While I do appreciate the advise, I will never put sandpaper/wet and dry to my cue, irrespective of grade. There are always other methods, it is just a case of finding them.
PQJ, after using the acetone on the cue, it didn't feel tacky, but was it was dampish due to the acetone being rubbed all over the cue. Having thought about it now, I'm starting to worry it might penetrate the butt and start breaking down the glue holding the splicings on. Oh dear......
I did immediately wipe off all excess with kitchen roll after giving it an all over rub with the acetone, then after a few minutes, I applied another coat of Linseed oil and have left to cure. I'm thinking a few days at least for this to go off, then see how I get on...

[poolqjunkie]

I think you are fine, just make sure you do not use too much oil. After the oil is dried buff your cue up real well with a clean dry towel. The buffing really helps the oil to cure.
Use a good cue oil such as MW cue oil or raw linseed oil diluted that with some turpentine or mineral spirit to help the oil to penerate into the wood. You can do what Jay said, which is to wet sand with oil with very fine sand paper. This wet sanding can also help to seal your wood, making your cue smoother.
You really do not need many coats.

[andy carson]

one thing i did with mine when it felt too tacky after oiling...

a very very small amount of talcum powder on kitchen paper... now its smoother and drier than a smooth dry thing...

[deant1982]

one thing i did with mine when it felt too tacky after oiling...

a very very small amount of talcum powder on kitchen paper... now its smoother and drier than a smooth dry thing...

For years I have always used a small amount of talc on my cloth, and rubbed it in well to the cue/bridge. Always well away from the table, and after rubbing it in, I then wiped the cue with the non talc'd side of the towel to ensure any that could come off did so away from the table. I am wondering if this has helped contribute to the overall stickyness the cue was in before this, and is possibly creating an unseen "paste" type coating when mixed with the oil?? (ala Ross and his leather trousers in friends)...

[andy carson]

For years I have always used a small amount of talc on my cloth, and rubbed it in well to the cue/bridge. Always well away from the table, and after rubbing it in, I then wiped the cue with the non talc'd side of the towel to ensure any that could come off did so away from the table. I am wondering if this has helped contribute to the overall stickyness the cue was in before this, and is possibly creating an unseen "paste" type coating when mixed with the oil?? (ala Ross and his leather trousers in friends)...

could be i suppose... what i did do though was wait for the oil to dry and wiped off the left overs, then talc'ed it and buffed up after that... (johnsons baby powder was what i used -the kind and gentle stuff )

[poolqjunkie]

For years I have always used a small amount of talc on my cloth, and rubbed it in well to the cue/bridge. Always well away from the table, and after rubbing it in, I then wiped the cue with the non talc'd side of the towel to ensure any that could come off did so away from the table. I am wondering if this has helped contribute to the overall stickyness the cue was in before this, and is possibly creating an unseen "paste" type coating when mixed with the oil?? (ala Ross and his leather trousers in friends)...

I think with acetone your cue surface is likely quite clean and smooth now. As long as you do not do too much to your cue it should be fine. If you apply too many coats of oil you can make it sticky again. Also, wax, shellac and that kind of stuff can make the shaft sticky.
I do not recommend using silicon product on your cue as the silicon will form a film on the surface which might feel smooth for a while but is very hard to get off. I do not know if baby powder contains silicon. I know those furniture spray like Pledge contain it and just in case you want to try it, I would recommend to stay away from it.
Any picture of your cue?:-)

[andy carson]

I think with acetone your cue surface is likely quite clean and smooth now. As long as you do not do too much to your cue it should be fine. If you apply too many coats of oil you can make it sticky again. Also, wax, shellac and that kind of stuff can make the shaft sticky.
I do not recommend using silicon product on your cue as the silicon will form a film on the surface which might feel smooth for a while but is very hard to get off. I do not know if baby powder contains silicon. I know those furniture spray like Pledge contain it and just in case you want to try it, I would recommend to stay away from it.
Any picture of your cue?:-)

stuff i use contains only Pure corn starch, Tricalcium and trace of phosphate

[poolqjunkie]

stuff i use contains only Pure corn starch, Tricalcium and trace of phosphate

Sound very healthy. :-);-)

[deant1982]

I think with acetone your cue surface is likely quite clean and smooth now. As long as you do not do too much to your cue it should be fine. If you apply too many coats of oil you can make it sticky again. Also, wax, shellac and that kind of stuff can make the shaft sticky.
I do not recommend using silicon product on your cue as the silicon will form a film on the surface which might feel smooth for a while but is very hard to get off. I do not know if baby powder contains silicon. I know those furniture spray like Pledge contain it and just in case you want to try it, I would recommend to stay away from it.
Any picture of your cue?:-)

I think the Acetone has helped it. After that I applied another coat of oil (have now put 4 coats on, as I have had it over 10 years and never done this before), and gave it a few extra hours to cure (about 30 in total). When I looked at it last night, I then gave it a good rub down with kitchen roll, then a good wipe with my towel. It did play really well last night when I went for a knock about, but think it is still just not quite cured properly, so will leave it out in the air to have a bit longer today.

I did put pics in the *post pictures of your cue* thread, but here they are again (hopefully)
Hope this works..... The pics really do neither cue justice. Stupid iphone camera. Biggest pile of turd going!
My cue - Aeon 3/4 butt, Ash Shaft, Ebony butt, 4 maple Veneers, 4 Snakewood secondary Splices, Ebony face splice -
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...6&d=1311002147
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...3&d=1311002147
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...5&d=1311002147
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...4&d=1311002147