What do you use to keep shaft smooth in match?

[sootyvrs]

I am currently using a maple cue which I'm liking a lot.

The shaft is super smooth every time I wipe it down with a damp cloth and then with a dry one but after I go down the club to play a game the shaft starts getting sticky over the bridge hand after around 3-4 frames.

I don't have a damp cloth and just wiping it with a dry one helps a little but is still not super smooth as when after the damp clean method.

Has anyone used something like baby wipes or something similar?

The shaft is not lacquered but seems to have a oiled finish from what I can tell.

I assume no one carries a damp cloth out with them when they play?

I don't have this problem with stickiness with the ash shafts I've played with in the past but do remember this problem when I used to play with a maple shaft cue many years ago and the way round it then was to have a duster with pledge sprayed on it, which I hear is not good for the cue?

[damienlch]

Baby wipes didn't quite work for me... They left some kind of residue on the cue surface which gets it sticky again... and yes, I was using new wipes.

Provided that your cue is not too grimy, you can try wetting a small corner of your cue towel (it only needs to be very slightly damp to do the job), give the cue a once over and buff it dry... Does it for me.

Pledge may work but I doubt its effect will be anywhere lasting. I suspect the smoothness would feel rather artificial too. Rather risky to use it on a favourite cue imo.

Ypu may want to try re-oiling the cue with cue oil and buffing... that may reduce the stickiness during play.

Or get a Trevor White cue... easily the smoothest I've come across... dust almost wouldn't settle on it... Lol.

[DeanH]

In addition to damienlch's comments, the usual cause of stickiness of an otherwise smooth cue while in play is the skin on the bridge hand getting a little sweety, and maybe spashes from your pint , especially after 3-4 frames and not the cue itself.
So as well as wiping the cue down between frames (taking off any chalk dust, etc.) also wash your hands and thoroughly dry them.
How long since the last time the cue has been oiled?
As too much oiling can cause a cue to become really sticky (in this case you can wipe the cue down with dry paper-towel vigorously, the with a dry cotton cloth to buff), but it would feel sticky all the time.
From your description, that the cue is usually very smooth and silky, I would say that it does not need oiling yet, unless you have noticed any dry areas. So hopefully washing/drying your hands as required will help.
There are many threads already about oiling a cue, usually with Raw Linseed being recommended but Mike Wooldridge and Pooljunkie sell their own special oil blend. The knack with oiling is that very little oil is actually required on a paper/kitchen towel, then applied evenly on the cue. Wipe again with a clean paper towel to remove any excess, leave for sometime (usually over night) then buff with cotton cloth.

[damienlch]

...As too much oiling can cause a cue to become really sticky (in this case you can wipe the cue down with dry paper-towel vigorously, the with a dry cotton cloth to buff), but it would feel sticky all the time...

I was over-zealous with the oiling once and had a really fun time buffing it... never again... more haste, less speed.

[sootyvrs]

It's a new cue so I don't think it will need oiling as yet.

Perhaps there is some oil residue that hasn't totally been buffed off at the making stage but as mentioned. It really is silky smooth when cleaned.

I will wash hands every few frames so perhaps that will help but just curious why the last couple of Ash cues I've used don't seem to have the same problem.

[DeanH]

If it is a new cue, then some buffing with paper/kitchen towel the buffing with cotton cloth will help take off the "excess" from "shipping/storage".
It will definitely will not need reoiling

[jaffa.johnson]

It's a new cue so I don't think it will need oiling as yet.

Perhaps there is some oil residue that hasn't totally been buffed off at the making stage but as mentioned. It really is silky smooth when cleaned.

I will wash hands every few frames so perhaps that will help but just curious why the last couple of Ash cues I've used don't seem to have the same problem.

I would never use a damp cloth to clean and wipe a cue but I know some of you do.

What can happen to maple is it sweats once initially oiled/finished and makes it feel like what you are describing.

My advice would be to persevere with it for a few months, keep wiping it with a dry cloth. Use kitchen towel to buff the cue if necessary.

If the cue was finished properly in the first place, this will go away over next month or so.

To help ease with the bridge hand as well as the wash hands, try using talcom powder before you play and if possible keep a small bag in your case to use after washing hands.

[Dean72]

Qwiz is a great little tool for keeping maple shafts clean nd smooth mate

[DeanH]

Talcum powder - personally I have never used talc or even rubbed chalk into the bridge hand V to help with sticking, like I used to see years ago "down the pub"
Talc may not seem it but it is classed as an abrasive, very fine of course, so if you use it you are adding more abrasive material to the shaft, on top of chalk dust, etc.
And did I not read on another posting that MW does not like talc either?
Hopefully, sootyvrs's cue will feel better after towel/cloth buffing and that cleaning/drying hands will help.

[jaffa.johnson]

I hope buffing it helps.

Robin gave me the talc idea and it does the trick for me with no damage to my cue.

[jrc750]

Talc is a definite no no, according to Mike

[deant1982]

http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...148#post591148

It's all here. Read on in the thread and mike expains about avoiding talc as well....

[jaffa.johnson]

From a quick read over, Mike seems anti talc because of the mess rather than the smoothness. I could agree with this if the person is excessive and throws a load of talc all over the place.

If you use a very small bit of talc and rub it into your bridge hand before you start you cant go far wrong.

I am no expert with the abrasiveness of talc but I only ever used baby talc.

Now I can finish cues to a high standard and I am playing with my robin, I dont need talc but it does do the trick if used correctly.

[poolqjunkie]

I suspect if it is a new cue then perhaps there was some wax applied on the shaft, or may be some of the oil on the surface is making the shaft feeling a bit sticky.
Using water can remove the oil and wax and what not on the surface over time. After wiping a few times with water your shaft might feel very smooth because the wax/oil/sealant was removed. Since you have removed the finish on the surface the dirt and sweat and beer and whatever could make it sticky again after a while. When you wipe it with a wet towel again those dirt are removed but then they get on your shaft again after a while...making it sticky again.
Do not use those furniture polish or any wipe that may consist chemical if you can help it. What happens is these products very often contain silicon which can form a film on your wood over time making other finish very hard to penerate. It is like trying to spray paint on a car which has been cleaned with Armorall products--paint just would not stay on.

[cuebru]

I've had that problem also and you will find that the stickiest cues are found in the rack. Its dirt from dirty hands. My solution has been and continues to be, first wash your hands and then with the damp towel rub down the cue. A final trick is to make sure there is NO TALC in the building and use an alcohol (not the drinking kind) hand cleaner on your bridge. Pure rubbing alcohol will dry your skin out real good. Treat this way and even a well varnished shaft will play like a dream. NO TALC