Wax vs oil

[DeanH]

As long as it is clean I would not do anything other than what you would normally do when oiling your cue.
Unless MW's oil has anything in it to the contrary it should be ok to apply over old oil (say raw linseed) but of course if the old finish is varnish then it wont work as the oil will not penetrate to the wood.
When I used the Aurora oil I applied this on top of a raw linseed application which was about 1 month old (just after I had purchased it as it was relatively dry) and all seems good so far
If the cue surface is suspect, then using a very fine grit paper (1000+) would not hurt as long as you are gentle and go with the grain (i.e. do not twist the cue as you use the grit paper) and wipe down to remove any debris/dust.
ps I tend not to use wire wool on my cues - personal preference.

[themayorofflair]

Personally, if my cue becomes sticky I just wet the corner of my cue towel (about an eighth) with hot water & wipe my cue from the top to bottom. I will then dry the cue throroughly & firmly with the rest of the dry towel (it makes a squeaking sound if you do it right) & all traces of stickiness are now well & truly gone.

To be fair if you wax / oil your cue regularly you shouldn't really suffer from a sticky shaft (oooooer missus) !

With regards the whole oil vs wax arguament I personally prefer wax for day to day use. I used craftsman cues finishing wax & it is absolutely fantastic. I just coat the whole cue in a thin layer of wax, wait for 15/20 minutes & then buff to obtain a silky finish. No problems with using the wax all over the cue (& not just the butt).

I will also oil my cue about three times a year (currently using the Aurora Cue Oil) as I think this gives the wood a deeper nourish than the wax (which mainly takes care of the surface of the cue). I usually leave the oil overnight & buff to a smooth finish the following day.

If there are any imperfections on the shaft (ie raised grain etc) I will use some very fine flourpaper & give the cue a very gentle rub but this MUST be done in moderation of you can end up with a cue as thin as a matchstick !

I also use the flourpaper to give my ferrule a quick shine every so often but once again this must be done gently so as not to thin the ferrule out over time.

If you look after your cue it will look after you !

[sootyvrs]

If the cue surface is suspect, then using a very fine grit paper (1000+) would not hurt as long as you are gentle and go with the grain (i.e. do not twist the cue as you use the grit paper) and wipe down to remove any debris/dust.
ps I tend not to use wire wool on my cues - personal preference.

Will something like this do? I know it's description is for the automotive side instead of woodwork.

Halfords Wet & Dry Paper Product Description

The 1500 fine grit of Halfords Wet & Dry Paper is perfect to use for the fine sanding of primer undercoat and sanding between coats of paint. It is made from silicone carbide for a professional finish on metal, paint and fillers.
Features & Benefits of Halfords Wet & Dry Paper

1500 grit (fine)
Ideal for sanding between coats of paint
Ideal for fine sanding of primer undercoat
Formulated for use either wet or dry
Silicon carbide paper for professional results
4 sheets (230x280mm)

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_255242

There is also a P2500 paper

Halfords Wet & Dry P2500 Product Description

The Halfords Wet & Dry P2500 sandpaper is ideal to achieve a smoother finish, producing the best results.

Use an aluminium oxide paper to remove all rust and paint to reveal bare metal surface ready for rust treatment product, to achieve a smooth professional finish, work in sequence from a coarse to fine grit (do not jump more than 2 grits between sanding). Use a wet & dry paper wet to lubricate and prevent clogging giving a smoother finish then use a very fine wet & dry between paint and lacquer coats to give best results.
Features & Benefits of Halfords Wet & Dry P2500

Ideal for DIY car bodywork repairs & projects around the home
4 sheets of fine wet & dry sandpaper
Use wet & dry paper wet to lubricate & prevent clogging giving a smoother finish
Use very fine wet & dry between paint & lacquer coats to give best results
NB. Do not jump more than 2 grits between sanding

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_255242

There is no hardware store near me but there is a Halfords.

If not suitable then I will travel to get the right stuff

[DeanH]

Will something like this do? I know it's description is for the automotive side instead of woodwork.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_255242

There is also a P2500 paper
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_255242

There is no hardware store near me but there is a Halfords.
If not suitable then I will travel to get the right stuff

Should be ok, as long as you use it dry
FYI - the stock I got was:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3000-grit-...item43aa07d7c9
which I also use to final finish my tips, great to get rid of those little tuffs

[poolqjunkie]

I purchased some MW cue oil some time back but not applied any yet as I don't want to risk changing the playing characteristics of my playing cue at this moment in time.

I have found that my cue is a little sticky after a few frames and have to wipe it down with a damp cloth before it's smooth again. I think there is a layer of something on the cue e.g. wax/oil and but I wish to prepare it for the MW oil.

Is it worthwhile preparing properly before the oil by using something abrasive to take all the surface crap off e.g. very fine sanding/wire wool?

Oil should not change the playing charateristic of your shaft in a negative sense. If you shaft is really dry, it may sometimes sounds a bit "dingy" and oiling it should help, if anything.

[Wayne G]

Mayor,

I have to ask, what is flourpaper? Never heard of it before. Thanks.

[DeanH]

Mayor,

I have to ask, what is flourpaper? Never heard of it before. Thanks.

It is very fine grade, comes in various grades down to 0000 grade I used to use between applications of laquer in my carpentry days.
A lot of fine dust (mostly from the paper itself) to clean out the way and does not last as long as "standard" silicon 3000.
Very fine finish though and feels like you are just using a standard piece of paper

[poolqjunkie]

It is very fine grade, comes in various grades down to 0000 grade I used to use between applications of laquer in my carpentry days.
A lot of fine dust (mostly from the paper itself) to clean out the way and does not last as long as "standard" silicon 3000.
Very fine finish though and feels like you are just using a standard piece of paper

So you use it dry, or can it be wet?

[DeanH]

So you use it dry, or can it be wet?

Flourpaper, only dry, sorry should have said
I haven't used it in years (over 20) and even then it was not very common to find.

[alee90]

What do you think about olive oil for finishnig?

[DeanH]

What do you think about olive oil for finishnig?

Personally I would not use olive oil.
If you have a spare old cue lying around why not give it a try and tell us what you think.
Anyone else tried olive oil on a cue?
I don't even like it on my food

[deant1982]

It might be good if you have an olivewood splice or splices, but I'd be a bit worried that it would possibly bring it back to life and have my cue start sprouting branches! lol

[alee90]

Personally I would not use olive oil.
If you have a spare old cue lying around why not give it a try and tell us what you think.
Anyone else tried olive oil on a cue?
I don't even like it on my food

Ok! I'll test it. I recently purchased few different types of oil and I will test it on my old maple and ash cues.

[CueAntW147]

What do you think about olive oil for finishnig?

don't know what " Popeye " would think about this............;-)

[alee90]

lol He definitely use it for his cue....