Taper width ?????

[denja]

Could someone tell me what the normal standard taper measurement 12 inches from the tip on most snooker cues is ? and how much do they vary mine is 15mm.

[trevs1]

Approx 14mm to 14.5mm diameter is the average standard.

Anything over approx 14.75mm is going to start to feel quite thick, and conversely, anything below approx 14mm is going to start feeling a little slim.

So, the usual taper diameter at that point (12" from the ferrule) is anything between 13.5mm and 15mm, although there will be some cues outside that range.

[denja]

Approx 14mm to 14.5mm diameter is the average standard.

Anything over approx 14.75mm is going to start to feel quite thick, and conversely, anything below approx 14mm is going to start feeling a little slim.

So, the usual taper diameter at that point (12" from the ferrule) is anything between 13.5mm and 15mm, although there will be some cues outside that range.

Apart from the feel of the cue between the bridge V its there any for or against a smaller or a larger taper my Craftsman Phoenix is 14.75 mm and my Peradon Regal is 13,75mm but appears to taper more towards the tip. I only ask because a newbie at the club asked me and to be honest I did not know the answer.

[Bigmeek]

I think the taper at the bridge is the important measurement rather than 12" from tip. Not really sure where you should measure as the cue will slide up and down the V of your bridge. You just need to feel that the cue feels "right" as it flows across the V. Not too thick and not too thin. To compare cues and try to work out what's right for me I've been taking my measure at 7" from tip.

[DeanH]

I have never thought about this so I did some measurements on my two new cues.
Dan Shelton ash, 9.5mm ferrule, 7" - 12.6mm, 12" - 13.9mm
John Parris ash, 8.2mm ferrule, 7" - 11.7, 12" - 14.1mm
Both cues feel to me to be about the same medium stiffness, not whippy at all.
And when looking down the shafts you can see the appearance of a point of taper-change - not measured
But the JP is closer to the ferrule than the DS, due to being a pool spec and down to the small tip, I assume.
Hope this helps
:snooker:

[trevs1]

There's no point in going into which type of taper is best, how it affects a cue or any other aspect of it really, because each cue is to be looked at individually, and what may be an improvement for one, might not be for another.

That 12" point is only used as a rough guide to the thickness, at the point of rest on the bridge when the tip is against the cueball.
It will obviously move forward and backwards of that point as you are addressing the ball on the shot, but, the measurement at 12" down is an indicator of what the taper on the front of a shaft 'might' be like, assuming that the taper is of a more or less 'normal' shape.

Some cues will have a slender shape, and so might be slimmer from the 18" or 12" point down to the ferrule, whereas some cue may have a fuller shape, whereby the taper almost looks like a ciger shape towards the ferrule. There's no "best" with it, it's a question of comfort as much as anything else. Excessively thick tapered cues don't seem to be favoured by many though, and standard to slim seems to be by far the preferred shape of the front of a cue shaft.

[denja]

I have never thought about this so I did some measurements on my two new cues.
Dan Shelton ash, 9.5mm ferrule, 7" - 12.6mm, 12" - 13.9mm
John Parris ash, 8.2mm ferrule, 7" - 11.7, 12" - 14.1mm
Both cues feel to me to be about the same medium stiffness, not whippy at all.
And when looking down the shafts you can see the appearance of a point of taper-change - not measured
But the JP is closer to the ferrule than the DS, due to being a pool spec and down to the small tip, I assume.
Hope this helps
:snooker:

I asked this question because there are conflicting opinions as to how far from the cue ball your bridge V should be ! some coaches say 12 inches others 9 inches and some as low as 7 = 8 inches on some cues the 12 inch mark feels way too thick.

[DeanH]

Firstly, I hope that Trevs1 posting helped you with your first query.
Well, bridge distance is a different matter from to the taper of the cue.
The coaches I have seen have all said definitely anything more than 12" is too far for good control of the cue and cue delivery.
And all NEVER mentioned the taper of the cue, apart from overall length they did not even bother to discuss the specs of any cue.
Closer that 12" is obviosuly better but then it will be determined by player preference, so yes an appropriate "average" could be around the 9" mark.
Personally, I think I am around 9-10" (trying to get a tad closer) and I have never considered the taper of the cue to be a factor in the positioning of my bridge.
cheers

[Terry Davidson]

I agree with DeanH as far as the taper goes. It has nothing to do with the distance of bridge to cueball and everything to do with the stiffness or whippyness (is that a word?) of the cue.

For people of normal height (say 5ft6in to 6ft2in) I teach the 'V' of the bridge should be somewhere between 9" to 12" but no more and no less. This is a trade-off as more cue will give you a better aiming length on those long pots but less control over the tip moving off on the cueball and shorter then gives less aiming length for long pots but better control of the tip contact point on the cueball.

If you are lucky enough to deliver the cue absolutely straight then I'd say a slighly longish length is better. Also, those players who use a longer backswing should have a little more cue out there but again, no more that 12".

For the taper thing. I am working with Trevor right now on a new cue and I've asked him to narrow the taper in the last 10"-12" a bit from his normal as I've found this will give the cue more 'life' (which really means slightly more whippy for more spin) and the overall shaft to be medium flex as opposed to medium-stiff.

I did get a cue from Aurora with these same specs and I have to say I found this sort of taper suited me although the cue was a little light for me at 17.8oz but it played very well so I've asked Trevor to place the weight at 18.3-18.5 with this taper and I will see how that goes. The one danger here is since wood is a natural product cues with the same taper may react slightly different and also there might me a difference between ash and maple although I haven't been able to discover what that it yet.

Terry

[DeanH]

A usual test of a player's bridge distance, is to place the cue-ball next to the Brown spot, as if you were to play the cue-ball "down the spots" but have the cue-ball outside the D so that when the cue is addressed to the cue-ball the cue-tip is directly over the Brown spot. Then the player's bridge, specifically the V of the bridging hand, should not be outside the D. (some coaches take the top of the thumb, others the first knuckle of the thumb, others the top knuckle of the index finger)
The D is 11.5" radius (on a 12' table) so this is a very simple test of the player's bridging distance.
You can test your newbie's placement by this method.

[Bigmeek]

Terry Interesting comments about the position of the bridge. I certainly don't conform to this. My figures are:-
My middle finger of grip hand is at 4" from end of butt. My cue at V is 7" from tip. I'm 5'11" and play with 58" cue. Off the top of your head is this a bit abnormal? When I had my lessons with Jim D last year he never said there was anything wrong in this area but maybe that's because I had so many other things going wrong at the time!!!

[nrage]

Terry Interesting comments about the position of the bridge. I certainly don't conform to this. My figures are:-
My middle finger of grip hand is at 4" from end of butt. My cue at V is 7" from tip. I'm 5'11" and play with 58" cue. Off the top of your head is this a bit abnormal? When I had my lessons with Jim D last year he never said there was anything wrong in this area but maybe that's because I had so many other things going wrong at the time!!!

7" from tip to bridge V (where the cue rests on the thumb/finger contact point) is on the short side of recommended (which is 8-12 inches). But, so long as your grip forearm is vertical, or very slightly backward of vertical at "address" (where the cue tip is ~1 inch or less from the white) then it's fine. Being forward of vertical at address will reduce the follow through distance, being too far backward of vertical will give you less control of the shot.

[Bigmeek]

nrage Thanks. Really appreciate the comments. Must take a look at this next time I'm at the club and experiment a bit.

[eaoin11]

also there might me a difference between ash and maple although I haven't been able to discover what that it yet.

Terry

Terry I think PoolJunkie starting a thread on this question, though not sure what came out of it at the time. I thought a couple of years ago that Stephen Maquire's maple cue really seemed to slim down noticeably over the last 12 inches, possibly the one made by Trevor, and wonder if this is to reduce throw by reducing end mass, compensating for the higher density of maple. My unclevit cue was tapered like this too and felt really good, with great combination of solid feel and response.

I also recall you wanting a thin-walled ferrule a little while ago, for the same reasons?

[poolqjunkie]

For the taper thing. I am working with Trevor right now on a new cue and I've asked him to narrow the taper in the last 10"-12" a bit from his normal as I've found this will give the cue more 'life' (which really means slightly more whippy for more spin) and the overall shaft to be medium flex as opposed to medium-stiff.

I did get a cue from Aurora with these same specs and I have to say I found this sort of taper suited me although the cue was a little light for me at 17.8oz but it played very well so I've asked Trevor to place the weight at 18.3-18.5 with this taper and I will see how that goes. The one danger here is since wood is a natural product cues with the same taper may react slightly different and also there might me a difference between ash and maple although I haven't been able to discover what that it yet.

Terry

Hi Terry,
In my humble opinion, the stiffness and spring of the particular shaft being selected has quite a bit to do with the "live" and "power" of the cue. I am sure someone as knowledgable and experienced as Trevor can select a perfect piece of shaft to give you the kind of hit you are looking for.

Personally, I would say it is the combination of the proper taper with the proper shaft--not just a particular taper--that determines the way the cue plays. In my humble opinion it is the selection of the right shaft that is really important. For example, if you have a very springy peice of ash on your cue and you use the same taper that is used on your cue now it is not going to play the same as very likely it will be too whippy. On the other hand, if the shaft is very stiff by nature, using the taper that you have now your cue will still play a bit too stiff and lacking the kind of "live" you are looking for.

I tried to start a discussion on this a while ago but the few who contributed seemed to believe one taper should be used regardless of the properties of the shaft, which I respecfully disagree.

Anyway, thank you very much for your purchase of your new Aurora cue.;-)