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The cue oil John Parris sells is advertised as pure raw linseed oil. May be he suggested against it because your cue was new and just did not need any oiling..just my guess...
The cue oil John Parris sells is advertised as pure raw linseed oil. May be he suggested against it because your cue was new and just did not need any oiling..just my guess...
Or maybe it's because you can get a litre of raw linseed oil for about £3.50 at wilko's, where as he re-bottles it, and sells a few hundred millilitres for £7.15..........
If you want to play the pink, but you're hampered by the red, you could always try to play the brown!
Or maybe it's because you can get a litre of raw linseed oil for about £3.50 at wilko's, where as he re-bottles it, and sells a few hundred millilitres for £7.15..........
Well my point is just that I think it shows that John Parris believes raw linseed oil will not harm his cues. If he recommends against it on a certain cue, it is most likely because it just does not need it, or perhaps--as pointed out by Mike and Trevor--that applying such might darken the wood too much.
I am sure it will not affect the glue under the splices, which is what the original poster was worried about.
I treated my cue with linseed oil few days ago and I buffed it with a damp cloth then a clean cloth several times.
But I can't seem to get rid of that oily feel on my cue.
Could anyone help me? It's smooth but feels weird.
Highest Break Practice : 96
Highest Break Match : 87 (Previous 85)
I stopped playing since November 2012
Picked my cue up again since mid-way 2014
Or maybe it's because you can get a litre of raw linseed oil for about £3.50 at wilko's, where as he re-bottles it, and sells a few hundred millilitres for £7.15..........
I treated my cue with linseed oil few days ago and I buffed it with a damp cloth then a clean cloth several times.
But I can't seem to get rid of that oily feel on my cue.
Could anyone help me? It's smooth but feels weird.
Once oiled don't use a damp cloth, only a dry one, and it can take a lot of buffing, to get the dry smooth finish you are after.
How much oil did you apply to the cue, if too much it will take ages to buff off, also how long did you let it air dry before buffing, usually leaving the cue overnight before buffing?
Try using paper towel, like kitchen paper towel, and not a cotton cloth, to buff.
Sometimes the oily feel can remain for several days, as long as it is not sticky all is ok. Patience is the trick
I treated my cue with linseed oil few days ago and I buffed it with a damp cloth then a clean cloth several times.
But I can't seem to get rid of that oily feel on my cue.
Could anyone help me? It's smooth but feels weird.
Have a read of post number 9 in this thread.
The overwhelming majority of cues just DO NOT NEED OILING........ EVER.
Once oiled don't use a damp cloth, only a dry one, and it can take a lot of buffing, to get the dry smooth finish you are after.
How much oil did you apply to the cue, if too much it will take ages to buff off, also how long did you let it air dry before buffing, usually leaving the cue overnight before buffing?
Try using paper towel, like kitchen paper towel, and not a cotton cloth, to buff.
Sometimes the oily feel can remain for several days, as long as it is not sticky all is ok. Patience is the trick
I used one layer of coating , not much. and let it rest for 24hours or so.
Imma try the kitchen paper now
thanks for the help!
I used one layer of coating , not much. and let it rest for 24hours or so.
Imma try the kitchen paper now
thanks for the help!
If you used raw linseed oil (nothing else in it) it can take more than 24 hours to fully be absorbed into the wood and cure. Leave it a few days before buffing it.
If it's a fairly new cue, as Trevor said, it won't need oiling for a good while, like, years (if ever)!
If you want to play the pink, but you're hampered by the red, you could always try to play the brown!
Doubt that. It says on his cue care faq to use raw linseed oil, the stuff they sell is for people that need to have the exact same stuff as they use even if it is just regular linseed oil. As posted a page or so back Mike Wooldridge does the same thing,
...Try using paper towel, like kitchen paper towel, and not a cotton cloth, to buff.
Sometimes the oily feel can remain for several days, as long as it is not sticky all is ok. Patience is the trick
Yes, the paper towel trick worked for me. I have a rather inexpensive cue to experiment stuff on; cue oils, waxs, new tips etc etc. Once got overzealous with the oiling and the shaft felt terribly sticky like. Had so much fun with the buffing... I almost broke down at one point when my arms felt like they were coming off and I thought nothing was ever going to work...
When life gives you lemons, don't make lemonade. Make life take the lemons back. GET MAD!!
Yes, the paper towel trick worked for me. I have a rather inexpensive cue to experiment stuff on; cue oils, waxs, new tips etc etc. Once got overzealous with the oiling and the shaft felt terribly sticky like. Had so much fun with the buffing... I almost broke down at one point when my arms felt like they were coming off and I thought nothing was ever going to work...
tried it too, nailed it! thanks for the advise Dean
Highest Break Practice : 96
Highest Break Match : 87 (Previous 85)
I stopped playing since November 2012
Picked my cue up again since mid-way 2014
tried it too, nailed it! thanks for the advise Dean
glad it worked for you
Happy New Year
I find a gentle wipe with a dry soft cotton cloth as I take the cue out of the case for a game and always again as I put it away; to take any chalk dust, etc, off; sometimes a wipe or two during a long match. Also having clean dry hands help as well.
Usually when people complain about a sticky cue, it it often not the cue but dirty/sweaty hands
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