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Be interesting to see how the splicings done, ive always wondered how hard it is to get the base of the splices at the crossover point level. Seems to be quite tricky as most cues ive seen usually have at least 1 higher or lower than the rest.
'quite' tricky? lol...
yes, jp seems to have a problem with it anyway. as do 99% of other cues i see.
yes, jp seems to have a problem with it anyway. as do 99% of other cues i see.
it is very easy to splice a cue.
it is very difficult to do well (properly).
Depends how much importance the customer puts on it I suppose. Most will be more fussy about the tips of the splices being level. The base of them doesn't seem to annoy people as much ( thought it seems that if it's a parris cue every millimetre of it is scrutinised to ridiculous lengths by a few people to say the least).
It could also be argued that everything being 100% level takes away from the hand made aspect of it where people may expect slight variances.
I don't mind slight variances myself, gives the cue a bit of character and helps it not be another clone of another production cue.
Most will be more fussy about the tips of the splices being level. The base of them doesn't seem to annoy people as much ( thought it seems that if it's a parris cue every millimetre of it is scrutinised to ridiculous lengths by a few people to say the least).
It could also be argued that everything being 100% level takes away from the hand made aspect of it where people may expect slight variances.
I don't mind slight variances myself, gives the cue a bit of character and helps it not be another clone of another production cue.
personally, i've never scrutinised a parris cue, or any other, to ridiculous lengths. 'build' faults are immediately obvious.
as for taking away from hand made aspect, i fail to see the logic in that.
some people use 'hand made' as an excuse for mistakes. i call it laziness.
if you prefer uneven splice work, i have plenty in my workshop bin.
Mike, I have so much respect for you. That is so awesome.
Thanks for sharing.:-)
I am looking to get an electrical plane after watching your video, seems like a very good tool to have.
Have you tried those Asian planes with a curved bottom?
Last edited by poolqjunkie; 3 February 2012, 07:01 AM.
Just watched the vids, excellent, very impressive and informative i would love to be able to do that.
Just wondering about when you have planned it down to about 3-4mil excess and it moves when settling does it tend to only move slightly and can be planed out or do you sometimes get movement that means it gets binned?
Thanks for posting the vids Mike, thoroughly enjoyed watching them. You sure make it look easy enough but I think we can tell how difficult it is to plane it to shape like what you did.
Btw, the electric planer sounds really loud, either that or you've got a good video cam there... you should still consider getting some ear plugs though...
When life gives you lemons, don't make lemonade. Make life take the lemons back. GET MAD!!
Great videos , I was wondering how imperative is it to start from a 1.5" x1.5" stock.
it's not important.
mostly i would use planks and cut out tapered squares from them, making sure it's cut to get the very best out of the wood as regards 'straight' grain etc..
i happened to acquire these squares, which are more convenient, but you have less control as regards grain.
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