Oiling your cue

[thelongbomber]

Mike are you able to share any info about your oil? It seems it's the oil of choice based on everyone's feedback here but I'm hesitant to apply something to my precious cue without knowing what it contains.

[jarcher]

Oiling your cue

The first difference I noticed, was even before buffing, mikes oil left the cue feeling smooth, whereas with the linseed, it felt a bit tacky until buffed. Think mikes oil is also thinner in consistency.

[MikeWooldridge]

Mike are you able to share any info about your oil?

no

lol

but fyi - no mineral spirits

[thelongbomber]

OK, that's a good to know. I guess it's some combination of oils you have come up with. Fair enough you don't wish to share your recipe. I'm less concerned now knowing there are not spirits in your product.

You mentioned on your site oil as often as you like. Does this product harden the wood like the Linseed seems to?

Thanks Mike.

[poolqjunkie]

I am not expert with how oil works but from what I understand applying oil to a cue that has been taken good care of should not make it any stiffer or harden the wood. The oil will likely form a very thin film of finish on the surface and may be if the pores are not sealed get absorbed into the wood a bit.
If you put a drop of linseed oil on a piece of metal or glass and watch it dry, you should see that it does not dry to a smooth surface. You can see some wrinkles on the dried surface. That is why if you leave a thick coat of linseed oil on your cue it will feel sticky.
With linseed you are advised to wipe off the oil after 30 minutes to an hour and then just let it dry. The reason behind that is to avoid the oil from forming that "wrinkled" substance on your shaft surface. Since almost all the oil that is left on the surface will be wiped off, only a tiny bit of oil remains. This small amount of oil will form a very thin film on the wood as a protective layer, and it will oxidize with air to give your cue that antique-looking golden colour.
If your shaft has been oiled often and the wood is "sealed" with a nice glossy patina of golden colour on the surface., additional oiling will not penerate into the wood at all. It will just build up on the surface

[stejohn]

raw linseed oil mixed with pure turpentine 60/40 seems to work well for me. Just need to make sure its applied very thinnly, buffed like hell and left for a few days between coats.

[thelongbomber]

raw linseed oil mixed with pure turpentine 60/40 seems to work well for me. Just need to make sure its applied very thinnly, buffed like hell and left for a few days between coats.

Interesting idea using Turpentine. I read more about that and other ideas here: http://www.diyinfo.org/wiki/How_To_Use_Linseed_Oil

[throtts]

Use Pledge or Mr Sheene and buff like hell straight away. Also chalk tip with cue held slightly side ways so chalk does fall and stick to shaft as much, common sense thing to do imo.

[bally]

I oiled my cue w.t master cue oil ( non sticky) , just used dry clean cloth put litlle few drop of cue oil and rub gently yr cue, left over night , oil will penetrate in to the shaft and left a very little oil residue on yr cue then just clean it again w.t yr dry cloth then they r ready for play again.
U can do this 2-3 months for 1 time not too much! the oil will help yr cue look great look litle yellowish w.t gross finished like an old cue in best condition. They prevent the moisture content in the wood to be staedy by sealing the wood pore.
And one more thing i will oil my cue evertime the season changed , i belived thsi will helped the cue either!
Try to avoid Linseed oil available in the market it is not worked w.t this , yr cue will be very sticky and very diffcult to make them back to yr own original finishing.