History has proven anyway that you don't need a straight cue to be a Champion. Not the most important thing in the world, if it sights straight that should be good enough for you.
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Originally Posted by jrc750 View PostHistory has proven anyway that you don't need a straight cue to be a Champion. Not the most important thing in the world, if it sights straight that should be good enough for you.
I agree if it feels straight for you, then it's great!
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rolling is for people who don't understand cues - a cue may or may not roll straight because a cue is not a perfect cone - and it is not weighted as such either, if you understand cues the whole idea of rolling them on a table is silly.
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Originally Posted by ADR147 View Postrolling is for people who don't understand cues - a cue may or may not roll straight because a cue is not a perfect cone - and it is not weighted as such either, if you understand cues the whole idea of rolling them on a table is silly.
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Originally Posted by Cue_Seeker View PostI've mentioned in my post that this only applies to straight tapered cues. are you telling me that a meant to be straight tapered cue SHOULD NOT have a perfect cone, it should(if it doesn't then it is an indication of a flaw, whether it affects your playing or not)! no matter how it is weighted, the center of gravity occurs still around 1/4 of the length from the end of the butt!
Knowing that a wooden cone cannot be perfect, consider the impact of the location of the small variancies. These tiny variances can
make the roll totally different depending on their location either along the length of the wood, or rotationally. The cue could still look, feel & play straight, but not roll perfect.
Even calipers can't really be used for diameter measurements, as 2 points of contact can give a false reading if there is any lobbing in the dia.
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that makes a lot of sense. one question, as in the example I gave above. "2 hand crafted cues from the same maker, with the exact same specifications, all meant to be straight taper, one rolls more perfect than the other, which one would you buy?" Ceteris paribus (meaning all other things held the same).
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I understand the logic of what your saying, however, It only takes a tiny grain of sand to make a cue not roll straight, and even if a cue is done by hand or machine, it only takes a tint portion of grain or splice to make a cue seem to roll off, therefor, one would always be better to use the eye to check for straight tapers."Don't think, feel"
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Originally Posted by Cue_Seeker View Postthat makes a lot of sense. one question, as in the example I gave above. "2 hand crafted cues from the same maker, with the exact same specifications, all meant to be straight taper, one rolls more perfect than the other, which one would you buy?" Ceteris paribus (meaning all other things held the same).
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Originally Posted by Cue_Seeker View PostI've mentioned in my post that this only applies to straight tapered cues. are you telling me that a meant to be straight tapered cue SHOULD NOT have a perfect cone, it should(if it doesn't then it is an indication of a flaw, whether it affects your playing or not)! no matter how it is weighted, the center of gravity occurs still around 1/4 of the length from the end of the butt!
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Originally Posted by Cue_Seeker View Postthat makes a lot of sense. one question, as in the example I gave above. "2 hand crafted cues from the same maker, with the exact same specifications, all meant to be straight taper, one rolls more perfect than the other, which one would you buy?" Ceteris paribus (meaning all other things held the same).
Don't tell me . . there's no balls at this table :wink-new:
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Originally Posted by billabong View PostSo there's a table available, AND the cues are available. Why would anyone not base the choice on how they play / feel ?
Don't tell me . . there's no balls at this table :wink-new:
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Originally Posted by The Doctor View PostI understand the logic of what your saying, however, It only takes a tiny grain of sand to make a cue not roll straight, and even if a cue is done by hand or machine, it only takes a tint portion of grain or splice to make a cue seem to roll off, therefor, one would always be better to use the eye to check for straight tapers.
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Originally Posted by Cue_Seeker View PostThanks for the understanding, and I guess it's just my eyes, I tried to sight a lot of warped cues, and I am just not able to sight the bend. it's just me I guess
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Originally Posted by Cue_Seeker View PostI did the sight-right thing endorsed by steve davis(you can youtube it), and apparently I don't really have a noticeable strong eye.
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