dave coutts and will hunt

[louise sheldon]

Aren't turned more likely to be conical in shape?

that depends on the cue makers skill with a hand plane as does not having a lumpy taper depends on the skill of the cue maker who uses a lathe, and going back to what adr147 said about planning down over a period of months this is no different to lathing down in stages over a period of months as any good cue maker should do and i'm sure trevor would agree. why? because the stresses in the timber are better released slowly rather than quickly and then trying to straighten the cue afterwards

[jim evans]

so me as an hobbyist cue maker would get about 6 cues ayear lol,and dont you sand in a lathe or anything it must take ages to sand a cue to round even when been brilliant at planing

[Samcheung001]

Sorry to interrupt the discussion. Dave, I've bought a new Will Hunt green plate from a Hong Kong dealer. The original finishing is great and smooth. After I applied some cue oil, should be too much and left too long before buffing, it appearred tacky. Just want to know could I use a fine sand paper, like 2000, to sand it off gently and would it harm to the original finish ?

[jono*]

dave coutts and will hunt

From snooker147?

Just play with it a bit should be fine. No need to sand it away because the oil would have soaked into the cue rather than still be on the surface. Just keep buffing, play with it a bit and it will soon be fine.

[trevs1]

Sorry to interrupt the discussion. Dave, I've bought a new Will Hunt green plate from a Hong Kong dealer. The original finishing is great and smooth. After I applied some cue oil, should be too much and left too long before buffing, it appearred tacky. Just want to know could I use a fine sand paper, like 2000, to sand it off gently and would it harm to the original finish ?

Oil will sit "on" the timber if there is already adequate oil in the surface of the wood. By adding more oil, you are more likely to spoil a good finish rather than enhance it. Far too many people seem to think that they NEED to be oiling their cues, when they need to do no such thing at all. A well finished quality cue should require nothing done to it in order to maintain its smooth feeling.

A dry cloth should do just fine, with a slightly damp one after several months of use, just to clean off any ingrained dirt / dust which has accumulated on the shaft from your skin and the table bed.

For the issue you describe above, then yes, 2000 grit (or even 1000 grit) would be fine to remove the residue.

[Neil Taperell]

Very interesting . I won't do mine then .

Trevor , What would you put on a joint that squeaks on tightening it ?

[stejohn]

don't know what Trev uses but i find a very small amount of vaseline rubbed in well with a cloth does the job nicely

[Neil Taperell]

Cheers for that .

Worried about what to put on it , as i had a joint lock up on a cue once .

[Samcheung001]

From snooker147?

Just play with it a bit should be fine. No need to sand it away because the oil would have soaked into the cue rather than still be on the surface. Just keep buffing, play with it a bit and it will soon be fine.

Yes from 147. The boss - Au Yeung is so friendly, enthusiastic and professional in both services and advices. You also from Hong Kong ?

[Samcheung001]

Oil will sit "on" the timber if there is already adequate oil in the surface of the wood. By adding more oil, you are more likely to spoil a good finish rather than enhance it. Far too many people seem to think that they NEED to be oiling their cues, when they need to do no such thing at all. A well finished quality cue should require nothing done to it in order to maintain its smooth feeling.

A dry cloth should do just fine, with a slightly damp one after several months of use, just to clean off any ingrained dirt / dust which has accumulated on the shaft from your skin and the table bed.

For the issue you describe above, then yes, 2000 grit (or even 1000 grit) would be fine to remove the residue.

Many thanks Trevor to your advices. I've had tried 3 of your cues in Hong Kong which are really impressive. The shaft is stiff and responsive but would not be dead hard. The reason why I had not made one mine is the length 58" a bit too long for me and also a bit out of my budget, haha.

[jono*]

From snooker147?

Just play with it a bit should be fine. No need to sand it away because the oil would have soaked into the cue rather than still be on the surface. Just keep buffing, play with it a bit and it will soon be fine.

Yes from 147. The boss - Au Yeung is so friendly, enthusiastic and professional in both services and advices. You also from Hong Kong ?

I bought the second hand will hunt green plate on offer cos the 57 inch 18oz one I originally wanted was bought buy you... Haha... No worries, I got the 58 inch 17.5 oz one and actually found it very good..

[flame]

, wholly hand made, partially hand made, semi hand made, finished by, partially turned etc, punters wouldn't be happy seeing these descriptions on a cue badge, but HAND MADE( in the mind of the buyer)(idealologist ) conjures up the cue makers intent, an individual cue made to your personal preferences by hand by me,i have no beefs about using lathes or milling machines etc, however a cue is made i have no problem with ,it is the implications.

[jim evans]

hi flame where you been mate busy i guess,i think people want the best they can afford,the problem arises when it isnt quiet as gd as thought it would be,personly i think if ime buying from what i would at the moment say are the best cue makers i would exspect what i am paying for,ime not going to name them because most people know who they are and what there talking about,then you could start grading cues ie ultimates etc to your bog standard stuff from general sports shops, i think until you have tried making a cue most off us dont have a clue what goes into it ,theres a few of us that have and are having ago some as me its an hobby some may want to take it further they will have to prove over the years that they warrent the price there asking or getting but we could all turn out a plain ash or maple cue that would prob do the job,we just want something different and that is what we are paying for,a name a standard, different class,the ultimate if you have the money do what you gotta do ,sorry for the long story had a gd drink lol,jim

[jonnyhumbucker]

Anybody else bought one of these, They look good for the money just wondering how they play.