Linseed oiling cue....

[DeanH]

I don't use kitchen towels and I don't leave a thin film of oil on the cue.

Hi Gerry, I must ask - how do you apply the oil? and do you leave a thick film of oil?

[Gerry Armstrong]

Lint free cloths and no oil residue at all.

[DeanH]

cheers for the answer
Paper kitchen towel is lint free as long as you use it quickly, and if done this way there should not be any "residue" or "excess" (as discribed buy other threads) but only a nice covering (or light film (I think this desciption is of the shine left on the cue)) as descibed in the other threads - you always wipe the cue with a dry piece of towel to remove any excess(residue) to leave an even application (film?) of oil
I use paper kitchen towel as it is readily availble to most players who are are only oiling their beloved cue once in a while and not a cuemake/doctor who would be doing it on a permentant basis
peace - have a great evening

[Particle Physics]

cheers for the answer
Paper kitchen towel is lint free as long as you use it quickly, and if done this way there should not be any "residue" or "excess" (as discribed buy other threads) but only a nice covering (or light film (I think this desciption is of the shine left on the cue)) as descibed in the other threads - you always wipe the cue with a dry piece of towel to remove any excess(residue) to leave an even application (film?) of oil
I use paper kitchen towel as it is readily availble to most players who are are only oiling their beloved cue once in a while and not a cuemake/doctor who would be doing it on a permentant basis
peace - have a great evening

We have a pump sprayer in the kitched. Pump it up, then one squirt onto some kitchen towel (a strong thick towel of course), so there is just a film on the towel. The great thing about kitchen towel is its absorbency, so it takes a bit of oil into the cloth; less chance of blobbing it on another cloth, and big blob ending up on the cue. Then give the cue the lightest of rubs. I leave this film a bit, so it soaks in, then wipe any residue off, so there is no trace left on the surface.

[SouthPaw]

Thanks for the help folks, appreciate it^^

[ste bed]

If finished correctly, you dont really need oiling again.

Just keep clean and wipe with dry cloth.

If u choose to oil it then i would say once a year would be more than enough

i completely agree with jaffa i have a few cues which are 10 years old and just as good as the day i got them because i dont mess with the finish at all ie wire wool, sandpaper oils, if a cue is fnished properly then there is no need for oils.

[Wayne G]

If finished correctly, you dont really need oiling again.

Just keep clean and wipe with dry cloth.

If u choose to oil it then i would say once a year would be more than enough

This is exactly what Trevor White told me awhile back.

[Inoffthered]

This is exactly what Trevor White told me awhile back.

Yeah, Trevor's told me that also.

[thelongbomber]

The shafts canadian maple if that make's any difference? Though I wouldn't have thought so, i'll maybe just do it every 8 weeks or so...

Oh, for god's sake that's a definite no no - especially since you said it's maple. Ash takes oil well enough but once ever 3 months is all that is needed. Based on experience and my understanding of what linseed oil actually does, the more you oil a shaft, the stiffer it will eventually become because crystalization occurs once the oil's raw ingredients are deep within the cue. Read more about linseed oil here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil

One of my m8's has a 20 year old shaft that he has religiously oiled every several months. The shaft now plays like it's the oldest stiffest piece of ash u will ever find.

I recently had a maple cue redone by Kevin Deroo who is well known for putting out quality maple shafts. Send him an email or give him a ring and he might be able to give you more insight.

[Acrowot]

It is strange that a lot of you are always talking about oiling your cues. Trevor White says they never need oiling and we never, EVER oiled our cues in years gone by. They were always as the makers, usually Burroughes & Watts, made them. My Trevor White cues have been used now for almost two years and they are still as good as when he made them, with only a little wipe with a damp cloth (almost dry) and then a good rub with a micro-fibre cloth. Mine does not need wiping often as I do not have sweaty hands. The Olde Ash and Burwat Champion never had anything on them in over 20 years and they were still good when I stopped playing and wish now that had never sold they Olde Ash and the Burwat Champion was stolen.

[trevs1]

If you consider a bannister rail on an old staircase, and think about how smooth they become over time, WITHOUT THE USE OF ANY OIL, but rather, just a dusting with soft cloths, then that should give you some idea of what creates a smooth clean feel to a piece of hardwood.

The sudden appearance of "CUE OILS" is no more than a method of relieving people of some cash. There is no such things as "CUE OIL". These are generally available wood finishing oils, some perhaps mixed one type with another, but definitely no secret formula.

Many players like to feel they are doing something in order to protect their pride and joy, and will use anything which is advocated as "necessary" for the upkeep of their cue. The problem is, that oils can be as ruinous to the finish as they can be any kind of aid, and used too often, will result in a shaft which feels (and looks) like it's been dipped in treacle.

A dry cloth is your cue's best friend.

[SouthPaw]

Oh, for god's sake that's a definite no no - especially since you said it's maple. Ash takes oil well enough but once ever 3 months is all that is needed. Based on experience and my understanding of what linseed oil actually does, the more you oil a shaft, the stiffer it will eventually become because crystalization occurs once the oil's raw ingredients are deep within the cue. Read more about linseed oil here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil

One of my m8's has a 20 year old shaft that he has religiously oiled every several months. The shaft now plays like it's the oldest stiffest piece of ash u will ever find.

I recently had a maple cue redone by Kevin Deroo who is well known for putting out quality maple shafts. Send him an email or give him a ring and he might be able to give you more insight.

Thanks i'll look into that, just a bit confused as i've been given all sorts of information regarding what's best...

It is strange that a lot of you are always talking about oiling your cues. Trevor White says they never need oiling and we never, EVER oiled our cues in years gone by. They were always as the makers, usually Burroughes & Watts, made them. My Trevor White cues have been used now for almost two years and they are still as good as when he made them, with only a little wipe with a damp cloth (almost dry) and then a good rub with a micro-fibre cloth. Mine does not need wiping often as I do not have sweaty hands. The Olde Ash and Burwat Champion never had anything on them in over 20 years and they were still good when I stopped playing and wish now that had never sold they Olde Ash and the Burwat Champion was stolen.

I can understand what your implying, but still a little confused that many cuemaker's advise on treating their cues every 3-6 months, whilst others advice on using nothing but a cloth... for example from the parris websitehttps://www.parriscues.com/cue_care

If you consider a bannister rail on an old staircase, and think about how smooth they become over time, WITHOUT THE USE OF ANY OIL, but rather, just a dusting with soft cloths, then that should give you some idea of what creates a smooth clean feel to a piece of hardwood.

The sudden appearance of "CUE OILS" is no more than a method of relieving people of some cash. There is no such things as "CUE OIL". These are generally available wood finishing oils, some perhaps mixed one type with another, but definitely no secret formula.

Many players like to feel they are doing something in order to protect their pride and joy, and will use anything which is advocated as "necessary" for the upkeep of their cue. The problem is, that oils can be as ruinous to the finish as they can be any kind of aid, and used too often, will result in a shaft which feels (and looks) like it's been dipped in treacle.

A dry cloth is your cue's best friend.

You've hit the nail in the head for me, after investing in a decent cue a feel i need to protect it, whether oiling it is a good thing or not i'm going to look into it further thanks to this thread, i found it strange that the guy that made my cue recommended to oil regularly which is why i started this, going to see him again shortly and see if i got the wrong end of the stick(excuse the pun lol) I'm thinking he meant maybe he cleans his cues with raw linseed oil by wiping a little on a cloth each week and drying straight off just to clean it, and treating it(overnight) every half year or so but i'll find out in more detail. I feel personally i might do once or twice a year very lightly mind...

[coomsey76]

Well I don't think you'll get any better advice then that from Trevs1......

In all the the years I have been playing I've never felt the need to re-oil my cue a good wipe with a damp cloth and then dry cloth like most have said has always done the job for me!!

I'd be very surprised if your cue maker would suggest putting raw linseed oil on once to clean it cause a damp/dry cloth would do this job just as well...... but I suppose everybody has different ideas on what works and what doesn't......

But just keep in mind that you think you might doing the right thing and helping protect your pride and joy by oiling it but in the long run you could be ruining it if you don't do it right!!

[Acrowot]

SouthPaw, just buy one of Trev's cues and it will save you the trouble for many years to come!

[milos1]

Linseed oiling cue....

When you are applying raw linseed oil to your cue do you apply to the ebony butt as well? Thanks