Cue Retip Waiting time?

[Dknox1]

After I've retipped my cue, how long should/can I wait before using it? Thanks

[snooks1000]

I put mine on with superglue gel. Wait around 10 mins before I trim/shape it and then it's ready to play. So approx 20 mins after I've glued it on. And I've not had one come off yet.

[Dknox1]

OK that's fine, some places have said to wait like 12 hours, but perhaps this advice is regarding tip cement?

[SouthPaw]

Yeah superglue is fast drying compared to the cement etc, it's as good as anything imo and 10mins it's good to go...

[snooks1000]

I hate that cue tip cement. Never got on with it and have to clamp the tip for hours etc, and then it usually just falls off

[narl]

I hate that cue tip cement. Never got on with it and have to clamp the tip for hours etc, and then it usually just falls off

Takes hours to stick and has the sticking power of a well chewed piece of gum. Dunno why it's even sold as superglue is infinitely better.

[snooks1000]

I must admit, I do like the superglue gel. Get a fair bit more time to get the tip in place before it sets. Unlike water based superglue which sets in seconds. I also think the gel doesn't dry as brittle

[Terry Davidson]

If you use the Tweeten's glue then 12hrs is recommended. Super Glue is a matter of minutes. The epoxy cement I use takes about 30 minutes to set and then I shape the tip. I've never had a tip loosen on one side or come off the epoxy however when I used Tweeten's this happened to me all the time, especially after a few mis-cues.

Even after 6 months use, I have to cut off my old tips and I've never found chalk underneath them with the epoxy. I have had tips come loose using the super glue gel before after a couple of bad mis-cues.

Terry

[bricktip]

I used to use Evostick back in the day. I wonder if anyone uses this now. It had a nice soft feel, as it never went fully hard.

[Particle Physics]

I used to use Evostick back in the day. I wonder if anyone uses this now. It had a nice soft feel, as it never went fully hard.

Some interesting glues being discussed here. I wouldn't mind trying a bit of epoxy some day, but it would need a clamp I guess Terry? Not sure about using contact adhesive, such as Evo, would the tip fall off eventually?

If you're using superglue, wait at least an hour before filing, and then playing. The leather tip soaks up glue, and has no exit point once the glue at the edge of the tip dries out, so it takes more than just a few minutes to cure at the centre. If you put a tip on with superglue and hold for half a minute, then pull that tip off, which isn't difficult (that should raise alarm bells if nothing else) you will see the middle is still wet. Tips generally fall off because folk haven't done something right, and being hasty with the file and eager to play with it, can cause trouble IME.

[poona]

It's all about the preparation. Make sure the top of the ferrule/cue plane is clean and free of any residue before even attempting to apply a new tip. Superglue gel works best and has served me well for 15+ years of tipping.

[Acrowot]

I know that Terry uses epoxy, but I would not dream of it. I have around 15 types of glue and use them mostly building radio controlled model planes. The epoxy is usually only used for fixing the "Firewall", which is where the engine is fixed to, so it certainly is good glue, if you buy the correct make of it, which is not normally sold in the usual shops. There certainly is nothing wrong with superglue gel, as some of the others have said.

[Particle Physics]

I know that Terry uses epoxy, but I would not dream of it. I have around 15 types of glue and use them mostly building radio controlled model planes. The epoxy is usually only used for fixing the "Firewall", which is where the engine is fixed to, so it certainly is good glue, if you buy the correct make of it, which is not normally sold in the usual shops. There certainly is nothing wrong with superglue gel, as some of the others have said.

Mate, which epoxy are you referring to? Any brand?