Protecting cue shafts from chalk wear

[Siz]

I am trying to protect the top of my ash cue from chalk abrasion wear near the ferrule.

I was thinking of applying some sort of clear hard coating to the top inch of the shaft - perhaps the sort of stuff that cheap maple / ramin cues often seem to be finished with. Any thoughts on whether this would work work, and if so what I should use? This would be a one-off job (and I don't have a respirator or UV equipment!)

Thanks in advance

Siz

PS
I know I should probably chalk more carefully but I don't think this old dog will learn any new tricks in that department.

[grimreaper]

I found the best way to stop that from happening is to tilt the cue when chaulking.

[DeanH]

as grimreaper said, tilt the cue when chalking so most of the dust does not go onto the shaft, also have a dry cotton cloth in your case to wipe the cue down. Always wipe the cue down when you put it away but you can always give it a wipe during play and between frames.
I would not add a coating to the end of the shaft, you will probably notice this instead of the shot you are attempting.

[jim evans]

answer is take more care when chalking

[caesar]

When the worn area of the chalk gets too deep, either discard the chalk and move on to a new piece, or sand the whole chalk down until the divot is shallow.

[Terry Davidson]

caesar has it correct. You should wipe the chalk across the tip and not touch the ferrule at all. You'll get a 4-pointed star in the chalk and then sand a bit off it to make the hales a little more shallow and carry on that way until the chalk is too short.

If you look at the sides of the star pattern and see a dark bit near the top then you are hitting the ferrule with the chalk and it's time to either get a new piece or sand that one down.

Terry

[Siz]

Protecting cue shafts from chalk wear

Thanks to all, Caesar & Terry particularly.

I don't much like using brand new chalk but I had not heard of anyone sanding down old pieces before.

I will give it a go!

[Particle Physics]

Thanks to all, Caesar & Terry particularly.

I don't much like using brand new chalk but I had not heard of anyone sanding down old pieces before.

I will give it a go!

You can also put a thin layer of superglue gel on the ferrule, near the tip, the next time you retip your cue. This is a hard substance, and it's cheap and easy to apply, and dried quickly.

[flame]

You can also put a thin layer of superglue gel on the ferrule, near the tip, the next time you retip your cue. This is a hard substance, and it's cheap and easy to apply, and dried quickly.

that won't prevent chalk getting on the shaft itself, Siz just take on board what as already been adviced.

[thelongbomber]

Thanks to all, Caesar & Terry particularly.

I don't much like using brand new chalk but I had not heard of anyone sanding down old pieces before.

I will give it a go!

I just go out the sidewalk (find a clean spot!) and vigorously rub the face of the chalk against it until wears down. Rain will take care of the rest.

[thelongbomber]

Something simpler than applying a clearcoat is using clear low gloss packing tape. I did that for a while cause I was getting tired of seeing scratch marks on the nice shiny brass ferrule.

[eaoin11]

You can also put a thin layer of superglue gel on the ferrule, near the tip, the next time you retip your cue. This is a hard substance, and it's cheap and easy to apply, and dried quickly.

Brilliant!