Help on selecting a new cue - several questions

[MartinB]

Hi everyone.

my first time here - I'm an enthusiastic beginner (and I do mean
beginner, highest break is an incredible 18...). I'm currently playing
with a very cheap 1/2 split Riley cue and whenever I borrow someone
else's cue, I get the feeling that my cue is a bit annoying (it is very
light and it vibrates extremely on every shot).

So I'm looking for a new one and of course have a bunch of questions.

So, what is more reasonable: Buy a more expensive cue right now and
stick with it (no need to change later on) or buy a not-so expensive
one now and choose another one when my game has improved (if ever)?

On looking around (and reading a lot on the forum here), I've selected
a few possibilities (my upper prize limit is around 200 Euro, that's
the "more expensive" option). I went for plain-looking cues because I
assume that inlays and veneer and stuff don't affect how the cue
plays, just how it looks. Is that even right? Or do the inlays change
the way a cue plays in some manner?

And here are a bunch of cues I've found (some of them through
recommendations here on the forum). Any input on those would be
helpful. I'd prefer a cue that does not have varnish or coloration or
so on it (on my old cue, I sandpapered all the varnish away from the
front part), if this is possible - the more "wood feeling" it has, the better.

Phoenix cue # 10
http://www.craftsmancues.com/acatalo...iced_cues.html

Craftsman cue 147 cue
http://www.craftsmancues.com/acatalo...ight_away.html

Peradon Royal
http://touchingball.de/shop/shop/ind...roducts_id=283
(Is it true that Peradon cues are painted black at the ebony butt end?)

http://www.greenbaize.com/mastercue.htm
Mastercue PB1

http://www.mastercraft-cues.co.uk/30....php?p=2&pno=0
Black Prince

Of course I know that there is no single right answer, but any help
will be appreciated.

Thanks a lot for all answers,

Martin.

[sberry]

Depends on your position, do you mind spending a couple of hundred and finding out that it is not for you? If this happens you could go through the bother of selling it, probably making a loss and buying something else or if the money doesn't matter, just buy another, etc.

It would be better if you could go to a shop that has a big selection and try them for feel, it has to be better doing that than buying them 'blind'.

Then again, it's more the person behind the stick than the stick itself so with my experiences I would suggest you spend 40-50 at most and spend the rest on table time or a lesson or few, if you do improve and decide to play a lot more and even think of competitive play whether it's leagues or KOs, then you will have more knowledge of what you might want or need. At this stage you're still in the learning the game bit so as long as it's straight, half decent and has a good tip it will do you.

[ADR147]

how sure are you that are going to get the use out of the cue and not give up playing in a few months? i can help you with a cue for sure but i would think a £50 chinese cue is maybe a better way to go unless you are sure of what you need.

[MartinB]

I'm quite sure I won't be quitting any time soon, that's why I had the idea of "growing into the cue".

Still, if I settle for the lower price range, is there anything you could recommend? (Trying cues out is difficult here in Germany, not many snooker cue sellers around.)

adr147, I see that you have the mastercraft cue on your list, so I assume that is a good one?

[ADR147]

I'm quite sure I won't be quitting any time soon, that's why I had the idea of "growing into the cue".

Still, if I settle for the lower price range, is there anything you could recommend? (Trying cues out is difficult here in Germany, not many snooker cue sellers around.)

adr147, I see that you have the mastercraft cue on your list, so I assume that is a good one?

yes but i have many many others!

[MartinB]

Seems they are not visible on ebay (I see only 12 cues there)? Can I see them somewhere?

And BTW, since you seem to be the expert around, is my assumption that inlays etc. don't affect the cue behaviour, just its looks, correct?

[willtyson]

Although I'm not an expert like ADR, splices and inlays don't affect the playability of the cue at all from my experiance.

[ADR147]

Seems they are not visible on ebay (I see only 12 cues there)? Can I see them somewhere?

And BTW, since you seem to be the expert around, is my assumption that inlays etc. don't affect the cue behaviour, just its looks, correct?

no splices are really for decoration. have a look on here - there are a few pages of cheap cues somewhere. http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...rent+selection

[Raldon]

So, what is more reasonable: Buy a more expensive cue right now and
stick with it (no need to change later on) or buy a not-so expensive
one now and choose another one when my game has improved (if ever)?

Players are very different with cues. Some changing cues like socks, some stick with a cheap one for life etc.

Because you made this post, i think you are a guy who probably will try different cues over a time. So my recommendation is to get a good "beginner" cue. Time will show your snooker progress.

Where are you in Germany?
Maybe i can help you.

[MartinB]

@adr147
Wow, lots of cues in there, for sure. I'm moving my question on what you have over there, where it probably fits better.

@Raldon
I'm in Braunschweig. And actually, so far my plan was to buy a good cue once and stick to it - since it seems that most people say that if you get better, you get more used to your cue and find it more difficult to change, I think it best to start with a good cue right now and have no need to change it soon.

[Raldon]

ok, good luck :snooker:

btw: Probably i am in Braunschweig the 18th November at the BSB

[MartinB]

Hey, that's my club; don't know if I'll be there at that day. though.