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  • #16
    Hi

    If I were you I would call John Parris and get some advice. He's pretty open to to discussion if you explain your circumstances. His number is (+44 uk) 0208 291 6288. The 0000 wire wool idea is also a pretty good call but I don't think it would get all of the fibres out. The biggest issue you have is that the linseed oil is extremely sticky and has caught the fibres in the gaps in the ash.

    Chat with John though and he might give a better alternative.

    Good luck with the cue and the French final

    Chris

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    • #17
      OK folks, new episode lol

      I gave a try to the white spirit but with mixed results. Indeed, I had a better feeling, it felt much smoother but the patchy aspect was still there. The fibers were still glued to the wood when you looked closely. So I decided to go with the wire wool and I gently removed the sticky layer, plain and simple. It took me some time and precautions but I got rid of the sticky layer. Now of course the wood is much more exposed, almost 'naked' if I can say so I think the next step will be to re-oil the cue properly to get a nice finish and offer a new protection to the wood.
      Do you think I should re-use the linseed oil (in far less quantity of course) or should I go with some kind of cue doctor oil like the one sold by Mike Woolridge for example?
      Ton Praram III Series 1 | 58" 18.4oz 9.4mm | ash shaft + 4 splices of Brazilian Rosewood | Grand Cue medium tips

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      • #18
        is it just the butt or all the cue now,if you have took all the finish of the whole cue you need to reseal it with a sanding sealer before you put any oil on

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        • #19
          Hi

          I would be very careful using linseed oil. Although it does feed the cue really well, it's tough to use if you haven't had the experience. You could always try a sponge with a little linseed oil. That way you shouldn't see any fibres sticking to the cue. You could also use cue slide which you can pick up from Parris cues, Craftsman cues of Leeds or Mike Wooldridge.

          If I'm honest the best way to get a nice smooth feel is to wipe the linseed oil off with a warm, damp sponge, leave the cue naked and get plenty of practise? the natural oils in your skin over time make it feel really smooth. As long as your cue is kept in a decent room temp environment and in its case you should be fine.

          Sounds like it just needs a little TLC.

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          • #20
            Hi , I have been reading this thread with interest !! I agree with the reply that suggested the cue had been waxed ?? I have always used meths to clean and not white spirit , they both do the same job just my preference !! I use shellac to seal , with a little linseed to lubricate but never use a micro cloth or yellow duster when applying as the fibres come out too easily . Use an old cotton hanky and place in a sealed plastic bag ready for the next time you want to do the same job . Remember a little goes a long way and feel free to ask Qs

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            • #21
              Originally Posted by jim evans View Post
              is it just the butt or all the cue now,if you have took all the finish of the whole cue you need to reseal it with a sanding sealer before you put any oil on
              The whole cue is naked now. where could I find that type of sealing? DIY store?
              Ton Praram III Series 1 | 58" 18.4oz 9.4mm | ash shaft + 4 splices of Brazilian Rosewood | Grand Cue medium tips

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              • #22
                Sanding sealer is available in all DIY stores , dont go overboard with it though !! PS , your linseed oil will do much the same job
                PPS do you still have fibres trapped in the grain from your micro cloth ??

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                • #23
                  Your cue was sticky because you over oiled it, i use a piece of kitchen towel to put oil on and never had a problem with it, if cue is naked give it one good coat and leave it 10 mins, if it feels dry put a light coat on and leave again, if you come back and it feels wet get a bar towel and give it a good rub leave abit and rub again

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                  • #24
                    Originally Posted by tomeestrings View Post
                    Sanding sealer is available in all DIY stores , dont go overboard with it though !! PS , your linseed oil will do much the same job
                    PPS do you still have fibres trapped in the grain from your micro cloth ??
                    No, I removed probably 95% of all the micro fibers. looks pretty good right now. Just need to get re-oiled.
                    Ton Praram III Series 1 | 58" 18.4oz 9.4mm | ash shaft + 4 splices of Brazilian Rosewood | Grand Cue medium tips

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                    • #25
                      Nice one !! Just put it down as a school boy error and do what you do best !!! Good luck with forthcoming tournament

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                      • #26
                        Thanks mate! Will try my best to get through a couple of rounds.

                        But you know the worst here is that I have already done this operation once and it worked fine at the time. But this time, I must have had a braincramp along the way to mess it up that much lol
                        Ton Praram III Series 1 | 58" 18.4oz 9.4mm | ash shaft + 4 splices of Brazilian Rosewood | Grand Cue medium tips

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                        • #27
                          OK lads, just a quick psot to give you the epilogue of my adventures

                          Finally I managed to gently remove all the finish on the cue. All the dry oil coat, the little fibers...Everything....to get to bare wood again. Plain & simple. then I sollicited Mike Woolridge's advice as to what exactly apply on the cue and he kindly answered me with many details and tips. So I decided to order some of his own oil cue (Thx ADR147 on that one). I took time to get through the Post but it finally made it so I could follow Mike's advices.

                          I cleaned the cue with a damp cloth before re-oiling the cue with a thin coat. Even after a mere hour, the result looked brilliant. The olive wood on the butt had its original golden aspect back and the ebony was really in better shape. I applied a 2nd coat 24hrs later, a thin one again, and it was enough. No need to put more. 24 hrs later, it was finish and the cue looks as new now. The feeling is really great, really smooth. Mike told me to wipe the cue as often as possible with a clean and dry cloth to help the finish to mature properly. Within months it should be close to perfection.

                          I want to thank everyone who got involved here, many good advices and infos! And I really recommend Mike's Cue oil, the product is really top notch! Much much better than the raw linseed oil I had before.
                          I have the impression to have received a brand new JP Superior now....can't wait to go to the club tomorrow! Preparation for the French Cup is starting!
                          Ton Praram III Series 1 | 58" 18.4oz 9.4mm | ash shaft + 4 splices of Brazilian Rosewood | Grand Cue medium tips

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