Re-glue Joint

[j6uk]

Yes ferrules on and I'm feeling more confident now Iv managed to get shaft joint end flush and straight and ready for the joint cap..
I get problems with dug-out. What do you think of oiling the cue before tapering to prevent plane digging?

[jim evans]

no dry wood for planeing

[j6uk]

So a thicker blade and sharp sharp

[jim evans]

invest in a small 4 1/2 -5 ins plane worth its weight in gold to you

[j6uk]

I have a draper no4 smoothing plane which I leveled and moved the frog forwards to close the mouth. Still get tearout even with a razor sharp standard blade. So iv now ordered a 3mm thick blade.

invest in a small 4 1/2 -5 ins plane worth its weight in gold to you

[RogiBear]

invest in a small 4 1/2 -5 ins plane worth its weight in gold to you

Sorry to butt in, so would you recommend a low angle block plane or a small smoothing plane with high frog angle for this type of work?

[jim evans]

low angle block plane,if you need any less wood taking off sanding or scraping will do

[RogiBear]

low angle block plane,if you need any less wood taking off sanding or scraping will do

Ended up passing Axminster today and bought myself a little present from LN. Damn they're good

[j6uk]

All done and straight. Thinking now of what to use to blend the whiter shaft in with the yellowy ash on the butt.
Will also need to line up the grains on the joint, was thinking of turning the shaft on the drill and use a razor blade to take some of the brass off the joint, not sure though..
1.JPG 2.JPG 3.JPG

[RogiBear]

Looks pretty good that. I think it might be easier to just refinish it all, so it would be a uniform colour rather than matching.

[j6uk]

Thanks,
The shaft is so much whiter and I think I may need a stain to get it to a close match.
I don't know how to refinish to get the uniform color.

Looks pretty good that. I think it might be easier to just refinish it all, so it would be a uniform colour rather than matching.

[RogiBear]

Thanks,
The shaft is so much whiter and I think I may need a stain to get it to a close match.
I don't know how to refinish to get the uniform color.

It's still a little trial and error. The way I would do it, is to strip the ash on the butt of its finish likewise anything still on the shaft. Make sure the grain has been filled. I would start with plain linseed oil first and see how the close the colour match is after. If it's the same then just carry on. If not then experiment with either darker oil mixtures or by applying more coats on the lighter part to build up the colour over time.

[j6uk]

Have you done this many times before, matching lighter and darker ash?

It's still a little trial and error. The way I would do it, is to strip the ash on the butt of its finish likewise anything still on the shaft. Make sure the grain has been filled. I would start with plain linseed oil first and see how the close the colour match is after. If it's the same then just carry on. If not then experiment with either darker oil mixtures or by applying more coats on the lighter part to build up the colour over time.

[RogiBear]

I've had a similar situation where a friend of mine had damaged the butt of his cue at the joint by tripping over it. He found a replacement butt and I refinished it. I used linseed on the butt and MW cue oil on the shaft as I find it darkens a little with this. Luckily it went quite smoothly. Others that have more experience than me may offer an alternative method

[j6uk]

Thanks for that.
Because its so much lighter on the shaft I'm starting to think the only way to go is a dye of some sort.