Cue Care - Rough Finish

[Golden]

I've just purchased a new cue from a reputable cue maker and whilst the cue is perfect in it's specification, it appears to have a somewhat rougher finish than expected. I contacted the supplier who advised to use linseed oil and burnish after but it still seems a bit rough on the grain.

I would take it back to be refinished but they're miles away yet I can't afford to be without it for any prolonged period of time due as I've a ton of matches coming up.

Is there anything I can do myself to 'seal' the grain myself? I've had a Parris Ultimate which had a finish like glass so I know I'm not imagining it and it's starting to mess with my head

Any advice you can offer will be appreciated

[Dave Walton]

Just adding oil won't solve the problem. Its hard to say without seeing the cue but the grain may have swelled which would need to be sanded back, depending how bad it is the grain may also need refilling before putting a new oil finish on. No quick fix unfortunately. Best bet is to send it back and have the maker put it right or find a local cue doctor to do it for you. Sorry I know that's not the news you'll of wanted to hear

[Dave Walton]

If you want to seal/fill the grain yourself you can get aurora grain sealer on ebay. Or mix, sand sealer with a fine powder filler with wood dye to create your own filler.

[stejohn]

some Ash is rougher/coarser than other, not to be said that all can't be finished to a high standard. Not easy to do unless you know what you are doing or have had a fair bit of practise, could be better in the long run to send it back imo.

[DeanH]

Cue Care - Rough Finish

I recently sent an old ash pool cue of mine that needed a touch of grain filler in places to Andy Travis. I checked with him before posting and he said he could do it before my league started. It came back in plenty of time and is lovely and smooth all over. Good price as well.

[Terry Davidson]

I have had a few rough feeling cues here and I solved this problem using 1,000 and 2,000 grit emery paper. I couldn't find what I wanted in a wood working place but did find it in an auto body finishing place.

I just used the emery and kept turning the cue on every stroke and since it's so fine you can't do much damage and it makes everything silky smooth. I then applied a couple of very thin coats of cue oil.

The problem is you will go through a lot of the emery as it clogs up pretty fast and you only get about 10 strokes from each piece so I cut it up into smaller pieces. It did work a treat for me.

Terry

[Mr Badger]

New handmade quality cues need constant burnishing for a while until the wood absorbs the oil and hardens up. Just get a piece of A4paper and rub the shaft furiously to generate a little heat. It'll seal the wood and help the oil set. It may take a few days or a couple of weeks to settle it fully. I have a new cue that I'm in the process of doing exactly that to. Be patient and don't use sandpaper on a cue, ever.

[Dave Walton]

New handmade quality cues need constant burnishing for a while until the wood absorbs the oil and hardens up. Just get a piece of A4paper and rub the shaft furiously to generate a little heat. It'll seal the wood and help the oil set. It may take a few days or a couple of weeks to settle it fully. I have a new cue that I'm in the process of doing exactly that to. Be patient and don't use sandpaper on a cue, ever.

A new quality handmade cue should be properly finished before it leaves the workshop. It can take months for an oil finish to fully cure but a new cue should not need burnishing, oiled or anything else, if finished properly in the first place. As for not using sand paper on a cue ever! If your cue needs to be re-finished for whatever reason, be it the filler has come out of the grain, the grain has raised due to cold/moisture or the cue has warped and had to be straightened it will need to be sanded to finish the cue properly. I agree you shouldn't sand just because your cue feels sticky. Plenty of examples of sanding a cue being nessacery though!

[Mr Badger]

I wouldn't disagree with that. I just see people turning to sandpaper all too quickly when it isn't necessary. If mine had to see sandpaper to put it right, it would be going back for refinishing by the maker.

[Dave Walton]

I wouldn't disagree with that. I just see people turning to sandpaper all too quickly when it isn't necessary. If mine had to see sandpaper to put it right, it would be going back for refinishing by the maker.

Yeah I know what you mean, I certainly wouldn't advise sanding unless re-finishing your cue and still only if you know what you're doing. Still better to send it to an expert cuemaker

[Golden]

Thank you for all your replies. On further inspection it appears the roughness is due to the grain not being filled in spectacularly well

Another trip back to the cuemakers it seems . .

Would re-oiling and burnishing make a difference or does it require something a little more professional?

[DeanH]

oiling and buffing over a rough grain area will not fix the problem
hence I sent my cue to AT
who is the cuemaker of your cue?

[Lee Collier]

I'm having trouble on the other end of the cue .Too slippy, help please ?

[sanman]

I'm having trouble on the other end of the cue .Too slippy, help please ?

If u=it is lacquered then that would explain a lot. in which case you would have to remove that ,laquer