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Originally Posted by JasonOwen View PostAh I should just disappear like the rest,
I have been honest.
I have got my housekeeping in order mainly so that when this subject pops up again I won't have to get involved, whichever way I'm working.
I have spoken privately to anyone concerned with their cue.
I have had some orders cancelled.
Any quotes I've done this week, I've added a foot note saying I may source materials from Thailand.
I have to say, no other makers are divulging if they work from blanks, where they buy their materials from??
I didn't realise the implications of Handmade being on my badges. It was something back when I started that just seemed natural to state. Now I realise that hand made implies everything including tapering the shaft from a square, I have removed it from everywhere associated with me, my badges will be reworked but will take a month to come through so there will be a delay on that.
I have been naive, not intentionally deceitful. I have only ever wanted to produce a top quality product.
My prices are similar range to the customised cues.
Top man Jason .
Honest and to the point .Still trying to pot as many balls as i can !
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Originally Posted by Dave Walton View PostOriginally Posted by archalf1471 View PostOriginally Posted by mythman69 View PostOriginally Posted by archalf1471 View Postultimately any of these threads that continue in this vain where cuemaker/suppliers integrity is being called into question will be closed down by the site admin, the same as last night's thread was, so I think all the hard work and contributions correct or speculative by all concerned and will leave a lot of potential customers very confused to say the least
Yes mythman I am. Have had it up on a couple of occasions. Firstly before the two threads were started.........hopeful rather than optimistic is a term I think I will use now lolIts not how well you play its how good you look playing that counts!
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Well said Jason. You've done way more than most. I don't think anyone should be put off from buying a cue off you in the future.
To be transparent to all who may consider one of my cues...
My badges state HANDMADE because they are. I drive to the timber yards to pick up the 1-1/2" squares of ash/maple/pearwood whatever. They are taken from square to round in my garage by me alone by using a bandsaw and planes and a belt sander. If you order a 1 piece cue from me, the shaft wood is 1 continuous piece for those of you who are concerned about this. This is the way I prefer it but I have had to extend a cue before when at the 11th hour the customer wanted additional splices added and the cue was already at its finished length.
They are then spliced using the traditional hand plane method.
As stated in the other thread I buy on my joints because a CNC lathe can make them faster and better than I can given the tooling I have. I also get a local sign maker to make my badges as they are laser engraved and I don't have a laser engraver in my garage.
I hope all this doesn't put customers off from investing in local craftsmanship.
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Originally Posted by Exile View PostWell said Jason. You've done way more than most. I don't think anyone should be put off from buying a cue off you in the future.
To be transparent to all who may consider one of my cues...
My badges state HANDMADE because they are. I drive to the timber yards to pick up the 1-1/2" squares of ash/maple/pearwood whatever. They are taken from square to round in my garage by me alone by using a bandsaw and planes and a belt sander. If you order a 1 piece cue from me, the shaft wood is 1 continuous piece for those of you who are concerned about this. This is the way I prefer it but I have had to extend a cue before when at the 11th hour the customer wanted additional splices added and the cue was already at its finished length.
They are then spliced using the traditional hand plane method.
As stated in the other thread I buy on my joints because a CNC lathe can make them faster and better than I can given the tooling I have. I also get a local sign maker to make my badges as they are laser engraved and I don't have a laser engraver in my garage.
I hope all this doesn't put customers off from investing in local craftsmanship.
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Originally Posted by golferson123 View Postwell lads, after my handmade dinner.several pints of handmade tetleys im going in my handmade bed for a couple of hours kip before getting up at daftoclock to peddle my handmade car to the quarry to crush some rocks, yours f flinstone.Its not how well you play its how good you look playing that counts!
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A few points -
The Thai cues which I have handled, I still had to taper the top down slightly as I felt they were too thick around the bridge hand, ferrule and tip, drill and weight, add a joint, completely finish the bottom of the butt, sand the whole cue down to a finish that I considered worthy, then oil and rub over a week to get my finish.
It wasn't, for me, a rebadge and bang out. Actually involved alot of work.
So tell me, if I hand taper the ash squares that I have here, get a decent looking shaft and then make a cue from that, then that is a truely handmade cue, correct. Now how many of you will pay me £600 for the finished cue?
I bet I'd sell none.
Now if I buy 10 Thai cues and work as stated above, badge them as 'Jason Owen Ti cues' then put them up for £250 each.
I can tell you, once word got out I would sell 10 a month.
Regarding Andy Travis cue, I cut a 58inch shaft before splicing at around 12 inches, then drill 6 inches into the top part of the shaft, add weight and then dowell the 2 back together. The best cue maker in the country taught me that very early on after I kept splitting butts with an 18 inch long drill bit. So explains why possibly there is a difference under the splices.
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Originally Posted by JasonOwen View PostA few points -
The Thai cues which I have handled, I still had to taper the top down slightly as I felt they were too thick around the bridge hand, ferrule and tip, drill and weight, add a joint, completely finish the bottom of the butt, sand the whole cue down to a finish that I considered worthy, then oil and rub over a week to get my finish.
It wasn't, for me, a rebadge and bang out. Actually involved alot of work.
So tell me, if I hand taper the ash squares that I have here, get a decent looking shaft and then make a cue from that, then that is a truely handmade cue, correct. Now how many of you will pay me £600 for the finished cue?
I bet I'd sell none.
Now if I buy 10 Thai cues and work as stated above, badge them as 'Jason Owen Ti cues' then put them up for £250 each.
I can tell you, once word got out I would sell 10 a month.
Regarding Andy Travis cue, I cut a 58inch shaft before splicing at around 12 inches, then drill 6 inches into the top part of the shaft, add weight and then dowell the 2 back together. The best cue maker in the country taught me that very early on after I kept splitting butts with an 18 inch long drill bit. So explains why possibly there is a difference under the splices.
Now some of the truth has came out i would happily pay for something from you, under the proviso nothing was hidden from me, i have absolutely no problem with plain ash blanks being brought from thailand oversized for you to splice, weight and finish the cue as long as its priced accordinglyLast edited by luke-h; 28 July 2013, 01:23 PM.
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Originally Posted by JasonOwen View PostA few points -
The Thai cues which I have handled, I still had to taper the top down slightly as I felt they were too thick around the bridge hand, ferrule and tip, drill and weight, add a joint, completely finish the bottom of the butt, sand the whole cue down to a finish that I considered worthy, then oil and rub over a week to get my finish.
It wasn't, for me, a rebadge and bang out. Actually involved alot of work.
So tell me, if I hand taper the ash squares that I have here, get a decent looking shaft and then make a cue from that, then that is a truely handmade cue, correct. Now how many of you will pay me £600 for the finished cue?
I bet I'd sell none.
Now if I buy 10 Thai cues and work as stated above, badge them as 'Jason Owen Ti cues' then put them up for £250 each.
I can tell you, once word got out I would sell 10 a month.
Regarding Andy Travis cue, I cut a 58inch shaft before splicing at around 12 inches, then drill 6 inches into the top part of the shaft, add weight and then dowell the 2 back together. The best cue maker in the country taught me that very early on after I kept splitting butts with an 18 inch long drill bit. So explains why possibly there is a difference under the splices.
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Originally Posted by luke-h View PostNow some of the truth has came out i would happily pay for something from you, under the proviso nothing was hidden from me, i have absolutely no problem with plain ash blanks being brought from thailand oversized for you to splice, weight and finish the cueDon't let the fear of losing be greater than the excitement of winning...
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Originally Posted by RogiBear View PostIf £600 is for a plain butt it might be a little high but I think people would willing to pay a premium for a cue that was completely handmade from squares.
Not from a relatively new cue maker i doubt it very much, maybe someone like Trevor W or Dave C who has many years of experience and reputation...Don't let the fear of losing be greater than the excitement of winning...
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