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A simple question I had a look at a JP cue at our club and I was a bit surprised at the estimated value and also had a look on eBay and was a bit surprised there as well at the prices sellers were asking they are nice cue but surely they are over priced and are they a lot of fakes out there.
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John Parris has done a good job over the years promoting his cues, they are expensive new, and because of his promotion hold there value better than most cues. Ultimates can sell second hand for more than new price too, because of waiting time saved (up to 24 months wait)
Fakes are out there but usually easy to spot -
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See the waiting time as part of the experience. Most top class handmade items have long waiting times, music instruments, sport cars...Comment
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lol yep - and i would pay extra to get those quicker as well!Originally Posted by svendh View PostComment
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i think even my wife could tell the difference between a ferrari and a vauxhall!!Originally Posted by svendh View PostComment
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ADR, can you let us know what to look out for in real/fake Parris cues?Comment
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I wish it were that easy, the red glue used to help! now you need to check the joint if there is one and the butt joints plus the fakes usually either have the badge size wrong, it should be 16mm or the colour wrong, it is not white it is an off white cream colour or the quality of the writing is usually poor. there is also a sort of feel to the parris finish which the fakes don't have but that is hard to explain!Originally Posted by humperdingle View PostComment
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The shape of the butt end is very distinctive too.Tear up that manure-fed astroturf!Comment
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Most early Parris 3/4 were made as a one piece and jointed after , usually at 12" , although I have one jointed at 11 1/2" , but that is a JP Special , therefore they often come out lighter at say 17 - 18 oz and most did not have butt joints either. So a lightweight , low jointed, non s.d. unaltered early Parris is often easier to spot.Comment
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