Originally Posted by jrc750
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Stu works his magic again !
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Originally Posted by Dave Walton View PostCheers, takes me quite a bit longer than it does Stu though lol, creating a tenon by hand with a pipe cutter, Stanley knife and a file takes patience lol. I've done similar jobs using boot polish to re-darken the grain
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Originally Posted by jrc750 View Post
I don't know what the design should be though - I've heard rumours his v2 (wip) guide will include pictures, which will help.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Old cue collector --
Cue Sales: http://oldcues.co.uk/index.php?id=for_sale_specials
(yes I know they're not cheap, I didn't intend them to be!..)
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Originally Posted by perpetualboredom View PostI've never see one h/s at all, yet in Gordon's cue auction guide, he's seen 8 vs 25 m/s cues.
I don't know what the design should be though - I've heard rumours his v2 (wip) guide will include pictures, which will help.
Mine is in the best condition
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Buy one for about 20 quid - well worth it. It has saved me more than that many times over already.
My favourite players: Walter Lindrum (AUS), Neil Robertson (AUS), Eddie Charlton (AUS), Robby Foldvari (AUS), Vinnie Calabrese (AUS), Jimmy White, Stephen Hendry, Alex Higgins, Ronnie O'Sullivan, Dominic Dale and Barry Hawkins.
I dream of a 147 (but would be happy with a 100)
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Originally Posted by SouthPaw View PostLooks a good job, do you like a more domed tip or is that how Stu does all his re-tips..?
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Originally Posted by the nugget View PostOriginally Posted by Dave Walton View PostCheers, takes me quite a bit longer than it does Stu though lol, creating a tenon by hand with a pipe cutter, Stanley knife and a file takes patience lol. I've done similar jobs using boot polish to re-darken the grain
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Just thought I would add to this , I use alloy tubes that vary in diameter that slot over the shaft I first tape the shaft with elec tape to create a snug fit then cut the base I don't use Stanley blades !! I use the one sided safety blades with the alloy wrap on the top (far Sharper ) !! roll the blade around the edge of the metal tube until you are happy that you have created the perfect line for the base cut !!! Remove the tube and tape , continue the cutting rolling the blade around the circumference and then start to form the tenon
NUff said T
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Originally Posted by tomeestrings View PostJust thought I would add to this , I use alloy tubes that vary in diameter that slot over the shaft I first tape the shaft with elec tape to create a snug fit then cut the base I don't use Stanley blades !! I use the one sided safety blades with the alloy wrap on the top (far Sharper ) !! roll the blade around the edge of the metal tube until you are happy that you have created the perfect line for the base cut !!! Remove the tube and tape , continue the cutting rolling the blade around the circumference and then start to form the tenon
NUff said T
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Originally Posted by tomeestrings View PostPS the tenon doesn't need to be perfectly round especially if the ferrule is threaded Epoxy resin is best and takes longer to cure than than it does to cut the tenon !!
Back to the point though, great job Stu
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The only reason I use blades to cut the shoulder is purely for accuracy and perfection .. Have tried pipe cutters but they are not nearly as accurate . Also using superglue gel , well you only get one chance to adjust the ferrule before it sets but with epoxy at least you have a more controlled window in which to make any slight adjustments lol . I have used superglue gel for one only ferrule job but believe it is not the best method for this type of work !!!
Agreed great job done by Stu .
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