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Stu works his magic again !

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  • #16
    Originally Posted by jrc750 View Post
    Originally Posted by Dave Walton View Post
    Close up of the ferrule. Its an old Murton of Newcastle cue
    Nice job ....
    Cheers, takes me quite a bit longer than it does Stu though lol, creating a tenon by hand with a pipe cutter, Stanley knife and a file takes patience lol. I've done similar jobs using boot polish to re-darken the grain

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    • #17
      Originally Posted by Dave Walton View Post
      Cheers, takes me quite a bit longer than it does Stu though lol, creating a tenon by hand with a pipe cutter, Stanley knife and a file takes patience lol. I've done similar jobs using boot polish to re-darken the grain
      Hi Dave yep ive done quite a few with ol stanley file and sandpaper takes quite a bit of time if you want it perfect, never used a pipe cutter tho tell us more!

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      • #18
        Originally Posted by jrc750 View Post
        Is this one fairly rare Mike ?? must admit never seen a hand spliced Sydney cue lately in this design, but is virtually identical to a Cannon Match cue i have
        I've never see one h/s at all, yet in Gordon's cue auction guide, he's seen 8 vs 25 m/s cues.
        I don't know what the design should be though - I've heard rumours his v2 (wip) guide will include pictures, which will help.
        ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
        Old cue collector --
        Cue Sales: http://oldcues.co.uk/index.php?id=for_sale_specials
        (yes I know they're not cheap, I didn't intend them to be!..)
        ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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        • #19
          Hmm so a rare cue then, nice, value just went up

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          • #20
            Originally Posted by perpetualboredom View Post
            I've never see one h/s at all, yet in Gordon's cue auction guide, he's seen 8 vs 25 m/s cues.
            I don't know what the design should be though - I've heard rumours his v2 (wip) guide will include pictures, which will help.
            I havn't got the auction guide, how much do they sell for, min to max
            Mine is in the best condition

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            • #21
              Buy one for about 20 quid - well worth it. It has saved me more than that many times over already.

              My favourite players: Walter Lindrum (AUS), Neil Robertson (AUS), Eddie Charlton (AUS), Robby Foldvari (AUS), Vinnie Calabrese (AUS), Jimmy White, Stephen Hendry, Alex Higgins, Ronnie O'Sullivan, Dominic Dale and Barry Hawkins.
              I dream of a 147 (but would be happy with a 100)

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              • #22
                Looks a good job, do you like a more domed tip or is that how Stu does all his re-tips..?
                Don't let the fear of losing be greater than the excitement of winning...

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                • #23
                  Originally Posted by SouthPaw View Post
                  Looks a good job, do you like a more domed tip or is that how Stu does all his re-tips..?
                  Just the way Stu did it for me, elk tips on my old cues, MW supertips on my playing cue, that is not as domed as this, but maybe because they are harder than elks ?? the elk will squash down after a few frames ???

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                  • #24
                    Originally Posted by the nugget View Post
                    Originally Posted by Dave Walton View Post
                    Cheers, takes me quite a bit longer than it does Stu though lol, creating a tenon by hand with a pipe cutter, Stanley knife and a file takes patience lol. I've done similar jobs using boot polish to re-darken the grain
                    Hi Dave yep ive done quite a few with ol stanley file and sandpaper takes quite a bit of time if you want it perfect, never used a pipe cutter tho tell us more!
                    Alreet mate, the pipe cutter is to give you a perfect circle to work from for the base of the tenon, its actually a tip I picked up from Andy Gibb, you then file away above the line the cutter creates :-)

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                    • #25
                      Just thought I would add to this , I use alloy tubes that vary in diameter that slot over the shaft I first tape the shaft with elec tape to create a snug fit then cut the base I don't use Stanley blades !! I use the one sided safety blades with the alloy wrap on the top (far Sharper ) !! roll the blade around the edge of the metal tube until you are happy that you have created the perfect line for the base cut !!! Remove the tube and tape , continue the cutting rolling the blade around the circumference and then start to form the tenon
                      NUff said T

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                      • #26
                        PS the tenon doesn't need to be perfectly round especially if the ferrule is threaded Epoxy resin is best and takes longer to cure than than it does to cut the tenon !!

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                        • #27
                          Originally Posted by tomeestrings View Post
                          Just thought I would add to this , I use alloy tubes that vary in diameter that slot over the shaft I first tape the shaft with elec tape to create a snug fit then cut the base I don't use Stanley blades !! I use the one sided safety blades with the alloy wrap on the top (far Sharper ) !! roll the blade around the edge of the metal tube until you are happy that you have created the perfect line for the base cut !!! Remove the tube and tape , continue the cutting rolling the blade around the circumference and then start to form the tenon
                          NUff said T
                          Effectively what the pipe cutter does in about 10 seconds, I use the Stanley knife to tidy things up before gluing the ferrule, and after to trim any exposed tenon flush with the top of the ferrule.

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                          • #28
                            Originally Posted by tomeestrings View Post
                            PS the tenon doesn't need to be perfectly round especially if the ferrule is threaded Epoxy resin is best and takes longer to cure than than it does to cut the tenon !!
                            I agree it doesn't need to be perfectly round, even with plain band ferrules as the epoxy will fill any little gaps anyway. I tend to use epoxy, I've used loctite ultra gel superglue previously also with no problems.
                            Back to the point though, great job Stu

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                            • #29
                              The only reason I use blades to cut the shoulder is purely for accuracy and perfection .. Have tried pipe cutters but they are not nearly as accurate . Also using superglue gel , well you only get one chance to adjust the ferrule before it sets but with epoxy at least you have a more controlled window in which to make any slight adjustments lol . I have used superglue gel for one only ferrule job but believe it is not the best method for this type of work !!!

                              Agreed great job done by Stu .

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                              • #30
                                Just ordered a Maximus cue from Stu and I have to say his customer service skills are second to none. Nothing is too much trouble for him. Got the cue, mini butt, 20 Elks and saturday delivery for an amazing price. Cheers Stu!
                                #jeSuisByrom

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