Best oil to keep cue good

[sydneygeorge]

So do you just give your new cue clean with a cloth ?

You will be surprised at how much chalk residue remains on the cue including the butt after a couple of hours of play, even after you have wiped it down with a dry cloth.
Using a damp cloth in my experience doesn't help much and I feel if anything it creates a micro paste that you end up rubbing into the shaft and eventually colouring it green.
My solution to this is to wipe my entire cue down with what would amount a teaspoon of raw linseed oil after every playing session and then buffing it off with a clean dry cotton cloth, the amount of chalk residue that comes off is substantial and every time I pick the cue up it feels brand new, so my suggestion is don't be scared of using raw linseed oil every week, just don't use too much and if you do and it gets sticky then rub it down with steel wool 0000 grade, antique dealers use this to bring out the colour in dull timber finishes and it works a treat on sticky or dirty cues.
Hope you find this info usefull.

[DeanH]

You will be surprised at how much chalk residue remains on the cue including the butt after a couple of hours of play, even after you have wiped it down with a dry cloth.
Using a damp cloth in my experience doesn't help much and I feel if anything it creates a micro paste that you end up rubbing into the shaft and eventually colouring it green.
My solution to this is to wipe my entire cue down with what would amount a teaspoon of raw linseed oil after every playing session and then buffing it off with a clean dry cotton cloth, the amount of chalk residue that comes off is substantial and every time I pick the cue up it feels brand new, so my suggestion is don't be scared of using raw linseed oil every week, just don't use too much and if you do and it gets sticky then rub it down with steel wool 0000 grade, antique dealers use this to bring out the colour in dull timber finishes and it works a treat on sticky or dirty cues.
Hope you find this info usefull.

that is a lot of oil!
Hold the cloth over the opening of the oil bottle, tip the bottle so you get a circle of oil on the cloth (or paper towel), that is enough to coat the whole cue.
I would not recommend oiling the cue after EVERY playing session or even every week, you will end up with a sticky cue which as you then mention will need to rub down with steelwool.
Using a very slightly moist cloth (i.e. very nearly dry) and then immediately buff with a dry cloth after every session will be enough to keep the cue clean and in good condition for a long time.

[bradwight]

I find the best way to clean a sticky shaft or remove oil, sweat, chalk staining and general dirt, rather than using an abrasive like steel wool, is with a Kiwi Express Shine shoe polish sponge. As far as I know it's a silicon grease and leaves a great finish on its own, although I then finish mine with Mike Wooldridge's potion. There's no colouring in it, just polish.

I first thought of this after seeing a giutarist using it on the strings to stop that squeeky noise you get when sliding up and down between chords. Works a trick.

[karlos fandango]

A handy little tip when cleaning your cue is to use baby wipes..squeeze them out so they are almost dry then once you have given the cue a good wipe down and got rid of all the chalk residue..buff it off with a dry cue towel and it will feel silky smooth...the baby wipes have lanolin in them and makes your cue feel like new

[vmax4steve]

I use a glove on my bridge hand so the shaft of my cue doesn't collect dirt and sweat from my hands, but once a year I will clean the cue with a damp flannel and a little soap, dry it off immediately with a towell and apply about a thumbnails amount of Kleeneze antique furniture polish to a paper towell and work it in all over the cue.
Leave for an hour and then rub off and buff with a dry cloth until shiny and new.
I have done this ever since I bought my cue over twenty seven years ago and the ash shaft is still dead straight and a lovely antique brown with natural dark grain unsullied by grain filler.

I bought the tub of polish when I bought my cue and haven't used half of it yet, a great product IMO.

[j6uk]

pjur woman, im sure there's loads of places in sydney

Hi Guys,please tell me more, what is this product made for and where do you buy it ?

[itsnoteasy]

Hi Guys,please tell me more, what is this product made for and where do you buy it ?

Sorry Sydney I was just mucking around, as far as I know it's a erm erm, shall we call it a marital aid lol, now you can re read my post and it might come across a bit differently lol.

[SouthPaw]

Keeps my shaft in tip top condition, although I'm not one for using it on my butt, some may like it but it's not for me.

That's probably the dirtiest statement I've read on here, was that intentional?

I've been toying with the idea of lacquering my cue butt only, to give me a bit of grip and keep the birds eye maple splices clean... anyone know what lacquer would be best?

[itsnoteasy]

That's probably the dirtiest statement I've read on here, was that intentional?

I've been toying with the idea of lacquering my cue butt only, to give me a bit of grip and keep the birds eye maple splices clean... anyone know what lacquer would be best?

I'm very sorry to say it was , I blame J6 for leading me astray lol.

[RogiBear]

I've been toying with the idea of lacquering my cue butt only, to give me a bit of grip and keep the birds eye maple splices clean... anyone know what lacquer would be best?

I'd be tempted with french polish rather than lacquer, easy to maintain if you knock it etc

[SouthPaw]

I've been toying with the idea of lacquering my cue butt only, to give me a bit of grip and keep the birds eye maple splices clean... anyone know what lacquer would be best?

I'd be tempted with french polish rather than lacquer, easy to maintain if you knock it etc

I'll look into that cheers Rogi... you're right lacquer would be a pain if it ever needed redone

[j6uk]

i'd go for a polyurethane lacquer. dilute it with some thinner and do three coats, you can sponge it on and wire wood it between coats.

... anyone know what lacquer would be best?

[SouthPaw]

i'd go for a polyurethane lacquer. dilute it with some thinner and do three coats, you can sponge it on and wire wood it between coats.

I've been doing a bit of researching and this seems the preferred choice for wood craft... but what's the best way to apply this just the sponge, will it still be as good a job as a spray gun..? (The spray gun gets mentioned a lot on the craft forums)

To be honest I'm torn between this and french polish, though the french polish would concern me if it leaves the butt too slippery...

[j6uk]

unless your really into it, i wouldn't do it myself, i'd find someone who does wood finishing and knows what you want, you know what i mean, get an old boy who'd be happy to do it for a score. otherwise your gonna be trailing round looking for some stuff that might not be right and do a bodge job, so..
if you do wanna have a go i know rustins do a wee pot for a fiva