It's a real shame nobody makes a radially spliced cue shaft for snooker a la the predator American pool shafts. I had a z2 shaft modified to 9.5mm and the lack of deflection on the snooker table was scary. We're it not for the 50/50 split of the cue which I hate I'd probably use it over any dedicated snooker cue now.
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Originally Posted by Gmd666 View PostIt's a real shame nobody makes a radially spliced cue shaft for snooker a la the predator American pool shafts. I had a z2 shaft modified to 9.5mm and the lack of deflection on the snooker table was scary. We're it not for the 50/50 split of the cue which I hate I'd probably use it over any dedicated snooker cue now.
Here is a vid that show the difference.
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Afaik nobody does a RADIALLY spliced cue shaft.
I don't think ash would be suitable but maple works fine for the predator shafts. I'm surprised that one if the Thai or Chinese makers hasn't explored this yet. From a build perspective splicing a shaft of such construction into a 1 piece cue shouldn't present too many problems. The major issue I see is the patents that Predator hold for any evolution of the original 314 concept.
Coupled with an ivorine/phenolic or similar ferrule of low mass if the build quality was there I'd certainly give one a try.
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Originally Posted by Gmd666 View PostAfaik nobody does a RADIALLY spliced cue shaft.
I don't think ash would be suitable but maple works fine for the predator shafts. I'm surprised that one if the Thai or Chinese makers hasn't explored this yet. From a build perspective splicing a shaft of such construction into a 1 piece cue shouldn't present too many problems. The major issue I see is the patents that Predator hold for any evolution of the original 314 concept.
Coupled with an ivorine/phenolic or similar ferrule of low mass if the build quality was there I'd certainly give one a try.
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Originally Posted by Gmd666 View PostAfaik nobody does a RADIALLY spliced cue shaft.
I don't think ash would be suitable but maple works fine for the predator shafts. I'm surprised that one if the Thai or Chinese makers hasn't explored this yet. From a build perspective splicing a shaft of such construction into a 1 piece cue shouldn't present too many problems. The major issue I see is the patents that Predator hold for any evolution of the original 314 concept.
Coupled with an ivorine/phenolic or similar ferrule of low mass if the build quality was there I'd certainly give one a try.
http://www.deroocues.com/mainframeset.htmUp the TSF! :snooker:
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Originally Posted by cyberheater View PostI wonder if anyone has glued a tip onto a solid metal bar and applied side on the white to see how far the white deflects and how different the deflection would be compared to a normal wooden cue.
Posers and snake oil salesman, every game is full of them.
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Originally Posted by cyberheater View Post
You cannot rely on a human duplicating the same shot exactly, especially if he's being paid to sell something.
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Totally agree with the last bit of that Vmax ,even if you do it in all honesty, I think you would err on the side of the result you want to see, it's just human nature as we all like to be proven right.This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8
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To reduce deflection you need to reduce the end mass, ie lighter ferrules or in predators case hollow for about 6 inches, lighter ferrule and a taper that allows the shaft to flex. The more end mass the more it will push the cue ball when using side.
Radial laminated does nothing for deflection they simply make the shaft flex more consistently all the way around unlike a cue with the grain all along the same plane and as pool cues have no flat on the butt you do not hold the cue in the same place all the time.
My own maple cue is radial laminated and has a light ferrule, it has very little deflection, it is an advantage you do not need to compensate anywhere near as much when using lots of side.
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Originally Posted by vmax4steve View PostYou can hear the difference of the two strokes he makes as on the second the tip bites into the cue ball and on the first not so much. It's either the tip or the second stroke he makes he plays with a sharper impact or strikes slightly lower to achieve more side spin.
You cannot rely on a human duplicating the same shot exactly, especially if he's being paid to sell something.
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I have been using an Acuerate pro for the last 7 months now. I would actually like to explain the difference I have picked up between the acuerate and my 2 previous cues.
I have been using a master cue exclusive and a john parris ultimate before the acuerate. with both these cues I have had no problem at all. I make consistent 80, 90 and 100. so I have a fairly good understanding of the game(my opinion lol).
I had no issues with the cues I have used in the past as I never battled with unintentional side or anything. it does happen from time to time, but not enough for me to buy a cue to eliminate it.
I bought an Acuerate cue because I was keen to try something different and just wanted to increase my hunger again for the sport.
when I used the acuerate I realised one main thing, when striking the cue ball I only see the difference after the cue ball has made contact with the object ball. it doesn't throw as wide as after making contact.
for example, lets say you the cue ball and black ball are in the same line across the table about 40cm apart(the shot you would normally play to screw/stun the white into the back of the pack to split it)
with the others cues I have owned on playing this shot the "C" created by the shot is more pronounced or wider. with the acuerate there is a more direct line barely a so called "C". the cue bsll doesn't first go forward then curl the white after it has gripped the cloth. it just comes back with less curl.
now before I used to accommodate for this, now I don't. but it isn't to my advantage or disadvantage. sometimes the swing would be favourable to avoid balls for better position etc. sometimes not.
for me personally I am just liking the fact that the spin is gripping the cloth slightly earlier than my previous cues. so I don't have to worry about the delayed swing.
understand that I am not saying all cues have this type of shaft where u have delayed swing, I am purely mentioning the cues I have experienced playing with. and my theory was not only based on the MC & JP, but others as well. my peers use TW, MW and DC and still the same thing.
I played a shot earlier which the acuerate was to my disadvantage, I was straight in line with the black to the corner pocket with the yellow right up on the baulk cushion. in order to get position I needed to play heavy check side with screw to spring the cue ball from the side cushion to as close as baulk as possible. now with my other cues. I could pot the straight black but just a bit closer towards the inside jaw of the pocket and when the white screws back it will swing wider meaning I will hit the side cushion higher up the table and using the side to get closer to baulk. with the acuerate it comes back almost in a straight line, hitting the side cushion much lower. so even with the side kicking in I wont get a close to baulk as expected.
to conclude, my experience with the cue has been more pronounced on after the white makes contact with the object ball instead of when you strike the white before hitting an object ball.
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Nice post Fakhrie , so do you think on long pots the kind of arc you get with side as the the white is pushed out then comes back online, is reduced or not.This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8
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Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View PostNice post Fakhrie , so do you think on long pots the kind of arc you get with side as the the white is pushed out then comes back online, is reduced or not.
I have tried this with 2 different acuerate cues and about 5 other cues.
like I said, it is not in any way better. it is just different from what we are used to. depending on the situation it can be to your disadv or adv.
I personally like the fact that the angle does tighten up a bit after contact with object ball. esp when playing lots of top spin or screw at an angle.
regarding the actual deflection when striking the white Before making object ball contact... I think this is very negligible.
the deflection is stil there perhaps 1-2 degress less than a normal cue but barely enough to notice.Last edited by fakhrie147; 3 March 2014, 07:19 AM.
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