Thai cues

[Master Blaster]

I've just played with my Phoenix for a few hours (after not using it for a long time) to test my own theories. When this was sent over from Thailand, I had high hopes and at first I thought I'd got a cracker. Then I began to play some power shots and.............clunk. Horrid. The shaft is tapered down to 9.3mm so you'd think the shaft would have some give. But it's really stiff and sounds like something is breaking on big shots. This sound is worse with a Kamui and a little less horrid on the ears with a Buffalo Diamond but it's always there. The feedback is like that from a lump hammer. 19oz might be an ounce too much but the cue shouldn't behave this way. My mates love that cue and call it dynamic, I don't know why. If I tap a ball with the side of the shaft, it sounds glassy.

Now here's my theory, no wind-up intended. The Thais are drying these things out with hot kilns and I think it makes the boards carbon like and glassy. And this ruins the hit of the shaft, they're just not woody at all, it feels like another material I can't describe.

I can't fault the splicing and finish on the cue, it's even better than JP, no mean feat. But there is no way this cue plays as well as a hundred quid Cuecraft or my Powerglide Purist (£35). So all in all, I don't find them good value at all. I've played with mate's Thai cues and it's a similar story. A slowly dried kiln board is always gonna be better than a hot board and air dried boards, where do I start...........................

[Byrom]

Well not hard to beat the splicing on a JP lets be fair

Not fair to generalise though - There are British guys over here using imported shafts from everywhere no doubt - and there are some good makers out there abroad now doing the same no doubt - so there are some possibly doing it different and getting the ash and materials and stuff from good sources elsewhere now too - the world moves on man so - I don't know where you start - but often wonder will this ever end.

Funny how no-one asks - where do you get the ash from and why do you use that? - before you buy a cue from a maker - it is the engine that drives the car after all - and most are bothered more that it has go faster stripes - chevrons - fancy splices - than they are about it having real horsepower - nice playable ash - which I think is your point. I mean might look badged up nice and fancy - but who knows what's inside right?

[Master Blaster]

I'm 100% with you on that, playable ash, J6's field, is what it's all about. Whether it be ordinary kiln wood or Holy Grail air-dried timber.

I got another theory about what you say and that may have to be another thread in general, on splicing and vaneers

[Neil Taperell]

Not all Thai cues are playing like that MB, there are enough cue makers using them !

And they seem to get very decent playing cues

[sanman]

My thoery is that your theory is based on the fact that anything that does not have a JP badge isnt worthy of being a cue. Neither is anyones opinion or experience worth spit if it doesnt align with what pros do or say according to your theories. Especially if its ROS opinion.

I've just played with my Phoenix for a few hours (after not using it for a long time) to test my own theories. When this was sent over from Thailand, I had high hopes and at first I thought I'd got a cracker. Then I began to play some power shots and.............clunk. Horrid. The shaft is tapered down to 9.3mm so you'd think the shaft would have some give. But it's really stiff and sounds like something is breaking on big shots. This sound is worse with a Kamui and a little less horrid on the ears with a Buffalo Diamond but it's always there. The feedback is like that from a lump hammer. 19oz might be an ounce too much but the cue shouldn't behave this way. My mates love that cue and call it dynamic, I don't know why. If I tap a ball with the side of the shaft, it sounds glassy.

Now here's my theory, no wind-up intended. The Thais are drying these things out with hot kilns and I think it makes the boards carbon like and glassy. And this ruins the hit of the shaft, they're just not woody at all, it feels like another material I can't describe.

I can't fault the splicing and finish on the cue, it's even better than JP, no mean feat. But there is no way this cue plays as well as a hundred quid Cuecraft or my Powerglide Purist (£35). So all in all, I don't find them good value at all. I've played with mate's Thai cues and it's a similar story. A slowly dried kiln board is always gonna be better than a hot board and air dried boards, where do I start...........................

[ADR147]

My thoery is that your theory is based on the fact that anything that does not have a JP badge isnt worthy of being a cue. Neither is anyones opinion or experience worth spit if it doesnt align with what pros do or say according to your theories. Especially if its ROS opinion.

lol my theory is your theory is about right!

[trevs1]

Post went a bit mental there, so re-posted it below.

[jrc750]

I want one of the Jupiter cues, bet it plays out of this World
(Yeah yeah, i'll get my coat)

[ADR147]

I want one of the Jupiter cues, bet it plays out of this World
(Yeah yeah, i'll get my coat)

pound in the bad joke box!

[trevs1]

I've just played with my Phoenix for a few hours (after not using it for a long time) to test my own theories. When this was sent over from Thailand, I had high hopes and at first I thought I'd got a cracker. Then I began to play some power shots and.............clunk. Horrid. The shaft is tapered down to 9.3mm so you'd think the shaft would have some give. But it's really stiff and sounds like something is breaking on big shots. This sound is worse with a Kamui and a little less horrid on the ears with a Buffalo Diamond but it's always there. The feedback is like that from a lump hammer. 19oz might be an ounce too much but the cue shouldn't behave this way. My mates love that cue and call it dynamic, I don't know why. If I tap a ball with the side of the shaft, it sounds glassy.

Now here's my theory, no wind-up intended. The Thais are drying these things out with hot kilns and I think it makes the boards carbon like and glassy. And this ruins the hit of the shaft, they're just not woody at all, it feels like another material I can't describe.

I can't fault the splicing and finish on the cue, it's even better than JP, no mean feat. But there is no way this cue plays as well as a hundred quid Cuecraft or my Powerglide Purist (£35). So all in all, I don't find them good value at all. I've played with mate's Thai cues and it's a similar story. A slowly dried kiln board is always gonna be better than a hot board and air dried boards, where do I start...........................

I have to admit, that I'm not writing this in defence of any maker, whether they be Thai, British or from Jupiter.

But, it appears you are basing your theory on one cue. I think I spot a flaw in your analysis.

[Master Blaster]

I have to admit, that I'm not writing this in defence of any maker, whether they be Thai, British or from Jupiter.

But, it appears you are basing your theory on one cue. I think I spot a flaw in your analysis.

No, if you read back you'd see I played with mates Thai cues as well. They're all clunk to me. But then again a lot of British cues feel the same as the Thai cues these days. Though your cues play quite sweet. As does a £160 Cue Craft Sherwood and lots of other Cue Craft Cues. It's strange...

[Master Blaster]

Not all Thai cues are playing like that MB, there are enough cue makers using them !

And they seem to get very decent playing cues

Yes, they get the best selected shafts Neil, the really good stuff. The rest is used in making actual Thai cues. There are some beautiful cues in the cue photo thread mate. I love that thread.

[ADR147]

right - just once. Every single cue is different. The idea that one type or maker of cue will play better than another is drivel.

[Ramon]

No, if you read back you'd see I played with mates Thai cues as well. They're all clunk to me. But then again a lot of British cues feel the same as the Thai cues these days. Though your cues play quite sweet. As does a £160 Cue Craft Sherwood and lots of other Cue Craft Cues. It's strange...

Master Blaster , Well, I know you love JP cues ( nothing wrong with that ) . But , if you do get the chance, try a few Praram cues (limited range) Or Niche Ultimate . They are Great players !! many players do believe that Thai cues are cheap !! they are not !!! You pay for a praram Limited sum between 550 / 750 gbp ( incl VAT and ..... ) , that is more then what u pay for sum cues made by Sum UK cue makers !! So , the idea << Thai cues are crap and cheap >> is Not True !!! Of crs, Not all of them re great players But that goes also for UK cues !! Is hard to say , lol . DPS on the wood and whether the cue suits ur game Or not !!

[strobbekoen]

I have a Phoenix Unity which plays very well and has a great feel.
As a reference, I can compare it to JP ultimate, professional, superior, a old MW, a old B&W, a old Hunt & O'byrne, Master cues, Craftsman cues, Andy Gibbs cue, Coutts cue, GBL cue.
Seen good playing cues and less good playing cues from anywhere, but I am stating the obvious replying to a ever-returning topic lol. Last time.