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  • cue wax

    is using wax on your cue a good idea and if not, what's the best way to get your cue really smooth and glide nice?

  • #2
    wax oil etc it does not really matter, what makes a cue super smooth is lots of work so think layers.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

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    • #3
      Is your cue hand made ? If yes give it a wipe down with damp cloth then give it a dry eith kitchen towel then a use sum danish oil works a treet

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      • #4
        Originally Posted by ADR147 View Post
        wax oil etc it does not really matter, what makes a cue super smooth is lots of work so think layers.
        So would an onion work then ?

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        • #5
          Originally Posted by ADR147 View Post
          wax oil etc it does not really matter, what makes a cue super smooth is lots of work so think layers.
          what do you use to rub the cue down between layers? Is there a particular kind of oil/wax you would recommend?

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          • #6
            Originally Posted by Removal man stevie View Post
            Is your cue hand made ? If yes give it a wipe down with damp cloth then give it a dry eith kitchen towel then a use sum danish oil works a treet
            yes it's a one piece maple hand spliced cue I picked up at a car boot for 30 quid. Hasn't got a bagde on it but nice cue all the same.

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            • #7
              Originally Posted by billabong View Post
              So would an onion work then ?
              No need for onions here mate, my game brings plenty of tears to my eyes as it is

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              • #8
                Personally don't use wax on cue shafts as it can become sticky especially when its warm. You could use danish oil which I sometimes do, but I usually use a blend of linseed and tung oil, despite what many will say its fine to use boiled linseed. As Adr says its all about the prep in getting the cue as smooth as possible before oiling/waxing, between coats lightly rub with 0000 wire wool or 1200 or higher wet & dry and then polish/buff with a lint free cloth before applying the next coat, also remove all excess oil after 10-20 mins then leave for 24-48hrs before adding more coats and build the finish, never cover your cue in oil and then leave to dry overnight or you'll end up with a sticky mess
                Last edited by Dave Walton; 6 April 2014, 03:56 AM.

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                • #9
                  Best thing to do would be to get it re-finished by someone who knows what they're doing or the cheats way would be buy some cue slide from craftsman cues

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                  • #10
                    Originally Posted by Dave Walton View Post
                    Best thing to do would be to get it re-finished by someone who knows what they're doing
                    yes i think this is really the only way to go, unless the postage is worth more than the cue
                    Last edited by j6uk; 6 April 2014, 06:06 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Originally Posted by j6uk View Post
                      yes i think this is really the only way to go, unless the postage is worth more than the cue
                      If it was ash I'd agree, but with maple you don't have the same issues with the grain, for the same price of posting it shell out on some proper cue oil and 0000 wire wool and have a go! It's a skill worth having.
                      No one is listening until you make a mistake!

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                      • #12
                        Originally Posted by culraven View Post
                        If it was ash I'd agree, but with maple you don't have the same issues with the grain, for the same price of posting it shell out on some proper cue oil and 0000 wire wool and have a go! It's a skill worth having.
                        oh, so if its fine-maple then don't mess about!! there is a massive differance in the finish of a maple cue, ask any pool player. a maple wax or oil finish is something else. only you know what you like and, you gotta work it out m8

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                        • #13
                          Originally Posted by culraven View Post
                          If it was ash I'd agree, but with maple you don't have the same issues with the grain, for the same price of posting it shell out on some proper cue oil and 0000 wire wool and have a go! It's a skill worth having.
                          Will do that. Got an old unspliced Peradon to practice on and some Danish oil for my kitchen tops in the shed. Thanks everyone

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                          • #14
                            Couldn't agree more J6UK, maple is a totally different kettle of fish and there's quite a lot of ready made products freely available from the states that give an amazing slick finish on maple. I experimented for years on ash before settling on a homemade beeswax and linseed concoction.

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                            • #15
                              If you want a high gloss finish you need the surface ultra smooth, I can't remember who it was, but someone recommend micromesh instead so I bought this:

                              http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1412265805...84.m1439.l2649

                              Combine with some wooldrige cue oil, and my trevor white is now glowing! Wish I had before and after pictures..
                              ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                              Old cue collector --
                              Cue Sales: http://oldcues.co.uk/index.php?id=for_sale_specials
                              (yes I know they're not cheap, I didn't intend them to be!..)
                              ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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