slight blue/green shine on top part of my cue

[Kristof135]

Hi all

Recently I noticed that the top 20cm of my (ash) cue looks a tiny bit green. I've always taken care of my cue, I clean it regularly with a damped cloth. Therefore my question to you guys: how do I get rid of that slight green look? When I clean my cue it (the chalk perhaps) comes off a little bit, but you can still notice a difference of colour comparing to the rest of my cue. I read some things about using white spirit, cue oils... I'm not planning to refinish my cue, I just want to 'clean' it. Would linseed oil do the trick?

Regards
Kristof

[DeanH]

It has been mentioned before that the stubborn green/blue stain just under the ferrule which comes from the chalk (maybe you chalk to often and too hard?) can be cleaned off with white-spirit/meths, and then dry and oil.
All linseed oil (or any oil) will do is coat over the chalk and keep it there.

[Kristof135]

I think the problem is that I have a pretty large backswing which leads to a green stripe on my index finger of my bridgehand.
Anyway, thanks for your advice! One more question regarding the use of white spirit. Doesn't it take the finish/protecting layer of my cue? And what about the colour, will it turn back into the same neat colour or will it be lighter? I'm just scared that using white-spirit would make the colour difference even worse...

[DeanH]

Well to get rid of the dirt/chalk there will be a colour change, this may take some time if you have oiled over it in the past.
I believe it is quiet usual to have a slightly different colour at the ferrule end, usually because there tends to be less graining (ash) and also any oil there is affected by the chalk more than any other area.
The cleaning can be localised if you wish or you can do the whole cue, the knack is to little but often so you can control the affect.
If you are getting a green stripe on you bridge hand (and you are not chalking your bridge hand directly as I have seen others do in the past ) then I would say that you must be chalking too often and too heavy-handedly and with a chalk that is to dusty. And this chalk is on your cue from your chalking that is then being transferred to the hand.
I would consider chalking less often, less heavy-handedly, and with a less-dusty chalk
Also, wipe your cue down more often between frames, also clean and dry your hands, the sweat/skin-oil/dirt will combine with the chalk very quickly and if you leave on the shaft will eventually rot the wood.
100% what you do not do is attack the area with sandpaper/wirewool/scouring-pads/scotchcloths as you will end up with an hour-glass shape under the ferrule - this is just waiting to snap
I often see the difference in the colour just under the ferrule when compared to the rest of the shaft, to me it looks like it has gone dry and needs oiling. And when I do reoil my cue I do try to "add" extra to that area

[bradwight]

I've always been of the belief that if your cue is working for you and you can put up with the staining, don't bother fixing it. Its purely cosmetic and wont help you play any better. That said, if it does bother you white spirits does work but its a fairly time consuming process followed by re-finishing. If you want the colour to be even all down the shaft, clean and refinish the entire cue not just the stained area.

[DeanH]

I've always been of the belief that if your cue is working for you and you can put up with the staining, don't bother fixing it. Its purely cosmetic and wont help you play any better. That said, if it does bother you white spirits does work but its a fairly time consuming process followed by re-finishing. If you want the colour to be even all down the shaft, clean and refinish the entire cue not just the stained area.

I agree it wont make you a better player
but I wont agree with that the blue stain is "purely cosmetic" as the chalk and dirt can attract moisture and can in time start to rot the wood if left.

[danam1]

I've found that wiping the stain with white spirit doesn't get rid of it as it has probably gone into the grain.
Contrary to what Dean has said you can sand it and it will get rid of the chalk.
You need to wipe the area with white spirit then start sanding with 240 grit paper then 320, 400 and finish with 600. Always go "with" the grain and don't press too hard. You will then need to refinish the area with your relevant finish. Obviously this won't work on a varnished cue but if it is varnished the chances are that it won't take on the green tinge in the first place!

http://www.handmadecues.com/4-Info/32-refinish.htm

[DeanH]

what I meant was do not go hacking at the wood with whatever you have to hand, of course if you are careful you can get rid of the chalk with sanding
White spirit can get rid of some of the stain, but of course if it is engrained it could be a case for sanding, as you describe.
The thing is I have seen people's attempts and the hourglass under the ferrule is not what you want
MY advice - if in doubt - dont and send to a cue maker/doctor

[RogiBear]

completely concur with everything Dean has said, although another option you could try to get rid of the stain is a magic eraser, but not too wet!!

[danam1]

what I meant was do not go hacking at the wood with whatever you have to hand, of course if you are careful you can get rid of the chalk with sanding
White spirit can get rid of some of the stain, but of course if it is engrained it could be a case for sanding, as you describe.
The thing is I have seen people's attempts and the hourglass under the ferrule is not what you want
MY advice - if in doubt - dont and send to a cue maker/doctor

Couldn't agree more, I'm fairly experienced in working with wood but it is still quite daunting!

[Mellow Yellow]

I have refurbed some pretty "green" cues in the past and it is really not that bigger job to remove.

mix up a bowl of warm water with a drop of soap.
ball up some kitchen roll and dampen it in the water, wring it out completely and give the cue a wipe down on the green area, dry the cue completely with some dry kitchen paper. and repeat a couple of times, you will see how dirty the paper gets. !!!! be careful not to get the cue too wet !!!
this should remove the majority of the stain.
if not you may have to give it a light refurb.
Contrary to the advice above I would start with the finest grade of paper first, work with the grain in long strokes applying light pressure and take your time.
I would rub the area down first with 0000 grade wire wool, if this does not remove the colour move on to 2000, 1500, 1000 grit wet dry, etc etc. until the colour has gone.
then work you way back up the grades of paper and finally finish with some linseed oil.

I don't own or use any paper more course than 600 grit for refinishing cues.