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Although the urge to just say fit a soft tip is overwelming i will play nice! If you use too much or the wrong type of glue it can absorb into the tip. Use gel not liquid and just a drop.
Knowing what type of tip you have used would help, but as Culraven says above, a softer tip is the answer.
There is much said about glues being absorbed into tips, but I'm not much for believing that, unless of course you are soaking your tip in it before fitting it to the cue.
Can you let us know what tip you have used so far.?
The problem is with elks and the like is hit and miss, pay a bit/lot more and you get a choice of firmness and a greater deal of consistency. Sorry to keep blowing his trumpet, but ADR's new tips come in soft medium and hard, and you'd be hard pressed to find a better laminated tip (did you like what i did there?)
As for glue, you've got the right stuff. Just make sure it doesn't get on the sides or business end and you should be fine.
Last edited by culraven; 24 September 2014, 10:38 PM.
Personally, I don't feel there is any need to spend more than what a good elkmaster costs. They are as good as anything if chosen well, last long enough and are so cheap, that even if the box is inconsistent, you can afford to throw away half of them and they're still cheaper than most / all the others.
Blue diamonds and elkmaster tips are not so different in that they will vary from firm to soft. As you say, the thicker the tip, generally the more cushioning effect it will provide and therefore the softer it is likely to feel. However, the initial hardness of any particular tip is essentially going to determine how firm it's likely to feel when first fitted, and even more so as it settles in and suffers from some wear.
Each cue will have its own natural contact sound, and so, a cue which has a hard sounding contact will sound and feel even harder if a hard tip is fitted to it, such as a Talisman (soft medium or hard, they're all hard). The secret to success in using Elkmasters tips etc, is to learn how firm they're likely to be from feeling them before you fit them, but I understand this is not easy for everyone. If you hold one between your forefingers and attempt to pull the tip apart with your thumbnails, you will notice either a lot of movement in the fibres, some movement or no movement whatsoever. This gives you an indication of how firm that tip is. I tend to prefer those which allow a fraction of movement, as these feel firm enough when fitted and shaped (and perhaps compressed during shaping if need be) but yet still retain some give on the contact and ensure that when you strike the ball your cue does not feel like there's a stone fitted to the end of it.
It's an experience thing really, but it's not too tricky at all to get right, time after time. If you find what you tried last time was a little soft, then pick a tip with a little less movement in the fibres, or once you have intially shaped it, compress it down by knocking it with a wooden block and then reshape it to your final shape again after. That will take much of any bedding in time away instantly and the tip should feel like it's been on the cue for weeks, but without feeling rock hard.
As I said, it's only though experience you will get it right, but it's very easy to do.
Last edited by trevs1; 25 September 2014, 07:40 AM.
Thanks Trevor and culraven put a new tip on but yet to try but I've left the tip a little thicker than I normally would have it. Thanks for the advice given.
I have to say that I've had a elkmaster tip on mine for a while and it's the best tip I've ever played with. Quite hard. Holds the chalk. A nice percussive hit. Doesn't seem to wear down. Just fab.
Personally, I don't feel there is any need to spend more than what a good elkmaster costs. They are as good as anything if chosen well, last long enough and are so cheap, that even if the box is inconsistent, you can afford to throw away half of them and they're still cheaper than most / all the others.
Like Trev said, 'good' elks take some beating. If you can afford to invest in a tip press ( not the cheap ones from China, but the models that retail for @ £33, do a search for a long thread on here a while back ), they WILL pretty much ensure EVERY elk is a good one. I'm speaking from recent experience here, a decent tip press REALLY DOES make a difference!
Like Trev said, 'good' elks take some beating. If you can afford to invest in a tip press ( not the cheap ones from China, but the models that retail for @ £33, do a search for a long thread on here a while back ), they WILL pretty much ensure EVERY elk is a good one. I'm speaking from recent experience here, a decent tip press REALLY DOES make a difference!
In what way? I have a cheapy press from china and it does the same as a mates who has the expensive one.
Like most others say you cant beat the tried and tested elks or blue diamond tips that have been around for years. Sorry to say it but i think all these other tip that are being forced down our throats are nothing more than people just trying to make a quick buck. Elks and blue diamonds have been around for years ! how many of these so called super tips do you think will be around for years ? none i would say...
Not played for 3 years and itching for a game....11-3-2017.
In what way? I have a cheapy press from china and it does the same as a mates who has the expensive one.
Of the 2 I've seen, the tip press does not sit flush ( and close seamlessly when tightened ), the same tight fit does not happen ( as you get with the more expensive models ), and the tip is not pressed firmly/evenly. If your press works sweet, then power to you.. I guess the I was just unlucky with the 2 I tried. I think ADR also has some experience with these tip presses?
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