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  • technique.. although from here you can pretty much play with anything...

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    • Originally Posted by jono* View Post
      technique.. although from here you can pretty much play with anything...
      thats because iv been tinkering around with cues for so long now that i feel i know what wont play well..
      as far as the physical feeling of playing with a slightly thinner butted cue say between 27-28.5mm, i find being able to wrap the hand comfortably around the cue while still keeping a loose consistent so called grip works. and i think thats why a lot of tour players go under 29mm

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      • just put a few hrs in to cut these shafts down to well over sized and roundish while caseing the chevies to keep them in line. theyve been in the cold for a good few months so now i'll let then sit in the haouse for a few weeks till i take them to there final over size cut







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        • If it's not a trade secret , how do you go about keeping the arrows going straight up the shaft, if they naturally want to twist?
          This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
          https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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          • They do look like the Parris ones. You sure they ain't come on a slow boat from the far east? LOL Luckily J will get the joke.
            Last edited by focus; 3 March 2016, 07:11 PM.

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            • Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View Post
              If it's not a trade secret , how do you go about keeping the arrows going straight up the shaft, if they naturally want to twist?
              ,
              im still learning but as far im finding im able to cut them twists out providing the shaft is over enough. but every piece of wood feels different so

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              • Do you have to plane more on one side of the shaft to kind of bring them back round into line ?
                This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
                https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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                • Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View Post
                  Do you have to plane more on one side of the shaft to kind of bring them back round into line ?
                  Yeah, they do. And that's because these boards are full of internal stress because the boards are case hardened in kilns. As soon as you cut one, the internal stresses release and the blank warps. If you don't let wood do what it wants to do when it is cut down as timber, it will do what it wants to do later. Wood is very stubborn; its ingrained.

                  Doesn't happen to boards air-dried in stacks over twelve years, no internal stresses see. Go natural. :biggrin-new:

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                  • yeah something like that, planing bits here and there. if you can get them aligned when cutting down from the square then your moving in the right direction

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                    • Originally Posted by j6uk View Post
                      yeah something like that, planing bits here and there. if you can get them aligned when cutting down from the square then your moving in the right direction
                      Easier to import them from Kong Cues though innit bud, like all the famous names?

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                      • i dont know too much about what others are doing focus. i know if you do that as a player you start missing and taking too long over your shots so, its head down and graft my end

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                        • Originally Posted by j6uk View Post
                          ,
                          im still learning but as far im finding im able to cut them twists out providing the shaft is over enough. but every piece of wood feels different so
                          I've been told from 2 sources now that if you buy quarter sawn kiln dried planks that the wood won't move when cut to blanks. I find it difficult to believe as would have thought that all wood would want to move when the stress is relieved when cutting.

                          I was told that was the one reason why carpenters etc buy quarter sawn was that it doesn't move after kiln drying planks. Whether it does or not I'll let you decide!
                          Snooker Crazy - Cues and Equipment Sales Website
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                          • Originally Posted by Shockerz View Post
                            I've been told from 2 sources now that if you buy quarter sawn kiln dried planks that the wood won't move when cut to blanks. I find it difficult to believe as would have thought that all wood would want to move when the stress is relieved when cutting.

                            I was told that was the one reason why carpenters etc buy quarter sawn was that it doesn't move after kiln drying planks. Whether it does or not I'll let you decide!
                            It won't move a mm if it's aged air dried. Stuff the kiln, it ain't bread, so don't bake it.

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                            • Originally Posted by focus View Post
                              It won't move a mm if it's aged air dried. Stuff the kiln, it ain't bread, so don't bake it.

                              I see she's out!

                              Shafts look great. Apart from that one on the far right. I don't fancy that one.

                              Keep up this quality and I'm going to break and ask to buy one of yours soon J6. I persuaded myself I was buying to a plan, and specific specs, and only one pieces....but the the 3/4 Travis I bought this evening would seem to suggest that I just like owning nice cues!

                              Are you going to be selling, and what have you got?

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                              • Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View Post
                                If it's not a trade secret , how do you go about keeping the arrows going straight up the shaft, if they naturally want to twist?
                                They don't twist itsnoteasy, they are central because they are cut in the direction of the grain from boards that have been cut straight down the middle of the original log.
                                You make a straight shaft and the arrows stay central because that's where they are, in the middle of the timber.

                                The side grain can have twists and turns in it that brings pretty arrows to the front face of the shaft but the only time arrows twist is when the finished shaft itself bends, and that's due to stress within the timber being released.

                                You could of course attempt to make a cue from a board that's been cut across the grain, but that's what karate experts use when breaking boards with their bare hands, it wouldn't last long
                                Last edited by vmax4steve; 4 March 2016, 11:55 AM.

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