technique.. although from here you can pretty much play with anything...
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Originally Posted by jono* View Posttechnique.. although from here you can pretty much play with anything...
as far as the physical feeling of playing with a slightly thinner butted cue say between 27-28.5mm, i find being able to wrap the hand comfortably around the cue while still keeping a loose consistent so called grip works. and i think thats why a lot of tour players go under 29mm
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If it's not a trade secret , how do you go about keeping the arrows going straight up the shaft, if they naturally want to twist?This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8
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Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View PostIf it's not a trade secret , how do you go about keeping the arrows going straight up the shaft, if they naturally want to twist?
im still learning but as far im finding im able to cut them twists out providing the shaft is over enough. but every piece of wood feels different so
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Do you have to plane more on one side of the shaft to kind of bring them back round into line ?This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8
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Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View PostDo you have to plane more on one side of the shaft to kind of bring them back round into line ?
Doesn't happen to boards air-dried in stacks over twelve years, no internal stresses see. Go natural. :biggrin-new:
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Originally Posted by j6uk View Post,
im still learning but as far im finding im able to cut them twists out providing the shaft is over enough. but every piece of wood feels different so
I was told that was the one reason why carpenters etc buy quarter sawn was that it doesn't move after kiln drying planks. Whether it does or not I'll let you decide!
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Originally Posted by Shockerz View PostI've been told from 2 sources now that if you buy quarter sawn kiln dried planks that the wood won't move when cut to blanks. I find it difficult to believe as would have thought that all wood would want to move when the stress is relieved when cutting.
I was told that was the one reason why carpenters etc buy quarter sawn was that it doesn't move after kiln drying planks. Whether it does or not I'll let you decide!
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Originally Posted by focus View PostIt won't move a mm if it's aged air dried. Stuff the kiln, it ain't bread, so don't bake it.
I see she's out!
Shafts look great. Apart from that one on the far right. I don't fancy that one.
Keep up this quality and I'm going to break and ask to buy one of yours soon J6. I persuaded myself I was buying to a plan, and specific specs, and only one pieces....but the the 3/4 Travis I bought this evening would seem to suggest that I just like owning nice cues!
Are you going to be selling, and what have you got?
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Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View PostIf it's not a trade secret , how do you go about keeping the arrows going straight up the shaft, if they naturally want to twist?
You make a straight shaft and the arrows stay central because that's where they are, in the middle of the timber.
The side grain can have twists and turns in it that brings pretty arrows to the front face of the shaft but the only time arrows twist is when the finished shaft itself bends, and that's due to stress within the timber being released.
You could of course attempt to make a cue from a board that's been cut across the grain, but that's what karate experts use when breaking boards with their bare hands, it wouldn't last longLast edited by vmax4steve; 4 March 2016, 11:55 AM.
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