Turning a brass joint (slightly)

[fredkite]

I've acquired a 3/4 cue but the chevrons don't line up with the badge, I've read on here that others have heated the joint and turned it until it lines up. Is it really that simple?

[louise sheldon]

If I was you I would leave it as it is , joints are the weakest link in a cue so if is ok now and there is no noise coming from joint when playing then as the saying goes if it is not broken don't fix it , all cues with joints eventually have the flat move round and for most people it's only cosmetic

[golferson123]

the only way is to remove some from the face, if it's gone past put some paper between the joint

[gazza147]

I have seen many people put white thread tape on threads of the Joint which then helps it make the chevrons perfect again.


Gaz.

[golferson123]

it's the two faces that determine alignment not the threads

[Terry Davidson]

What Dave Coutts has said above is the way to go unless not having the chevrons lined up effects your game somehow. If that's the case grip the cue so that the chevrons are on top.

By the way, Judd Trump holds his cue so the chevrons are sideways. I don't think the alignment of the shaft makes any difference at all to how the cue plays, maybe just the tip if it has a flat spot.

[andy carson]

give it to me if you dont like it!

[old school]

It can be that simple yes . The trick is to only use enough heat to soften the glue enough to turn the joint , without scorching the wood . Too much heat is a bad thing as what you are trying to do is heat the joint , assemble the cue , try to turn the joint fully assembled . If it wont turn try again , there is a fine line between too much heat and too soft glue and just right and it takes practice. I have done it with centre joint and 3/4 cues , heating either the male pin or female socket , but I have also had to remove the joint and reglue it because I used too much heat and the glue became too soft. Dave is right , in that joints can move and generally it is just a cosmetic issue . If you are not confident then dont do it OR send it to someone like Andy Travis or Tony Glover for realignment.

[gazza147]

Yes Dave your Correct but if it goes past as you know then to pull it back you need something between and this tape fixes this and if you have a Clunk with Joint this white thread tape very good.

Terry your also correct it doesnt make the cue play any different, but like myself and many other people i deal with do like the arrows inline with badge or otherway around especially if they know anything about cues and have got used to playing with arrows inline with the badge or otherway around like i have. I couldnt play with the shaft a few mm either way puts me right off and never happy to its sorted....lol

You can send away to any good cue maker Andy Travis, Tony Glover, Trevor White, Dave at Craftmans Cues, Dave Coutts etc and its not a big job for them and isnt expensive to do unless they have to remove it the joint which a few of mine had to which then did cost alittle more but not mega money.


Gaz.

[strobbekoen]

I dont see how tape would do any good, the thread is the thread and when the faces of the joint meet, same problem no ?
If it really bothers the original poster, just bring it to a cue maker.

[andy carson]

I dont see how tape would do any good, the thread is the thread and when the faces of the joint meet, same problem no ?
If it really bothers the original poster, just bring it to a cue maker.

no, the thread gradually wears away or if it gets over tightened it will twist the joint off straight, adding the tape thickens the screw onto the joint which will make it back to tight or stop it going overtight as easy and going off straight on the splices or grain depending on where the joint is. much more common on two peice (centre joint) cues than on 3/4 cues though

[strobbekoen]

ah ok, i think i see your point now..

[mchpddl1]

Old School, please can you share, how to heat up the joint if at home? Thanks

[old school]

Gas cooker , joint face or pin right at the point of the flame or a gas soldering pen , the narrower the flame the better . Heat the male pin first as it usually has less glue and is narrower in area, stop if it smokes or changes colour , or you notice splits on the splice line( too hot ). Put the joint together and try to overtighten it, if the glue is soft enough the joint will move inside the socket in the shaft , or butt , depends which way the cue is made. If it doesnt move heat again , we are talking about 20 seconds at a time and do NOT scorch the wood or allow the joint to expand too much under the heat. Too much heat can separate the splices in a converted one piece where the shaft runs right through the butt , if the joint expands too much. With a cue where the butt is solid i.e. a turned 3/4 butt , then there should be no problem. I have used this method to realign grains on centre joint cues where the joint moved and 3/4 cues to realign the chamfer with the chevrons.IF YOU ARE AT ALL UNSURE SEND IT TO A CUE MAKER TO GET IT DONE . I have been " tinkering " with cues for years and I know how to remove and reglue a joint , if I get it wrong , which is why I dont mind trying heat first and cue maker second.

[mchpddl1]

Thank you....it really is a task that needs some experience.