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Either that or you are lacking any ability to feel what a cue does. I think the splicing is mainly for balance. But the ferrule is located at the most concentrated point of the cue, where all of the energy is transferred and if you think there's no difference in feel and throw between a metal and synthetic ferrule then you probably need a walking stick, not a cue.
this is probably an off the topic question. but considering your post , I'm gonna ask it anyway ,, do'nt you think the main reason of throw is the poor technique of the player and not the quality of ferrule ??
( is just a question btw ,,, ).
i have a machine spliced club cue with fine resonance that shudders all the way through to the butt end, and iv felt many more with the same. good resonance has little to do with splicing or adding weight ime, more about construction, the taper and yes, its all about the wood
99.99% of players could not tell the difference in feel or throw, regardless of what it is made of but like people who have 'seen ghosts' will tell you that they can - paint a brass ferrule to look like a fibre one and give it to someone who thinks fibre throws different and he will show you how different it is until you scrape the paint off and laugh at him, paint two maple and two ash cues over and see who could tell which is hand spliced or what wood - it's all in your mind which you are wasting worrying about something which even if it existed would be microscopic and therefore of no consequence to your game, unlike practice which is what will make you play better
but on the plus side you wouldn't have the choice to choose from if there weren't enough gullible people out there who thought such things really can change their game or are nice to own, if it makes you feel better missing with an expensive different thing you are no worse than the man smashing his golf balls into the trees with the latest titanium tiger woods bat which hits further and truer than what that muppet jack Nicklaus used
it doesn't throw less or more than you can ever really notice, it doesn't 'feel' different and you will still keep missing and losing, the only thing that will help that is more practice but when you reach your limit, that's it, all you can do is change things for fun
but I also accept that there will be more and more people wanting to try these things so I will shortly be getting on the bandwagon and making some money out of you too, my ads will tell you that you will do better with less throw and laminated tips and specially hand finished cues and you will see this, believe it and spend, good luck and thanks for the money
Spot on. They'd be fine with a broom handle, it's just a bit of wood with bits glued on afterall. Stick an elk on a broomstick with no ferrule and I guarantee it will play exactly the same as JP Ultimate with a titanium ferrule and Kamui. Honest. LOL!
this is probably an off the topic question. but considering your post , I'm gonna ask it anyway ,, do'nt you think the main reason of throw is the poor technique of the player and not the quality of ferrule ??
( is just a question btw ,,, ).
It's true that a player can adjust to throw, but a cue that throws less lets you cue straighter through the white ball and that is a big benefit. Trevor made a similar point last year. The fact is that some cues require a bigger adjustment than others and that's not the fault of the player.
It's true that a player can adjust to throw, but a cue that throws less lets you cue straighter through the white ball and that is a big benefit. Trevor made a similar point last year. The fact is that some cues require a bigger adjustment than others and that's not the fault of the player.
I can see the zombie snooker players from Michael Jackson's Thriller video in my head now, carrying their broom sticks with a blue diamond on it from the 80s, lol.
Outstanding post from V-Max, explaining things really well, logically, eruditely. J6 makes good points as a cue maker who should know these things, but hey, I'm sure he's just saying it to make and sell more cues because snooker is all about greed, selling crap and conning people or am I being illogically cynical?
Ramon: I know that different tips throw the cue ball differently because I saw it with my own eyes yesterday. My coach had a go with my cue and it still threw more than his so it wasn't down to the player because my coach has a very fine cue action. So, for both players, my cue threw the ball 3/4 of a ball more from the baulk line to the pack. My ash shaft is medium stiff so that's not the reason and it's old, naturally dried wood so it doesn't have a clunky hit, it has lovely feel. If anything, the Glover is stiffer being made of maple. As we know, a stiff shaft throws a ball more than a whippy one. The ferrules aren't that different which just leaves the tip.
An elk doesn't behave like a Kamui M. I believe that laminates throw the ball more than single layer pressed tips. My coach said the Talisman he fitted to his Glover was the same as my Kamui so he took it off. I remember trying an Aurora that was quite hard and you couldn't play with side, the throw was awful. Horrid tips.
My prognosis is to now find a way of making consistently hard Elks for my cue that don't need too much maintenance over their life, thus having the advantage of laminates but not the disadvantage of throw. All suggestions welcome.
I can see the zombie snooker players from Michael Jackson's Thriller video in my head now, carrying their broom sticks with a blue diamond on it from the 80s, lol.
Outstanding post from V-Max, explaining things really well, logically, eruditely. J6 makes good points as a cue maker who should know these things, but hey, I'm sure he's just saying it to make and sell more cues because snooker is all about greed, selling crap and conning people or am I being illogically cynical?
Ramon: I know that different tips throw the cue ball differently because I saw it with my own eyes yesterday. My coach had a go with my cue and it still threw more than his so it wasn't down to the player because my coach has a very fine cue action. So, for both players, my cue threw the ball 3/4 of a ball more from the baulk line to the pack. My ash shaft is medium stiff so that's not the reason and it's old, naturally dried wood so it doesn't have a clunky hit, it has lovely feel. If anything, the Glover is stiffer being made of maple. As we know, a stiff shaft throws a ball more than a whippy one. The ferrules aren't that different which just leaves the tip.
An elk doesn't behave like a Kamui M. I believe that laminates throw the ball more than single layer pressed tips. My coach said the Talisman he fitted to his Glover was the same as my Kamui so he took it off. I remember trying an Aurora that was quite hard and you couldn't play with side, the throw was awful. Horrid tips.
My prognosis is to now find a way of making consistently hard Elks for my cue that don't need too much maintenance over their life, thus having the advantage of laminates but not the disadvantage of throw. All suggestions welcome.
your talking tom tit for the sake of it.
whos conning people and selling crap?
this is how greedy i am:
I can see the zombie snooker players from Michael Jackson's Thriller video in my head now, carrying their broom sticks with a blue diamond on it from the 80s, lol.
Outstanding post from V-Max, explaining things really well, logically, eruditely. J6 makes good points as a cue maker who should know these things, but hey, I'm sure he's just saying it to make and sell more cues because snooker is all about greed, selling crap and conning people or am I being illogically cynical?
Ramon: I know that different tips throw the cue ball differently because I saw it with my own eyes yesterday. My coach had a go with my cue and it still threw more than his so it wasn't down to the player because my coach has a very fine cue action. So, for both players, my cue threw the ball 3/4 of a ball more from the baulk line to the pack. My ash shaft is medium stiff so that's not the reason and it's old, naturally dried wood so it doesn't have a clunky hit, it has lovely feel. If anything, the Glover is stiffer being made of maple. As we know, a stiff shaft throws a ball more than a whippy one. The ferrules aren't that different which just leaves the tip.
An elk doesn't behave like a Kamui M. I believe that laminates throw the ball more than single layer pressed tips. My coach said the Talisman he fitted to his Glover was the same as my Kamui so he took it off. I remember trying an Aurora that was quite hard and you couldn't play with side, the throw was awful. Horrid tips.
My prognosis is to now find a way of making consistently hard Elks for my cue that don't need too much maintenance over their life, thus having the advantage of laminates but not the disadvantage of throw. All suggestions welcome.
My suggestion is Just play the game for Christ sake and stop worrying about all this throw and ferrule sh*te
your talking tom tit for the sake of it.
whos conning people and selling crap?
this is how greedy i am:
btw what good points have i made?
I was being ironic because sberry said that the only people who would recommend certain cues have something to gain. Here you are, recommending hand spliced for all the reasons I agree with and you're a cue expert and aren't in it to gain anything. Understand? Irony. Yes, I thought what you said were good points bud!
Ok, so if Ronnie played with a £15 Riley mid-jointed 2 piece 'Classic' with its lovely painted butt (and they've got whopping ferrules and sound like a cracking brick when you hit the ball!), it wouldn't affect his game one jot, not a bit right? Because cues are irrelevant, it's all the player. PMSL!!!
Ronnie, sell that Parris for 20K bruv, cash in now and hold the 'Classic' for this years Worlds. Don't worry about the 5p industrial tip they put on it because that doesn't make any difference either. LOL
Ok, so if Ronnie played with a £15 Riley mid-jointed 2 piece 'Classic' with its lovely painted butt (and they've got whopping ferrules and sound like a cracking brick when you hit the ball!), it wouldn't affect his game one jot, not a bit right? Because cues are irrelevant, it's all the player. PMSL!!!
Ronnie, sell that Parris for 20K bruv, cash in now and hold the 'Classic' for this years Worlds. Don't worry about the 5p industrial tip they put on it because that doesn't make any difference either. LOL
Think your argument don't quite live up to the original debate to be honest.
I was being ironic because sberry said that the only people who would recommend certain cues have something to gain. Here you are, recommending hand spliced for all the reasons I agree with and you're a cue expert and aren't in it to gain anything. Understand? Irony. Yes, I thought what you said were good points bud!
It's true that a player can adjust to throw, but a cue that throws less lets you cue straighter through the white ball and that is a big benefit. Trevor made a similar point last year. The fact is that some cues require a bigger adjustment than others and that's not the fault of the player.
you know what,, I'm going to tell you something that is really happened,, years ago !! I knew a player who always complaint about the deflection of the cue!! I said to him ones I'm going to prove that your disability has nothing to do with deflection of the cue but your poor technique!! We spent two cues! These 2 cues looked exactly the same ( both maple shaft ebony butt with a single splic B maple ). one of them was a Omin, and the other was a mastercue handmade!! I said to him,, play a few shots with both cues and tell me which one has more deflection!! (but he was'nt allowed to look at the badge). So, he played a few shots with both cues. He chose one of them ( was the Omin cue), and he said,, this one has more deflection!! I said to him leave the room and come back after 5 minutes!! He came back after 5 min. I said to him do it again. Play with both cues and tell me which has more deflection. And you know what happened? This time he (after playing a few shots), chose the Master cue and he said: this one has more deflection!!
my point is ... I'm with you that different types of wood deflect differently (because each wood has its own character). !!! But that's nothing compared to deflection what you get due to the poor technique of the player!! 9 out of 10 times is the player who caused the deflection and not the cue!!
If you want to buy a cue with less deflection. that's fine (nothing wrong with that). But the moment you think, you can't play snooker well because of the deflection or Ferrule or. .... will be the starting of the moment that your game will never improve!! You are the one who plays poor NOT the cue !!
you know what,, I'm going to tell you something that is really happened,, years ago !! I knew a player who always complaint about the deflection of the cue!! I said to him ones I'm going to prove that your disability has nothing to do with deflection of the cue but your poor technique!! We spent two cues! These 2 cues looked exactly the same ( both maple shaft ebony butt with a single splic B maple ). one of them was a Omin, and the other was a mastercue handmade!! I said to him,, play a few shots with both cues and tell me which one has more deflection!! (but he was'nt allowed to look at the badge). So, he played a few shots with both cues. He chose one of them ( was the Omin cue), and he said,, this one has more deflection!! I said to him leave the room and come back after 5 minutes!! He came back after 5 min. I said to him do it again. Play with both cues and tell me which has more deflection. And you know what happened? This time he (after playing a few shots), chose the Master cue and he said: this one has more deflection!!
my point is ... I'm with you that different types of wood deflect differently (because each wood has its own character). !!! But that's nothing compared to deflection what you get due to the poor technique of the player!! 9 out of 10 times is the player who caused the deflection and not the cue!!
If you want to buy a cue with less deflection. that's fine (nothing wrong with that). But the moment you think, you can't play snooker well because of the deflection or Ferrule or. .... will be the starting of the moment that your game will never improve!! You are the one who plays poor NOT the cue !!
Sigh.... you asked a question, I've answered, and you've acknowledged the only point I made, that some cues throw more than others. I didn't say that you can always tell which cue throws more when comparing two cues, because a lot of cues play quite similarly.
But what really hurts my feelings Raymo, is that you had to wrap your acknowledgement in yet another repetition of the whole "You only think it throws less because someone told you it's a low deflection cue." line. And by doing that, you assume that I'm unaware of the placebo effect or the power of suggestion in advertising, and you are presuming to know how I think. In any debate or discussion that will usually lose the respect of the other party. In fact you already had lost my respect in a previous thread when you contradicted me about De Roo laminated shafts. When I pointed out that in fact you were wrong, you went quiet and didn't bother to apologize for incorrectly contradicting me. In spite of this, I replied to your recent question politely.
In fact I am very well qualified in science which means that critical thinking is in my blood. You will never see me pulling imagined statistics like '9 out of 10' or '99.99%' out of my rectum to support an argument.
Cues can differ in terms of deflection (you've acknowledged this). I assert again that they can differ so much that it is noticeable, and less deflection can be a benefit. Your comments not only assume that I'm a poor player but that Steve Davis, Dominic Dale, Peter Ebdon, and some of the best pool players in Australia are idiots too, because they have all had positive things to say about synthetic ferrules. Sorry, but I'm willing to accept that there may be some truth to what they say before I'll swallow the view of someone who has repeatedly demonstrated poor cognition.
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