cue finishing

[sanman]

I polished granite tops in the kitchen. Stunning. Like black glass

Wax on, wax off, loads better than oil polishing. If you did that few times it would be near Aurora in finish.

Lovely video! Fred, it could take an eon for my liquid to concentrate. I need sanjay to fly me over some of his stuff. Or find some pure carnauaba from somewhere in the UK.

Sanjay, have you done this to balls ever, instead of Aramith polish?

[sanman]

To be honest Adam you don't even know you have a wax finish. Just a very smooth finish. You can feel the wood even after the polish because its such a thin layer. Its hard to descibe. Though as you handle the cue it becomes a finger printmagnet but a 10 second buff and you restore the finish

Sanjay, how does this feel in comparison to an oil finish or more traditional cue wax finish in the hand?

[darrenlowe79]

Does it go sticky in the heat?

[sanman]

Never had that issue darren. You still can feel the wood. I stay in south Africa and summers in durban is hot and sticky. Never had an issue with sticky cue.

Does it go sticky in the heat?

[darrenlowe79]

cue finishing

Nice job must give it a go

[sanman]

Nice job must give it a go

Wont hurt to try it once. As Ramon said its also marvellous if you like shiny ferrules

[sanman]

I see some on amazon. 11 ounces for alnost 8 dollars. By the way I have no vested interest in meguairs lol. I certainly wouldn't advise using very little at a time

Wax on, wax off, loads better than oil polishing. If you did that few times it would be near Aurora in finish.

Lovely video! Fred, it could take an eon for my liquid to concentrate. I need sanjay to fly me over some of his stuff. Or find some pure carnauaba from somewhere in the UK.

Sanjay, have you done this to balls ever, instead of Aramith polish?

[tetricky]

I use wire wool (00) and then MAAS polish, on ferrules. I have many grades of grit, and polishing tape and that would take all the fine scratches from the wire wool out....but lifes too short....wire wool and MAAS and it gleams like you wouldn't believe.

I have more trouble burnishing the side of the tip...MAAS works for that as well, but I'm sure its a bad idea (polish soaking into the leather).

[sanman]

Apply tape to shaft and the tip then apply wax. The difference is this wax lasts 3 months on cars. Hence it would be able to last as long on a ferrule. I polished my vehicle with it and it removes fine scratches around the door handle from paint. So no need to use abrasives on the ferrule. Just wax. Think I see a second vid. 30 seconds only on waxing the ferrule. Q

I use wire wool (00) and then MAAS polish, on ferrules. I have many grades of grit, and polishing tape and that would take all the fine scratches from the wire wool out....but lifes too short....wire wool and MAAS and it gleams like you wouldn't believe.

I have more trouble burnishing the side of the tip...MAAS works for that as well, but I'm sure its a bad idea (polish soaking into the leather).

[Master Blaster]

I see some on amazon. 11 ounces for alnost 8 dollars. By the way I have no vested interest in meguairs lol. I certainly wouldn't advise using very little at a time

With the liquid I have noticed that things are slightly squeeky shiny, a bit of extra grip. Not as good for grip as lacquer but better than matt worn ebony. One problem with unlacquered cues can be the butt slipping in the hand slightly. Mag wax appears to help this issue.

The key ingredient in these car dressings is carnauba wax. Just getting hold of some pure carnauba wax will be interesting one day.

[Leo]

I fully understand people like cues but I'm not getting this at all.

[tetricky]

I fully understand people like cues but I'm not getting this at all.

I have three new James Butters cues. Lovely things, but would/will/have benefited from a bit of finishing work. Trying to get advice and do it right. They are just about complete now, and I will know what I know, so that will be me broadly done.

[fbook]

after sanding the cue all i do is to rub the raw linseed oil (generous amount) with my bare hands with up n down stroke till the time the shaft or the butt gets very hot from the friction of my hand n take sm more n repeat the process of heating the stick.. as the wood generally are very dry they just absorb all the oil.

with out rubbing off the excess i just leave it over night n then buff it with soft dry towel n repeat the whole thing again two or three times more.

Then after two three days keep buffing it every now n then.

but then this makes the cue very sticky initially, but dont worry store the cue in a relatively dry n hot area n keep buffing,
the oil will take 3-5 weeks to dry to a nice finish depending upon the weather. more the temp the oil will cure quickly n vice versa.

just keep buffing n playing n buffing n enjoying.

This is the way i do it. some may do it other ways.

[Leo]

I have three new James Butters cues. Lovely things, but would/will/have benefited from a bit of finishing work. Trying to get advice and do it right. They are just about complete now, and I will know what I know, so that will be me broadly done.

Yep Butters cues are known to turn up with half of job done.

[mikeyd100]

With the liquid I have noticed that things are slightly squeeky shiny, a bit of extra grip. Not as good for grip as lacquer but better than matt worn ebony. One problem with unlacquered cues can be the butt slipping in the hand slightly. Mag wax appears to help this issue.

The key ingredient in these car dressings is carnauba wax. Just getting hold of some pure carnauba wax will be interesting one day.

Here is some pure wax - BeaverWax its called hahaa
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BeaverWax-...item3f4e43147f