cue finishing

[DeanH]

Hi Dean, any cue maker sells danish oil? Cant get any in Singapore.

not that I know of, but in Singapore the item may not be called Danish oil but a brand/make, but the liquid is Danish oil.
Anyone in Singapore/FE know of a brand/make that is Danish oil?

Rustins, Watco, Barrattine are a few makes I have found in a quick Google search

[tetricky]

Any cue oil that is clear? Because i dont wan to darken my splicing. Its a king wood splice and is now in a beautiful reddish brown tone

Tung oil definitely dries clearer than linseed. How it does as it ages, time will tell for me...but I'm predominantly using tung oil as a main finish currently (I'm prepping with 1/3 each of linseed, thinner, and tung, then a good long soak with linseed, then many applications of tung).

I don't use Danish oil - Danish oil is a mixture of varnish and tung (I believe) with the varnish so that it dries quicker/harder. I don't like varnish finishes.

[tofushop193]

The ideal cue oil for you would be Aurora. But getting them to ship anything is problematic at the moment.

I have the aurora cue oil. It gives nice color to the shaft. But unfortuntely it darkens my previous cue with rose wood splice

[Master Blaster]

I have the aurora cue oil. It gives nice color to the shaft. But unfortuntely it darkens my previous cue with rose wood splice

That's news to me. Hmmm. I think almost all oil will darken Rosewood. Most people like the darkening effect of oils on ebony but I guess you don't like it on some timbers. Even my own oil darkens timbers a tiny bit and it's very pale and super pure. I'll have a think about this.

[Dave Walton]

Any cue oil that is clear? Because i dont wan to darken my splicing. Its a king wood splice and is now in a beautiful reddish brown tone

Tung oil definitely dries clearer than linseed. How it does as it ages, time will tell for me...but I'm predominantly using tung oil as a main finish currently (I'm prepping with 1/3 each of linseed, thinner, and tung, then a good long soak with linseed, then many applications of tung).

I don't use Danish oil - Danish oil is a mixture of varnish and tung (I believe) with the varnish so that it dries quicker/harder. I don't like varnish finishes.

Some may contain varnish but with most it contains resins, the resins help to give a harder more protective water resistant finish without a varnished feel, Rustins original danish oil is very good for finishing cues

[tetricky]

That's news to me. Hmmm. I think almost all oil will darken Rosewood. Most people like the darkening effect of oils on ebony but I guess you don't like it on some timbers. Even my own oil darkens timbers a tiny bit and it's very pale and super pure. I'll have a think about this.

"Varnish is traditionally a combination of a drying oil, a resin, and a thinner or solvent"; "Danish oil is a hard drying oil, meaning it can polymerize into a solid form. It can be applied to provide a hard-wearing, water-resistant satin finish, or as a primer on bare wood before applying paint or varnish. It is a 'long oil' finish: a mixture of oil and varnish: typically around one third varnish and the rest predominantly of oil." (wikipedia)

So yes, and yes, to both of us. I prefer to just use the oil and thinners. I don't like varnish on a cue.

[David Pleym]

Hi Folks

Anyone had any first hand experience with MW's Ultrashine treatment? Looks the biz and I've picked myself up a beaut of a second hand Black Legend. Was thinking about sending it down for the rx.

Cheers
David

[tomwalker147]

Hi guys,

Any tips on maintaining the shine on a maple cue? I'm finding that playing in local clubs in a hot environment is causing my cue to pick up a lot of dirt/becoming sticky etc.

Are there any products out there that can help?

Cheers

[tetricky]

Hi guys,

Any tips on maintaining the shine on a maple cue? I'm finding that playing in local clubs in a hot environment is causing my cue to pick up a lot of dirt/becoming sticky etc.

Are there any products out there that can help?

Cheers

In all probability it's your hand, not your cue. The finish on your cue means you should be able to wipe it down clean (either dry, or with a slightly damp piece of kitchen towel/toilet roll, and then dry with your cue towel). Wash your hand, and dry it properly, any you'll probably find the magic slipperiness returns.

For many years I was like you - blaming the cue.....but next time you are at the snooker hall, look at your hands...it's amazing the amount of grime you get on them from the table, cloth, drinks, etc.. I now keep my hands clean, as much as I wipe the cue, and the problem has gone.

[tofushop193]

I think tom is right. There are times at the place I alwayd goes, like to safe their electricity bills and refuses to power up the aircon fully in the morning when there are not many people around. This cause my cue to be sticky.

[Shockerz]

Used Mike Wooldrige oil and Dave Coutts oil on 2 separate ash cues over the last couple of days.

The Wooldrige oil gave a very silky matt finish on the cue and was fairly light as regards bringing the wood colour out (great finish).

The Coutts oil gave the 2nd cue more of an antique glossy finish which was also nice and smooth.

The 2 cues are both nice finishes but different.

Does this sound about right with these cue oils or does anyone have different experiences as they may have completed more coats etc (I applied 3 light coats to each).