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Removing Laquer From A Shaft

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  • #16
    I must admit using sand paper on Ash I have to complete refinish including filling the grain. Have you stripped any of the modern Chinese cues, last one I did took me forever, used the aurora filler on it and was very impressed with it.
    No one is listening until you make a mistake!

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    • #17
      never use filler, sounds like the cues not cut right

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      • #18
        Originally Posted by Maverick54 View Post
        Decided to leave it natural in the end and just rubbed a bit of Raw linseed oil in it. Really pleased with the results.

        Having the shaft stained in a dark oak did appeal to me but I was wasn't sure wether it might hide the grain pattern or not (don't think it would) If it did go wrong tho it would take a lot of sanding to remove the stain after it had penetrated the wood.
        The linseed wasn't the boiled type Mav?

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        • #19
          Originally Posted by Master Blaster View Post
          The linseed wasn't the boiled type Mav?
          Putting Boiled Oil on your shaft is just asking for a trip to A&E in my book
          "When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it." - Henry Ford

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          • #20
            Originally Posted by Maverick54 View Post
            Putting Boiled Oil on your shaft is just asking for a trip to A&E in my book
            I wouldn't be surprised me if you said you'd put on used engine oil......

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            • #21
              Originally Posted by j6uk View Post
              never use filler, sounds like the cues not cut right
              Quite standard to fill the grain on ash whether filler or a slurry created by oil and sanding. Of course the grain doesn't have to be filled all personal preference, doesn't mean there is a problem with the cue.

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              • #22
                if its taking forever to fill the grain it simply makes me think of unulations in the shaft, something that rarely occurs in a hand planed cue

                Originally Posted by stejohn View Post
                Quite standard to fill the grain on ash whether filler or a slurry created by oil and sanding. Of course the grain doesn't have to be filled all personal preference, doesn't mean there is a problem with the cue.

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                • #23
                  Originally Posted by j6uk View Post
                  if its taking forever to fill the grain it simply makes me think of unulations in the shaft, something that rarely occurs in a hand planed cue
                  Was removing the varnish that took forever, don't think anyone would hand plane a cue then dip it it with about 50 coats of varnish like the Chinese do?
                  No one is listening until you make a mistake!

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                  • #24
                    Originally Posted by stejohn View Post
                    Quite standard to fill the grain on ash whether filler or a slurry created by oil and sanding. Of course the grain doesn't have to be filled all personal preference, doesn't mean there is a problem with the cue.
                    Hi, afew questions! Sanding the cue with oil how is it done? What's the grit of sand paper you use to do it? Then leave it to dry for how long? And how do you remove the residue after that? Sorry trying to refinish my own cue and fill up the pores

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                    • #25
                      Have a bit of kitchen roll or cloth with oil on it before you start to oil sand. Apply a little oik to fine wet and dry paper(1000 grit) then as you rub the cue down, lightly rub the excess off with the oily rag. Continue this until you are happy with result.
                      "Don't think, feel"

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                      • #26
                        Originally Posted by The Doctor View Post
                        Have a bit of kitchen roll or cloth with oil on it before you start to oil sand. Apply a little oik to fine wet and dry paper(1000 grit) then as you rub the cue down, lightly rub the excess off with the oily rag. Continue this until you are happy with result.
                        The grit of the sand paper need to increase?

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                        • #27
                          For the final finish you should use something like "Winners cue paper" sold on ebay for about £7 . (Q-smooth is even finer I think) You get 3 papers with the finest being about 15000 . Then you apply cue oil or turpentine beeswax polish. I use a brand called "Lord Sheratons". Apply a generous amount, leave overnight preferably in a warm room , and then the soft cloth rubbing begins

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                          • #28
                            I used a piece of broken glass to strip varnish from a cue once. It worked really well.
                            Acting experience: When I play snooker and I make a shot, I act like I meant to do it.

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                            • #29
                              Has anyone ever used Nitromors?

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