Cue oil - can someone tell me what's the best oil for your cue?

[Rikki147]

Hello,
Can someone tell me what's the best oil for your cue to make it super smooth? I've tried linseed oil and various others but some feel sticky and others like linseed doesn't dry and just feels oily. If anyone knows what's best can you tell me? Thanks

[DeanH]

there are many oils out there, from Linseed oil - raw, linseed oil - boiled, to tung, etc, to cue makers' own concoctions
but from your description I would first say it sounds like your are applying too much of the oil in the first place and then also not wiping off the excess a few minutes after application. and allowing to dry - raw linseed can take days to dry, boiled is quicker, others vary as well. Then buff with dry clean cloth, paper towels, and then buff some more, repeat buffing, and just for luck buff again
Also ensure that your hands are clean and dry.
I have only used Linseed oil on my cues and the feel smooth not sticky.
next question, what was the finish originally on the cue before you applied the new coat? adding oil on top of varnish/lacquer wont do anything to the wood as the oil will sit on top of the varnish/lacquer.

[Rikki147]

Thanks mate, all my cues that I've tried with are all oil finishes but somehow I can get the knack of getting it right, like I said I've tried raw linseed and boiled but raw just never seems to dry, every time I get my cue out to play it feels oily lol maybe like you said I put too much on the begin with. I've heard of tung oil but never used it, do people mix it with linseed oil then apply it? Whenever I buy a new cue they seem super smooth but after a year or so they go a little rough so I've tried to re oil but never seem to get it right, I'm sure these cue makers have a secret recipe that their not telling us lol

[DeanH]

I understand that tung can be tricky to get right.
I use raw Linseed as I have a bottle on the go, had it for years and will last for years to come
other like boiled as it dries quicker but I am happy with raw as I leave the cues to air dry for about a week, with frequent buffing, and they come out good.
Many have said the Aurora oil is very good, I tried it once, yes it was good, just as good as my linseed oil.
MW has his own oil, which others have also said it good.
JP has his own, ditto from above.
personal choice (as with most things with cues ) will be the main reason for one over another...
other say "never oil a cue" but I don't like that "dry" feeling, personal choice
but I will say, I don't oil as often as I used to with my old 2pc cheapo cue, my new cues have better finish on them to start with.
Stick/tacky cues often points to too much oil being applied and not wiped off, and too many applications of oil. You can cue it by using fine wirewool/sandpaper - I have used 1000grit in the past to bring back a friends cue from the tacky state

Oiling - if in doubt, don't (and maybe send to a cue doctor/maker )

[The Doctor]

Danish oil works well. Apply little and make sure it's dry before you apply any more. Also a good tip is to use around 1000-1200 wet and dry paper and wet sand the cue. Leave the paper in water for around 30 mins and take out shake dry and rub cue down. This will give a silky smooth finish.
Hope this helps.

[jaffa.johnson]

Just to touch a side from the which oil question as you mentioned super smooth.

My opinion is that is mainly down to the sanding, you can use whichever oil you like on a rough bit of wood and it will still be rough.

To create an ultra smooth finish you need it to be ultra smooth barewood / grain if ash. Working on the theory this is happening then the above has it covers for which oil.

If not then maybe you should look at the sanding methods.

[Master Blaster]

Use the lightest oil possible, one that lasts around 3mths before needing done again. Reason: heavier oils lead the cue being wiped more after play because oils like linseed attract dirt and gum up. Aurora's oil is pretty good. But I make my own oil up which is lighter still and purer, less crap in it. Never ever use mineral oils or beeswax or polishes or boot polish. These things ruin the finish and make the cue stick in the bridge. Oiling a cue every 3mths isn't difficult, it's literally a few drops on a rag rubbed up and down, and left overnight. Done in a minute.

[Chappy5]

This.....



11 Pound from Mike Wooldridges Web site.

1 Bottle will do a stack of Cues and the finish this gives is sensational when buffed dry with a decent towel and very easy to apply. I have used it on every Cue i have and it is awesome.

[Master Blaster]

Mine, but I don't sell it. Best oil ever.

[Chappy5]

Mine, but I don't sell it. Best oil ever.