Oil or Wax

[tetricky]

I use oil, sand and wire wool the cue to your taste, and you can get any level of finish you require.

[Shockerz]

I'm just experimenting at the moment and using Dave Coutts and also Mike Wooldridge cue oil after taking two bent cues back to wood.

I have re-grained them using Aurora grain filler and gone through the sanding stages up to 3000 and they feel lovely, ready to oil now. Off on a day trip so it will be interesting to see how they both fair after a few coats (or coutts) and if there is a noticeable difference.

What would be a good question to me is once there is a build up of sweat, grime and dirt, what would be a good way to maintain the new finish and keep it smooth.

I've always used a damp cloth but in the past this has washed any grain filler out and within a game or two the stickiness is back even after using white spirit, 000 grade etc and various other recommended methods.

Used furniture polish on a cue once whilst in the kitchen. The floor became so slippery I nearly speared the wife.

Funny, been using it in the kitchen ever since!

[Dave Walton]

I'm just experimenting at the moment and using Dave Coutts and also Mike Wooldridge cue oil after taking two bent cues back to wood.

I have re-grained them using Aurora grain filler and gone through the sanding stages up to 3000 and they feel lovely, ready to oil now. Off on a day trip so it will be interesting to see how they both fair after a few coats (or coutts) and if there is a noticeable difference.

What would be a good question to me is once there is a build up of sweat, grime and dirt, what would be a good way to maintain the new finish and keep it smooth.

I've always used a damp cloth but in the past this has washed any grain filler out and within a game or two the stickiness is back even after using white spirit, 000 grade etc and various other recommended methods.

Used furniture polish on a cue once whilst in the kitchen. The floor became so slippery I nearly speared the wife.

Funny, been using it in the kitchen ever since!

Wash your hand regularly, and just buff your cue with a towel,. When using a damp towel it should be rung out well so its almost dry, if its pulling the filler out then your towel is too wet

[Shockerz]

Wash your hand regularly, and just buff your cue with a towel,. When using a damp towel it should be rung out well so its almost dry, if its pulling the filler out then your towel is too wet

Hi Dave

Actually scrub hands prior to every game of snooker and yep, I wring the towel right out. Cue around 5 years old and is a Paris so is oiled. I've been using the damp towel method forever so not sure why no good on this cue.....

I've finished a couple of coats of Mike's cue oil after sanding and it's looking really good. Will use 0000 steel wool, re-oil and buff again tomorrow and see what this brings; the butt looks good already compared to the really damaged butt prior to treating, nice wood!

[sfmcar]

I've just sampled some of the Dave Coutts cue oil. Applied it exactly as directed on his website, and a couple of days later wiped down cue with a damp cloth and buffed it dry. I can't recommend it highly enough. The cue is as smooth as a maple now.10 out of 10

[mikeyd100]

Best oil I've used too, recommended to me on here by Byrom.

[justf]

I have used many oils and waxes. Just tried MW oil, dont rate it. Followed instructions and think its not that great.
ADR wax is good, but try to avoid getting too much on butt as can get sticky no matter how well u buff.
Coutts oil is very good leave on 90mins then buff like a mad man and u get a nice finish.
I would like to know if anyone knows better oil/wax for a silky smooth finish.

[Ramon]

Best oil I've used too, recommended to me on here by Byrom.

Well, That's Byrom !! IF he uses his common sense , he can be useful to the members of this forum indeed !!

[mikeyd100]

Well, That's Byrom !! IF he uses his common sense , he can be useful to the members of this forum indeed !!

Thanks Ramon, it was a good recommendation for sure

[Shockerz]

I've just sampled some of the Dave Coutts cue oil. Applied it exactly as directed on his website, and a couple of days later wiped down cue with a damp cloth and buffed it dry. I can't recommend it highly enough. The cue is as smooth as a maple now.10 out of 10

Applied Mr Coutts oil a few days ago and been sanding, wire wooling and buffing like mad whilst applying 3 coats.

Used the cue today for 8 frames and it was really nice and smooth, so much so it was difficult to concentrate!

Buffed it as soon as I got home and it's the best it's ever been, thoroughly recommend and certainly didn't use much out of the bottle. It also gave a beautiful deep shine to the ash.

[ronfor0603]

How about gunstock oil? I think it would work fine for cues to. Just a thought

[DeanH]

How about gunstock oil? I think it would work fine for cues to. Just a thought

only for the butt not the shaft from what I have heard.

[tetricky]

I use a third each raw linseed, tung, and thinners, as a preparation coat (the thinners helps the oil soak deeper into the wood). Then a couple of coats raw linseed for colour, and finish with tung (having given the linseed time to cure). I use wet/dry 600, 1000, and 2000 grit sandpaper (the first wet with oil to fill and stain the grain), and fine wire wool. So: prep coat, then sand with linseed at 600 grit. Wipe off after half an hour, buff after a day. Sand with 1000, and linseed. Wipe off after an hour, buff after a day, leave for a week to cure. Repeat with 2000 and linseed. Then wire wool and and finish with tung. I might vary the coats if I want more colour, or sand more if I want smoother (once a paper is clogged it's finer, so old 1000 and 2000 papers can give a nice glassy smooth shine if you want it). I might vary the coats (more linseed for a darker more mature wood look, less linseed more tung to hold the colour nearer to what it currently is).

I find I can get pretty much any finish I want, in terms of smoothness of feel, to the colour of ash I want. Ebony and decorative splices sparkle. I don't actually like it too smooth and over finished. I like it to still feel like wood.

[mikeyd100]

How about gunstock oil? I think it would work fine for cues to. Just a thought

DeanH is right, Tru-Oil gives a great shiny finish for butts, however its no good for the shaft in terms of a smooth bridge etc.

[Dave Walton]

Wash your hand regularly, and just buff your cue with a towel,. When using a damp towel it should be rung out well so its almost dry, if its pulling the filler out then your towel is too wet

Hi Dave

Actually scrub hands prior to every game of snooker and yep, I wring the towel right out. Cue around 5 years old and is a Paris so is oiled. I've been using the damp towel method forever so not sure why no good on this cue.....

I've finished a couple of coats of Mike's cue oil after sanding and it's looking really good. Will use 0000 steel wool, re-oil and buff again tomorrow and see what this brings; the butt looks good already compared to the really damaged butt prior to treating, nice wood!

High grit wet and dry is probably better to use on ash than wire wool mate