Ferrules, tip size, throw, squirt, deflection etc - My results

[fg147]

Hi All,

before i continue, i would to add that the following results are purely based on my trial and error/exercises. so inevitably it will be my opinion lol.

i recently acquired 3 cues(almost identical in specs) butt size, taper, tip, size, weight, balance and even wood type and design.

i put 3 different ferrules on each cue - brass, stainless steel, black composite (similar to the MW blackspin)
i received three different results and they go as follows:

i will use my examples in the break off shot. white one inch away from brown, between yellow and brown playing 2 o clock (top right hand side) aiming for last red of the pack.

with the brass ferrule, i hit the third ball from the pack. with the SS i hot the second ball from the pack and the black ferrule i hit the last ball, which i intended to hit from the start.
with this i realised that the heavier the ferrule, the more the white will push in the opposite side of the side spin played.

now this is fine if you used to it, however, doesnt it help when the white goes slightly straighter and less off course - like it did with the black ferrule?

due to the fact that i have been playing with the black ferrule the last few months, i am automatically adjusted to aim at the point as if i am using the black ferrule. hence me hitting the wrong contact point with the other 2 cues. for some this may differ as they only play with brass.

secondly i have noticed something else, the black ferrule tends to grip the white alot quicker. meaning i feel i am getting more screw back on shorter shots. eg. when i break the pack off the black spot , the white rips through the pack much quicker than the brass or SS ferrules.
also on shorter screw backs i get further distance with the black ferrule.

on long shots its completely the opposite. when i place the white in the D, and a red straight in line roughly around the black spot. i can screw a further distance with the brass ferrule than any other ferrule. it seems as if the lighter ferrules have lost the spin over the distance of the table whereas the brass ferrules holds the screw for a tad longer.

im just curious to see if there is anyone else that may have similar results in such test.

i know this topic has been discussed at depth, but this is the first time i have actually put it to the test myself and these are the results i came with.

looking forward to your comments..

[jim evans]

This is why I use a pigeon ring type ferrule.

[Hello, Mr Big Shot]

Hi All,

before i continue, i would to add that the following results are purely based on my trial and error/exercises. so inevitably it will be my opinion lol.

i recently acquired 3 cues(almost identical in specs) butt size, taper, tip, size, weight, balance and even wood type and design.

i put 3 different ferrules on each cue - brass, stainless steel, black composite (similar to the MW blackspin)
i received three different results and they go as follows:

i will use my examples in the break off shot. white one inch away from brown, between yellow and brown playing 2 o clock (top right hand side) aiming for last red of the pack.

with the brass ferrule, i hit the third ball from the pack. with the SS i hot the second ball from the pack and the black ferrule i hit the last ball, which i intended to hit from the start.
with this i realised that the heavier the ferrule, the more the white will push in the opposite side of the side spin played.

now this is fine if you used to it, however, doesnt it help when the white goes slightly straighter and less off course - like it did with the black ferrule?

due to the fact that i have been playing with the black ferrule the last few months, i am automatically adjusted to aim at the point as if i am using the black ferrule. hence me hitting the wrong contact point with the other 2 cues. for some this may differ as they only play with brass.

secondly i have noticed something else, the black ferrule tends to grip the white alot quicker. meaning i feel i am getting more screw back on shorter shots. eg. when i break the pack off the black spot , the white rips through the pack much quicker than the brass or SS ferrules.
also on shorter screw backs i get further distance with the black ferrule.

on long shots its completely the opposite. when i place the white in the D, and a red straight in line roughly around the black spot. i can screw a further distance with the brass ferrule than any other ferrule. it seems as if the lighter ferrules have lost the spin over the distance of the table whereas the brass ferrules holds the screw for a tad longer.

im just curious to see if there is anyone else that may have similar results in such test.

i know this topic has been discussed at depth, but this is the first time i have actually put it to the test myself and these are the results i came with.

looking forward to your comments..

Good stuff. Your findings are consistent with testing and conventional wisdom. You may want to check dr dave's site for everything you always wanted to know about deflection but were afraid to ask. There's a ton of great info on azbilliards, a recent example is below. I'm sure Dr Dave would like to hear of your experiences of getting through the ball better with the plastic ferrule.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=417113

In short, the greater the mass at the tip end, the greater the cue will deflect. So, a 11mm cue will deflect more than an 8mm cue. Metal ferrules are heavier than their plastic counterparts (presumably).

There are a wealth of low deflection shafts for american pool, where 13 and 14mm shafts deflect like crazy, but it is less of an issue in snooker or english pool circles, so they aren't really necessary.

Incidentally, you need to be careful of swerve, particularly over further distances, such as when breaking. After being struck by the cue with side, the CB deflects (more correctly squirts) in the opposite direction, then swerves back. In short, there is a point where swerve and deflection even out, which is one reason many snooker/english pool players are completely unaware of deflection. Many players also use back hand english, which is a way of pivoting your cue to eliminate deflection, but that's for another time.

It's encouraging to see snooker players experiment in this way. How the balls react when they collide is extremely interesting - again look up dr dave's work on throw.

[Hello, Mr Big Shot]

This is why I use a pigeon ring type ferrule.

What's that?

[bolton-cueman]

What's that?

a thin walled brass ferrule

[mrbluejay]

The two cues that Andy Travis is making for me as we speak will both have plastic ferrules with this in mind.

[DeanH]

a thin walled brass ferrule

and often not a "tall" as normal brass ferrules

[jrc750]

This is why I use a pigeon ring type ferrule.

What's that?

a thin walled brass ferrule

And quite often very short too, like this middle one

[jrc750]

and often not a "tall" as normal brass ferrules

Snap !!!!

[Hello, Mr Big Shot]

And quite often very short too, like this middle one

Thanks, not seen one of those before. Are there any disadvantages to them?

[jim evans]

Not if you keep the tip in good condition, if you let it get very low you could bend it.