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Was re tipping my cue and got superglue on the shaft and can feel it when cueing how do i safely get it off ??
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Scrape as much as you can off with a scalpel or Stanley blade, then rub down with 0000 wire wool, what ever you do don't try using anything like turps on it.No one is listening until you make a mistake! -
Absolutely. Tiny increments is the best policy, don't rush.Originally Posted by culraven View PostComment
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cheers lads had a problem similar with my last que took fine grade sandpaper to it and long story short ive a new cue lolComment
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Doesn't sound like you are much of a handyman, good luck if you ever get to put a full size table together lol. What cue and tip are you using?Originally Posted by Tommykiid View PostComment
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to be fair hand sanded in the pub not the best idea ive ever had but i use a standerd production riley now with 10mm elk masterOriginally Posted by markz View PostComment
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Don't use a Stanley or scalpal unless your skilled with one, countless folk have shaved pieces off this way.
Do use nail varnish remover (or neat acetone) if the glue is fresh on, it's a solvent for methyl methyl acrylate amongst other things.
If it's been on a while, invest in a needle file from ebay, just a couple of quid, then gently file the glue off. Put a drop of oil on the bare wood. Don't worry about it not being uber smooth, it will become smooth as you play it.Last edited by focus; 3 March 2016, 07:22 PM.Comment
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Please don't listen to this advice, you do not have to be skilled, just hold it at 90 degrees and gently scrape.Originally Posted by focus View Post
Never take a file to your cue, it will either grip the glue and pull wood away with it or simply take gouges out of your cue. As for the nail varnish remover, you have already told us your using a Riley which we can assume is varnished, this will strip the varnish as well as the glue! If you had an oil finished cue it would merely thin the glue out allowing it to penetrate and damage the wood.No one is listening until you make a mistake!Comment
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Yeh its a varnish finish not an oilComment
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You thought about stripping the varnish off the shaft? Oil finish feels so much smoother on the bridge hand.Originally Posted by Tommykiid View PostComment
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nitromose , then scrape it, won't hurt the wood BUT just to be sure wipe it of with a damp clothComment
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Yep, stuff the sanding route. You will need to finish it however because cues with varnish on aren't fine finished underneath. So after the nitro, it will be p600, p1000, p2000, then used p2000 with cue oil, then rough wool oiled cloth (snooker cloth is idea) up and down, then something like oiled fleece, then oiled soft cotton (old t-shirt material). Then dry soft cotton for at least an hour. Voila.Originally Posted by golferson123 View Post
But if you have a buffing machine, lots of time saved! lol
If the shaft is varnished I guess you could use a Stanley but a medical needle file is more accurate and less likely to do damage as you can file gently as you go close up. You don't see a surgeon take a stanley to a patient and I wouldn't take one to a cue shaft. Brutal. If the shaft is varnished, nail polish remover (acetone) is the answer for new superglue marks. The emergency services use it to get people unstuck without damaging skin. Skin is more delicate than wood remember.Last edited by focus; 3 March 2016, 09:01 PM.Comment
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I've never used superglue remover. I'd take this chance just to strip the varnish off and oil finish the cue as focus says above.Originally Posted by Shockerz View PostComment
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No, varnish needs a much stronger solvent like nitro to affect it. But if the glue is hard dried, more than a couple of hours, you'd have to rub nail polish remover on it like buggery to get it off. Might still be worth a try I guess. One of the few advantages of being shacked up is nail polish remover will be in your house somewhere. LOLOriginally Posted by Shockerz View PostComment
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