My workshop

[billabong]

I have a small one somewhere.
Always wanted to get a slate stone but were to much money at the time.
Yes it makes a very big difference the finger stone you use and strop my plane iron and chisel's with leather glue to a block of MDF, with some metal polish.
Will see if i can find a link for the ceramic stone, with are very good for a final finish.

Are the hard Arkansas stones any use for sharpening ?

I use one in my work for taking any small burrs or raised areas off of damaged hardened steel surfaces
( prior to calibrating digital calipers, etc. . . ).

[Shockerz]

I use 2 grades of diamond stone whetted with white spirit and finish with a polished marble stone also whetted with white spirit. Blades are super sharp afterwards.

Why white spirit vmax, not heard of that.

[Shockerz]

https://www.heinnie.com/spyderco-cer...rpening-stones

I have two of these but never paid this for them
I have a medium and fine one.

Not cheap then mate! I can't think what I paid for mine though.

I also use a strop...........especially when things go wrong!

[Ninja.cues]

https://www.heinnie.com/spyderco-cer...rpening-stones

I have two of these but never paid this for them
I have a medium and fine one.

[Ninja.cues]

I have a small one somewhere.
Always wanted to get a slate stone but were to much money at the time.
Yes it makes a very big difference the finger stone you use and strop my plane iron and chisel's with leather glue to a block of MDF, with some metal polish.
Will see if i can find a link for the ceramic stone, with are very good for a final finish.

[vmax]

I use 2 grades of diamond stone whetted with white spirit and finish with a polished marble stone also whetted with white spirit. Blades are super sharp afterwards.

[Shockerz]

Hi vmax,
Have the Stanley scraper..like a big spoke shave and understand how good they are.
Having been an Antique furniture restorer for over 30 year's but understand why you've got the plane now.
To get a finger finish with it, it helps to use the finished stone you have before you turn the edge.
I use a very fine ceramic stone when i want a really good finish and for to hear things are looking up.
Merry Christmas

I had a guy come in and sharpen all my planes up a little while ago who was showing me his method from years ago. He mentioned that he fine sharpens all his blades with a slate after using a grinding wheel etc and is better than stones etc (I have all the grades).

Because he had just moved he didn't have it with him but I wondered if any of you guys had ever sharpened using a slate; not one I had heard of before.

For those of you on Facebook, here's a couple of links to him doing things (you'll have to scroll through the pics / Videos on each as not sure how to post the direct post Facebook links here:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater

https://www.facebook.com/marc.lockle...type=3&theater

Cleaning the sandpaper on the machines: https://www.facebook.com/marc.lockle...type=3&theater

[Ninja.cues]

Now that makes sense. I have a half round scraper, but you misunderstand, I'm not worried about flat spots; without a flat bed the blade will always cut more from the softer grain than the harder wood and leave a scalloped finish that will then need to be sanded, hence the need for a scaper plane. I'll still use a 300 grade and 0000 steel wool for the final finish but when planing really hard timber like ipe or ekki and the flaky wenge this will mean a lot less sanding from 1/0.5mm oversize for fear of tear out.
Scraper planes when properly set up do not tear out and they leave a finish equivalent to fine sanding, how fine I shall find out and maybe I won't need any 300 grade either.

Merry xmas to all on the forum. I am having a good one so far, sold my Honda X4 for £3000 last week, sold a cue today, things are looking up.

Hi vmax,
Have the Stanley scraper..like a big spoke shave and understand how good they are.
Having been an Antique furniture restorer for over 30 year's but understand why you've got the plane now.
To get a finger finish with it, it helps to use the finished stone you have before you turn the edge.
I use a very fine ceramic stone when i want a really good finish and for to hear things are looking up.
Merry Christmas

[vmax]

Get a card scraper and file half round shapes on the edges to scrape the cue with, so you don't get flat spots.
Can draw something to show you if you want?

****, joys of being dyslexic and can seeing what I've written, instead of what is there lol

Now that makes sense. I have a half round scraper, but you misunderstand, I'm not worried about flat spots; without a flat bed the blade will always cut more from the softer grain than the harder wood and leave a scalloped finish that will then need to be sanded, hence the need for a scaper plane. I'll still use a 300 grade and 0000 steel wool for the final finish but when planing really hard timber like ipe or ekki and the flaky wenge this will mean a lot less sanding from 1/0.5mm oversize for fear of tear out.
Scraper planes when properly set up do not tear out and they leave a finish equivalent to fine sanding, how fine I shall find out and maybe I won't need any 300 grade either.

Merry xmas to all on the forum. I am having a good one so far, sold my Honda X4 for £3000 last week, sold a cue today, things are looking up.

[Ninja.cues]

I'm sorry but I don't know what this means.

Get a card scraper and file half round shapes on the edges to scrape the cue with, so you don't get flat spots.
Can draw something to show you if you want?

****, joys of being dyslexic and can seeing what I've written, instead of what is there lol

[vmax]

Could you not very filled some half round shapes into a scraper as I'm thinking about doing this myself, so less chance of flat spots..

I'm sorry but I don't know what this means.

[Ninja.cues]

I've been using hand scrapers so far but they cut more of the softer grain than the harder wood and as there's no bed to hold the blade level on every pass the shaft ends up slightly scalloped and needs sanding to level it. Mine is a Luban 112, a chinese maker of good reputation on woodworking forums and is half the price of a Lei Neilson 112 which is supposed to be the best. I looked at the Kunz 112 which is the cheapest but it had bad reviews so I went middle ground and I'm very pleased with the Luban, very well made.

https://www.workshopheaven.com/quang...per-plane.html

As for bench polishing then an ordinary bench grinder, guards removed and fitted with polishing mops will do the job, that's what I have.

Could you not very filled some half round shapes into a scraper as I'm thinking about doing this myself, so less chance of flat spots..

[Shockerz]

I've been using hand scrapers so far but they cut more of the softer grain than the harder wood and as there's no bed to hold the blade level on every pass the shaft ends up slightly scalloped and needs sanding to level it. Mine is a Luban 112, a chinese maker of good reputation on woodworking forums and is half the price of a Lei Neilson 112 which is supposed to be the best. I looked at the Kunz 112 which is the cheapest but it had bad reviews so I went middle ground and I'm very pleased with the Luban, very well made.

https://www.workshopheaven.com/quang...per-plane.html

As for bench polishing then an ordinary bench grinder, guards removed and fitted with polishing mops will do the job, that's what I have.

I saw a polisher set up on a bench grinder. It had an extended rod and multiple polishing wheels along the rod with gaps (around 4 or 5). When you ran the cue over it it did a big surface area at a time so looking to build or preferably buy something like that.

I love your scraper, very tempted to get one!

[Shockerz]

Shocks, how many benches do you need to polish?

:biggrin:

Took me a while to get that............I'm getting older!

[vmax]

Like that Vmax, I do like a scraper.

I'm after a bench polisher if you know where I can get one with multiple wheels etc.

I've been using hand scrapers so far but they cut more of the softer grain than the harder wood and as there's no bed to hold the blade level on every pass the shaft ends up slightly scalloped and needs sanding to level it. Mine is a Luban 112, a chinese maker of good reputation on woodworking forums and is half the price of a Lei Neilson 112 which is supposed to be the best. I looked at the Kunz 112 which is the cheapest but it had bad reviews so I went middle ground and I'm very pleased with the Luban, very well made.

https://www.workshopheaven.com/quang...per-plane.html

As for bench polishing then an ordinary bench grinder, guards removed and fitted with polishing mops will do the job, that's what I have.