Originally Posted by the lone wolf
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Originally Posted by the lone wolf View Post
Do you have pics of the African heavy mahogany?
I'm currently having a few cues made and maybe able to do a deal for one cue which hasn't been spliced yet.
PM if preferred
Species, Khaya grandifoliola or Khaya senegalensis.
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these were a couple of blanks i sold. and another pic of a block.
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these are them rough but i do have a pic of a finished bit somewhere.
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Originally Posted by se7enthhell View Postsome fantastic looking cues being made on here, what do people prefer to use for solid butts or splices?
i have genuine and Argentine Lignum vitae if anyone is interested?
i also have Olivewood, african heavy mahogany, Wenge, rippled Jarrah, Angelim pedra and many more if anyone is interested?
I'm currently having a few cues made and maybe able to do a deal for one cue which hasn't been spliced yet.
PM if preferred
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some fantastic looking cues being made on here, what do people prefer to use for solid butts or splices?
i have genuine and Argentine Lignum vitae if anyone is interested?
i also have Olivewood, african heavy mahogany, Wenge, rippled Jarrah, Angelim pedra and many more if anyone is interested?
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My latest guitar build, a BC Rich Mockingbird style kit guitar, three piece meranti body, black waxed to highlight the grain and finished in boiled linseed, maple neck coloured with black indian ink, oiled and waxed, topped off with my own style pickguard which was a pig to get as the supplier sent it folded so it cracked along the folds, so I messaged them to send another but rolled in a hard tube but they sent it folded again and it cracked again along the folds so I got a refund and used what I could to make something less than what I wanted.
Turned out OK I guess but I wanted to hide the three piece body below the top piece which as you can see is nicely figured unlike the othe two pieces. These kits are supplied to be painted so the three or two piece bodies don't need to match and usually a thin veneer is topped for a one piece natural wood finish but I don't have the tools for that and didn't want to hide the top piece.
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you have created some beautiful cues, it is good to see skilled craftsmen are still around
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Originally Posted by rapidh32 View PostDo you have any idea how much weight was removed by taking off the lacquer/varnish, and how did the diametre change.Customer isn't a player, simply wanted his dad's cue as a momento.
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Do you have any idea how much weight was removed by taking off the lacquer/varnish, and how did the diametre change.
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Totally agree about the titanium ferrule, there is no magical properties to it. It stays shiny which is nice and is a harder metal so should last longer re tipping wise, although I have seen some butchered.
Nice Post Vmax, good read thanks.
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Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View PostHow does pearwood play, closer to maple than ash?
The 58..75 inch one with the 10.5mm buffalo horn ferrule also played very well, first poke a 48 break and those who belive you can't screw back as much as with a smaller ferrule/tip then all I can say is that the break ended with a massive overscrew that lost me position. The fact that the shaft is obviously a bit thicker doesn't seem to matter, feel is very good and it's true that it's easier to find the middle of the cue ball, the black buffalo horn ferrule helps with this as well.
All in all pearwood works very well and it's simply the aesthetics of the timber one needs to get used to, but I believe that any decent hardwood will make a good cue, maple and ash are simply plentiful and cheap and don't possess any magical cue making properties.Last edited by vmax; 24 August 2022, 09:56 AM.
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Finished these two yesterday, 6 coats of boiled linseed oil finish over the next couple of days should suffice.
60 inch curly pearwood 3/4, wenge butt with coconut splice, 10mm titanium ferrle, 17 oz's, 20 inch bp
58.75 inch curly pearwood 3/4, coconut butt, 10.5mm buffalo horn ferrule, 17.65 oz's, 18.75 inch bp
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