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  • se7enthhell
    replied
    Originally Posted by the lone wolf View Post

    Do you have pics of the African heavy mahogany?

    I'm currently having a few cues made and maybe able to do a deal for one cue which hasn't been spliced yet.

    PM if preferred
    this is a block that is super heavy and already sanded to 150g all 4 sides i think. i sanded this bit to 400g and added a bit of oil to see how nicely it came up.




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  • se7enthhell
    replied
    Originally Posted by the lone wolf View Post

    Do you have pics of the African heavy mahogany?

    I'm currently having a few cues made and maybe able to do a deal for one cue which hasn't been spliced yet.

    PM if preferred
    this is the heavy mahogany finished with just danish oil.

    Species, Khaya grandifoliola or Khaya senegalensis.

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  • se7enthhell
    replied
    these were a couple of blanks i sold. and another pic of a block.



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  • se7enthhell
    replied
    one of my containers.

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  • se7enthhell
    replied
    these are them rough but i do have a pic of a finished bit somewhere.

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  • the lone wolf
    replied
    Originally Posted by se7enthhell View Post
    some fantastic looking cues being made on here, what do people prefer to use for solid butts or splices?

    i have genuine and Argentine Lignum vitae if anyone is interested?

    i also have Olivewood, african heavy mahogany, Wenge, rippled Jarrah, Angelim pedra and many more if anyone is interested?
    Do you have pics of the African heavy mahogany?

    I'm currently having a few cues made and maybe able to do a deal for one cue which hasn't been spliced yet.

    PM if preferred

    Leave a comment:


  • se7enthhell
    replied
    some fantastic looking cues being made on here, what do people prefer to use for solid butts or splices?

    i have genuine and Argentine Lignum vitae if anyone is interested?

    i also have Olivewood, african heavy mahogany, Wenge, rippled Jarrah, Angelim pedra and many more if anyone is interested?

    Leave a comment:


  • vmax
    replied
    My latest guitar build, a BC Rich Mockingbird style kit guitar, three piece meranti body, black waxed to highlight the grain and finished in boiled linseed, maple neck coloured with black indian ink, oiled and waxed, topped off with my own style pickguard which was a pig to get as the supplier sent it folded so it cracked along the folds, so I messaged them to send another but rolled in a hard tube but they sent it folded again and it cracked again along the folds so I got a refund and used what I could to make something less than what I wanted.
    Turned out OK I guess but I wanted to hide the three piece body below the top piece which as you can see is nicely figured unlike the othe two pieces. These kits are supplied to be painted so the three or two piece bodies don't need to match and usually a thin veneer is topped for a one piece natural wood finish but I don't have the tools for that and didn't want to hide the top piece.

    http://

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  • rapidh32
    replied
    you have created some beautiful cues, it is good to see skilled craftsmen are still around

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  • vmax
    replied
    Originally Posted by rapidh32 View Post
    Do you have any idea how much weight was removed by taking off the lacquer/varnish, and how did the diametre change.
    I didn't measure it and I didn't weigh it, sorry Customer isn't a player, simply wanted his dad's cue as a momento.

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  • rapidh32
    replied
    Do you have any idea how much weight was removed by taking off the lacquer/varnish, and how did the diametre change.

    Leave a comment:


  • itsnoteasy
    replied
    Totally agree about the titanium ferrule, there is no magical properties to it. It stays shiny which is nice and is a harder metal so should last longer re tipping wise, although I have seen some butchered.
    Nice Post Vmax, good read thanks.

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  • vmax
    replied
    Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View Post
    How does pearwood play, closer to maple than ash?
    Well I've played with both of them over the past week, the 60 inch suits me lengthwise and I played very well with it even though it's lighter than I like, titanium ferrule didn't exclude any less deflection when using side, same aiming as with my stainless steel ferruled cue, same result so my conclusion is that it's simply the latest fashion which is what I expected.

    The 58..75 inch one with the 10.5mm buffalo horn ferrule also played very well, first poke a 48 break and those who belive you can't screw back as much as with a smaller ferrule/tip then all I can say is that the break ended with a massive overscrew that lost me position. The fact that the shaft is obviously a bit thicker doesn't seem to matter, feel is very good and it's true that it's easier to find the middle of the cue ball, the black buffalo horn ferrule helps with this as well.

    All in all pearwood works very well and it's simply the aesthetics of the timber one needs to get used to, but I believe that any decent hardwood will make a good cue, maple and ash are simply plentiful and cheap and don't possess any magical cue making properties.
    Last edited by vmax; 24 August 2022, 09:56 AM.

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  • vmax
    replied
    Finished these two yesterday, 6 coats of boiled linseed oil finish over the next couple of days should suffice.
    60 inch curly pearwood 3/4, wenge butt with coconut splice, 10mm titanium ferrle, 17 oz's, 20 inch bp
    58.75 inch curly pearwood 3/4, coconut butt, 10.5mm buffalo horn ferrule, 17.65 oz's, 18.75 inch bp

    http://

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  • vmax
    replied
    Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View Post
    How does pearwood play, closer to maple than ash?
    I've no idea at the moment, never played with one before and will give it a try when they're finished.

    Leave a comment:

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