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glueing splices

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  • glueing splices

    hi All
    wont be long before I am ready to cut and fit the ebony splices to my new cue. I have purchased glue called Titebond. This was recommended to me by a musical instrument maker. Has anyone used this before when making cues and if so is it strong enough and a glue that will last for many years.
    has anyone got suggestions for other glues that are used that are tries and tested.(does anyone know what the popular cue manufacturers use. Their cues last forever.)

    thanks all look forward to your reply

  • #2
    depends on which titebond, they make about 20 different versions. I wouldn't use a standard wood glue!!!

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    • #3
      Hee we go again..someone asking for help and yet again no one replies with a helpfull answer...cue makers wont tell you the secerets mate as it took them several years of trial and error so they are very reluctant to divulge..sorry i can help what glue you should use but if its any help i have used a powder glue that you mix with water called cascamite..

      thanks.
      Not played for 3 years and itching for a game....11-3-2017.

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      • #4
        Unlike my more knowledgeable cue maker above I have for thirty years used a standard wood glue from Homebase and never had the slightest problem with it though I give it a couple of days before undoing the g clamps, the original advert was the glued joint was stronger than the wood and that was good enough for me. I needed a cue made very quickly once and a major UK cue maker glued the splices with super glue and it was perfectly ok. I am happy to wait for all the shouts of you must be kidding.

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        • #5
          Originally Posted by bigandyg View Post
          Unlike my more knowledgeable cue maker above I have for thirty years used a standard wood glue from Homebase and never had the slightest problem with it though I give it a couple of days before undoing the g clamps, the original advert was the glued joint was stronger than the wood and that was good enough for me. I needed a cue made very quickly once and a major UK cue maker glued the splices with super glue and it was perfectly ok. I am happy to wait for all the shouts of you must be kidding.
          You must be kidding......................................lol
          Snooker Crazy - Cues and Equipment Sales Website
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          Snooker Crazy - You Tube Channel

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          • #6
            Nothing wrong with Titebond ... used it for years, versions 1, 2 and 3 and never an issue.
            Wood glues are really strong but they do rely on good surface preparation as with any other glue for the best bond and wiping down oily woods with alcohol helps.

            Some of the forces involved in acoustic guitar making far exceed anything a cue will have to handle, excluding sore losers of course and it's only being held together with good old quality wood glue.

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            • #7
              Originally Posted by JimB View Post
              Nothing wrong with Titebond ... used it for years, versions 1, 2 and 3 and never an issue.
              Wood glues are really strong but they do rely on good surface preparation as with any other glue for the best bond and wiping down oily woods with alcohol helps.

              Some of the forces involved in acoustic guitar making far exceed anything a cue will have to handle, excluding sore losers of course and it's only being held together with good old quality wood glue.
              I agree with above as I've used all sorts of hours over the years...

              From what I've repaired...cascamite would be the one for I wouldn't use but with good gluing surfaces it would be find, as well as super glue.

              I have used scotch glue, which is made from animal bones and what is on a lot of old cues, plus the Parris red glue cues..
              For that one you've always wanted...
              https://www.facebook.com/ninjacues/

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              • #8
                Titebond 2 or 3 is perfect for any type of wood but the surfaces must be prepared properly, smooth and flat and rub down with white spirit to remove any oily desposits, leave an hour to dry and off you go. Don't skimp on the glue though as any excess is easy to remove.
                You will find that getting that first clamp in place is your biggest problem if your splices are too exact a size, 10mm over size them so they overlap the shaft by 5mm each side.
                I cut my splices into 35mm X 20mm X 500/600mm lengths, plane and fine sand the 35mm faces, which are the surfaces to be glued, and cut them into wedges with a bandsaw along the 20mm side at 2mm to 18mm which gives me 36mm at the end of the butt. I don't waste a lot of wood doing it this way but the clamps at the tip of the splices have to be carefully applied to avoid cracking the wood.

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                • #9
                  Can get some creep with certain glues. I've used titebond with no problems.
                  I know a lot of cue maker use polyurethane glues like gorilla but it's very messy and it does expand.
                  "Don't think, feel"

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