My Cue gets sticky

[Boxy]

Any oil i can use?

[Sam147]

Hey Boxy

Raw linseed oil is a good oil to use on the cue shaft.

What i usually do every three to four months is i wipe the shaft with a damp cloth, then buff it dry followed by soaking the shaft over night in raw linseed oil.

In the morning, i'd wipe again with a clean cloth till all the oil residues have been removed, then with a damp cloth & buff dry... Whenever it gets sticky during play, i'd wipe with a damp cloth then buff dry and i always make sure i wash my hands before playing

[trevs1]

Any oil i can use?

What cue have you got, and, what type of finish is currently on it???

If you can let us know these details, you'll get far more accurate help.

As said above, if you use a damp cloth, followed by a dry cloth, it should feel a LOT better, but, if it doesn't, I'd assume the finish on the cue is quite poor and would need sorting properly.

It's a very difficult thing to advise on without the knowledge of what it is we're dealing with to be honest.

[MrRottweiler]

Alwasy wash your hands before playing too. This removes grease/sweat and will allow the cue to move more smoothly.

[Boxy]

Where can i get this oil?

[Wity]

As Trev asked.. what cue with what finish is it?

Pretty pointless applying oil if it's a graphite or one that has a lacquered or varnished finish.

[Boxy]

It isnt graphite. I think it was varnished. But i think it's all been remove due to sanding

[Wity]

Sand it again only lightly if need be just make sure you've got rid of all the varnish and am back to bare wood and have as smooth a finish as you can by using very fine sandpaper to finish. In doing so you may find as I did with a couple of old cues that the colour gets a bit blotchy when you get it all the lighter colour then you really are at the bare wood.

Apply Raw Linseed oil with a paper tissue and let it soak in overnight. Make sure it's Raw not boiled or whatever It takes longer to dry but as it has no dryers added it does the job best.You can buy it at most B+Q type places or ebay if your missus wont go there for you

Repeat the coating four or five times over a week or two. Wipe it each time it's dried with clean tissue and lightly use grade 0000 wire wool (Send her indoors down B + Q again (keep her fit ) on it to ensure it stays smooth and doesn't pick up any dirt or such that may come from the tissue or possibly even in the oil. Dont worry about applying too much oil as the wood will only soak up so much.

By then assuming you should have a ultra smooth finish and you can leave it at that or add a coating of wax. Pure Beeswax is prefered my many . (Tell the missus you'll buy some off ebay she'll thank you for the rest ) Doubt she'd find pure beeswax in B +Q anyways.

Nick her best cotton bloomers and buff the wax then buff it some more .

If you dont apply wax and am happy with the finish you can possibly get it better still by burnishing it with leather. I've just done this to a shaft and I cant quite tell the difference maybe it's improved maybe not. My son reckons it's better but anyways it's done no harm.

By Burnishing I mean effectively polish it with leather. I used the inside of a leather belt. Apparently the friction seals the poures in the wood.

Other oils and polishes can be used but Linseed and beeswax is sorta traditional and used by most. Burnishing ? I dunno. P'raps Trevor could lay some light on it. I got the idea off some Yanks talking about Pool cues.

[Boxy]

Legendary post! Thanks alot mate!

well, my new cue
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/showt...2406#post72406

Is pure wood, not varnished. This is smooth but i cannt adjust to it, i miss pots and feel embarrassed. What do you suggest?

[Wity]

Do you grow tomatoes?

Just been looking at that from another post of yours. It's alright but not worth the £70 they are asking. Put it like this Snooker Loopy on ebay (Mathew Couch) sells a very simlar cue except his are hand spliced. At auction they go for less than a tenner usually, add his £15 delivery charge and buy a simlar case off ebay for about £15 all in and your just over half the price of the KCE one.

I had one off Snooker Loopy, (Before i signed up here and got an education ) The finish was not varnish, but thats all I could really say on it's good side. The coloured veneers were i'm sure pieces of plastic and the snakewood splice was too. Theres many a cue out there like that, imported from china badged with an English sounding name and even at £10 apiece theres a profit in them.

However at the end of the day theres many a ton plus breaker playing with rubbish cues it's kinda like an armchair as i've said before, have you ever watched Fraiser? Think of the old armchair Fraisiers old man parks his rear in and the hand made italian leather designer thing Frasier had to demote to the storage room. They both do the same job but the old man can only fall asleep in the one.

[Boxy]

Would you stick with the old cue cos you know you can play well with it?

[Sam147]

Hi Boxy

I believe u should ask yourself why did u switch cues in the first place?

If u can answer that, u'll probably know which cue u should stick with... Most players would stick to one cue for a number of years before they have to change it but at one point they would have to change to another cue either because they've become uncomfortable with it, it's damaged beyond repair or simply because they wanna try something new...

Find out why u've switched cues & u'll realise which one u should stick with for a few years to come

[Boxy]

The stickyness was annoying me haha ill sort that and stick with my old cue. Im aiming for a 40 break today in practice

[Sam147]

Good on u Boxy Go 4 it

May the powers be with u

[Boxy]

And luck Thanks for all your help guys. Appreciated!