When to change cue tip?

[cueman]

Just interested in everyones thoughts over when they change their cue tip? What is the overall deciding factor, is it because it is worn down, has it become too hard/soft or some other reason?

I ask because its not really a set time to change, a player in my club asked me this and I didn't have a definitive answer and so got me thinking.

[trevs1]

I'd advise a tip needs changing when it has virtually lost its side wall.

What I mean by that is this:

If you look at a new tip, as it would appear on a cue before it is shaped at all, you'd see it has a definite domed (or curved) top surface and a vertical edge (or side wall) at 90 degrees to the part which is glued onto the top of the shaft.

This side wall offers some level of guidance for when the tip should be changed.
When a tip is suffering from wear, the side wall becomes smaller and smaller in height. At the point where it's almost getting to the ferrule edge (so there's hardly any visible side wall left), it needs to be replaced.
This is because there's very little tip to cushion the impact of the shot, and, the tip is more likely to tear if a mis-cue occurs, as the thin edge of the remaining tip is easily nipped off through poor striking of the white.

What can also happen if tips are allowed to wear to this low level regularly is this:

The edge of the ferrule can become slightly rounded, as the contact between white and tip is actually very slightly catching the ferrule also, wearing the edge of the brass. you'lll be able to see if this is happening to your own cue by looking closely at the ferrule top, where you'll notice a slightly rounded top edge, instead of a very sharp 90 degree corner.

This problem is not the end of the world mind, but, what it can lead to is ineffective bonding of any subsequent tips, as the edge of the tip doesn't completely meet with the outer edge of the ferrule, due to it being rounded. The only way to overcome this would be to grind the ferrule down a millimetre or two, or to replace the ferrule altogether, which in istelf can lead to problems, unless whoever is doing it is very good at what they're doing.

So, to sum it up, when the side wall of the tip is virtually gone...Change it.

Apologies for the long winded post, I guess you could read it again if you suffer from insomnia...

[craigslater]

Hi Trev

the ferrule on my cue is slightly off centre as on one side it is slightly cutting into the wood at the top off my shaft, would you suggest a new ferrule or someone having a look at it?

With reference to the side walls, when putting a new tip on a cue how much side wall would you suggest having so its not to far to the ferrule but not to much so the tip is soft or spongey?

Thanks mate

[Argee1977]

I've changed over from Blue Diamonds to Elkmasters recently due to the tips mushrooming and the sidewalls disintegrating, its a pain changing the tip weekly, but it has to be done as the tip resembles an accordian at times due to this problem.

[Wity]

If your changing tips that often get a talisman soft. Slightly harder but they keep their shape great.

[Argee1977]

If your changing tips that often get a talisman soft. Slightly harder but they keep their shape great.

I think it was just a bad batch, i bought 5 of them, used 3 and they all fell apart after shaping, stuck an elkmaster on 3 days ago, shaped it and its perfect now.

[jimmymoller]

you change the tip when it is either to small, you dont like it and or its falling of (which it shouldnt)

[MrRottweiler]

I think it was just a bad batch, i bought 5 of them, used 3 and they all fell apart after shaping, stuck an elkmaster on 3 days ago, shaped it and its perfect now.

I had the same problem the last time I re-tipped. All tip boxes will have a few 'duds' in them which I was unlucky enough to find out and which is why its best to have a handfull of them at the ready. Like you Argee1977, one tip I put on crumbled away literally in seconds when I was shaping it.