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Damm i need my own workshop. Not that i could create anything close to what you have. You do like a clamp tower it seems as well With the dodgy splice might be cool to try a small badge/plate etc with your intials or something there? Not sure how practical it would be or easy to do. Interesting watch and shall look forward to the finished article :snooker:
great video (not heard the music as I am at work muted but will have a listen when I get home ) thanks for putting it up.
good work and a nice looking cue
what was the reason for not trying ash or maple to start with?
Oh sorry, I forgot to mention that: Ash and maple are not available here in Finland with reasonable price tag. And ordering that long pieces for 1pc cue from overseas would also be way too expensive. So, that is why I wanted to try out birch wood. That is quite expensive here too, but still ok for hobbyist who's tinkering just for fun.
Oh sorry, I forgot to mention that: Ash and maple are not available here in Finland with reasonable price tag. And ordering that long pieces for 1pc cue from overseas would also be way too expensive. So, that is why I wanted to try out birch wood. That is quite expensive here too, but still ok for hobbyist who's tinkering just for fun.
Thanks for your nice comments.
I thought it may have been something like that.
Do you find the birch has similar characteristics (feel, handling, playing) to ash/maple/other?
I find birch wood to be very very close to maple. Very smooth, stiffer than ash. I thinned the shaft a lot more than I expected beforehand to get the cue to feel "alive". So far the cue is too light, and to properly estimate it's performance, when more power is added to the shot, is difficult at this point. But, I strongly assume (and hope) that it will be quite reactive - me holding the cue being the biggest issue.
Very nice first attempt there, but in future use wood glue, not epoxy and place two small weights in the butt before glueing on the splices by drilling a couple of 12mm holes about an inch apart about half way up the splice and filling with lead plugs. Then you only need to drill about 120mm from the end for the final weight to balance it.
I use a 75mm length of 10mm diameter threaded stainless steel bar which weighs about an ounce and a half, cut a slot in one end and then screw into a 9.5mm diameter hole in the end of the butt filled with epoxy.
Or you could cut a slot in the splice with your router to add the weight before glueing on the splices, the choice is yours.
Must try some birch myself, beech is very good also if you can get some, planes beautifully with very little tear and is also a tad stiffer than maple.
Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair
Thanks a lot for your tips vmax!! Can you name any wood glue that is suitable for the job with hard oily woods, please. I'm not very familiar with wood glues and glueing, so what should it say in the bottle? Would Titebond III work fine? Your suggestion Sir, please!
I find birch wood to be very very close to maple. Very smooth, stiffer than ash. I thinned the shaft a lot more than I expected beforehand to get the cue to feel "alive". So far the cue is too light, and to properly estimate it's performance, when more power is added to the shot, is difficult at this point. But, I strongly assume (and hope) that it will be quite reactive - me holding the cue being the biggest issue.
Really liked the video so thanks for that.
Have you tried taping a piece of lead etc to the shaft and played with it then to see how it reacts? Might be worth a go to see.
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