Should you use 0000 grit steel wool to clean your cue?

[blahblah01]

I did assume I would get it thinned down a bit, but was prudent and thought give it a few months....

I don't see the need\point tbh and it could get very whippy?

[Shockerz]

I did assume I would get it thinned down a bit, but was prudent and thought give it a few months....

I don't see the need\point tbh and it could get very whippy?

Yep. Seen a lot of cues ruined when they are thinned out, especially old ones which is a shame.

If it was a smidge then I'd do it but dropping from an 11mm to a 9.5 doesn't work for me as too risky.

[blahblah01]

Yep, it's really old ie badge has almost totally faded, and I REALLY like the "hit".

I just need to find a Tip that works with it (which I think I may have) and a finish.

Once I have sorted those out, I may get it tidied up by a Pro....

[Shockerz]

Yep, it's really old ie badge has almost totally faded, and I REALLY like the "hit".

I just need to find a Tip that works with it (which I think I may have) and a finish.

Once I have sorted those out, I may get it tidied up by a Pro....

I've got a few old cues that play well but aren't standard.

My old man's got one that must be over 70 years old with no name and it's a great cue, he's 80 this year and has had it since he was a nipper but no badge.

[blahblah01]

Believably so, the hit is so different and lush lol.

I had a hit of the Maple\Walnut veneer one Perdon Newbury(?) and it feels liked a piece of wood after mine.

Ninja is onto a Pear one soon, I believe.

[Ninja.cues]

Believably so, the hit is so different and lush lol.

I had a hit of the Maple\Walnut veneer one Perdon Newbury(?) and it feels liked a piece of wood after mine.

Ninja is onto a Pear one soon, I believe.

Yes I will be making my first one for a friend, pear cue but not started it yet as I only had the wood cut a month ago...

[vmax]

I haven't had to clean the shaft of my cue since I started wearing a cue glove all the time. Obviously the shaft is never in contact with my skin so doesn't pick up any dirt, I don't over chalk, use grey Master chalk which isn't as visually apparent as green but is rubbed off by the glove anyway so that isn't a problem either.
Once a year I clean the butt with a cloth dampened with methylated spirit, let it dry and apply some gunstock oil, leave overnight to dry, rub very gently with 0000 wire wool and apply a second coat, leave overnight to dry and it's nice and grippy.

One has to think about what timber your butt is made from, how naturally oily it is since that dictates how much oil it will absorb when finishing. When making a cue with an oily hardwood I have to clean the surfaces to be glued with methylated spirit to evaporate the natural oil and then dampen with water to enable the water based wood glue to penetrate the timber for a good bond. The same is true when applying the oil finish, wipe over with meths and let dry before applying any finishing oil or the natural oil in the timber will prevent absorption of the finishing oil.

As I have a lathe I have just ordered some friction polish for finishing butts. This has a high shellac content and can be applied to bare timber as it spins on the lathe and the friction/heat dries it immediately for a high gloss french polish finish in seconds, used by and recomended by wood turners so I thought I'd give it a go.

I can't recomend using a glove highly enough, I know some of you think it looks 9 bally and therefore naff, not really snooker, but you have friction free smooth cueing all the time and your shaft doesn't get dirty.

[Shockerz]

I haven't had to clean the shaft of my cue since I started wearing a cue glove all the time. Obviously the shaft is never in contact with my skin so doesn't pick up any dirt, I don't over chalk, use grey Master chalk which isn't as visually apparent as green but is rubbed off by the glove anyway so that isn't a problem either.
Once a year I clean the butt with a cloth dampened with methylated spirit, let it dry and apply some gunstock oil, leave overnight to dry, rub very gently with 0000 wire wool and apply a second coat, leave overnight to dry and it's nice and grippy.

One has to think about what timber your butt is made from, how naturally oily it is since that dictates how much oil it will absorb when finishing. When making a cue with an oily hardwood I have to clean the surfaces to be glued with methylated spirit to evaporate the natural oil and then dampen with water to enable the water based wood glue to penetrate the timber for a good bond. The same is true when applying the oil finish, wipe over with meths and let dry before applying any finishing oil or the natural oil in the timber will prevent absorption of the finishing oil.

As I have a lathe I have just ordered some friction polish for finishing butts. This has a high shellac content and can be applied to bare timber as it spins on the lathe and the friction/heat dries it immediately for a high gloss french polish finish in seconds, used by and recomended by wood turners so I thought I'd give it a go.

I can't recomend using a glove highly enough, I know some of you think it looks 9 bally and therefore naff, not really snooker, but you have friction free smooth cueing all the time and your shaft doesn't get dirty.

What's the shellac finish like if you clean the butt with a damp cloth?

[vmax]

What's the shellac finish like if you clean the butt with a damp cloth?

I've used french polish in the past (shellac) and cleaning with a damp cloth doesn't affect the polish at all, but like all finishes it will fade with constant handling but lasts a lot longer and is glossier than just an oil finish.

[Ninja.cues]

I've used french polish in the past (shellac) and cleaning with a damp cloth doesn't affect the polish at all, but like all finishes it will fade with constant handling but lasts a lot longer and is glossier than just an oil finish.

You can bring the shine back with a cream cleaner or cutting compound like T-cut.

[Shockerz]

I've used french polish in the past (shellac) and cleaning with a damp cloth doesn't affect the polish at all, but like all finishes it will fade with constant handling but lasts a lot longer and is glossier than just an oil finish.

Thanks.

I've just stuck some on and will give it a go with a damp cloth in a week. Just trying a few different finishes and how they are affecting by cleaning with a damp rag compared to what it says on the label!!

[Markyboy147]

I'd be careful with the 0000 grade wool, I didn't concentrate on my MW cue and completely scuffed the wood just below the ferrule, it was heartbreaking.

[Dairoberts1927]

I use 0000 grade wire wool which I bought a bundle of for about £4.50, I use it as much as i need to tbh, never noticed it doing anything to my cue other than taking the dirt off, leaves a real smooth surface.
I'm currently searching for a new cue and have every intention of using it on that too, I have been told by others in the club that I shouldn't use it, never seen a reason why not.

[Shockerz]

I use 0000 grade wire wool which I bought a bundle of for about £4.50, I use it as much as i need to tbh, never noticed it doing anything to my cue other than taking the dirt off, leaves a real smooth surface.
I'm currently searching for a new cue and have every intention of using it on that too, I have been told by others in the club that I shouldn't use it, never seen a reason why not.

If you use it regularly over a long period of time it will take wood off, that was the point of the thread. An occasional time then fair enough but every session over a few years and you will lose the taper.

You certainly wouldn't notice anything over a short period of time as it takes very little off but even a little is something and it is more than the grime.

[blahblah01]

The wool can be used very softly......